Bathroom Vanity Stone Benchtop Costs NSW 2026 - Get Free Quotes

Stone Vanity Top Costs in NSW

A stone vanity top is a cut and polished slab fitted to a bathroom cabinet, with a cutout for the basin and holes drilled for the tapware. In NSW a single vanity runs $450 to $900 supplied and installed, and a double $800 to $2,000. That puts it at roughly $600 to $1,800 per square metre depending on the material you choose. It is the same trade and the same process as a kitchen benchtop, scaled down. What surprises most people is that scaling it down does not scale the price down proportionally. The reason is worth understanding before you start collecting quotes.

The reason is fixed cost. A fabricator buys from a full slab and sends someone to template. They then occupy a saw and a polishing bench, and dispatch two people to install a piece that weighs less than forty kilograms. Those overheads are much the same for a half square metre vanity as for a five square metre kitchen. The practical minimum in NSW sits around $400 to $600, and a small vanity often lands close to it.

That produces one clear piece of advice worth acting on. If you are doing anything else in stone within the next few months, whether a kitchen, a laundry bench or a second bathroom, order the vanity at the same time. Ordered together the vanity typically costs $300 to $700 rather than $450 to $900. The template visit, the freight and the installation crew are already committed. Grouping with a kitchen benchtop installation is the most common version of this.

Material choice in a bathroom is a different calculation from a kitchen. Heat is irrelevant, so the materials that lose out in a kitchen are back in play. What matters instead is what gets spilled on a vanity. The honest list runs to perfume, hairspray, nail polish and its remover, toothpaste, hair dye, makeup and cleaning products. Several of those will mark a porous or acid sensitive stone faster than anything in a kitchen ever would.

Engineered stone is no longer an option, which changes the market from where it sat a few years ago. Quartz vanity tops were the default in Australian bathrooms. They can no longer be supplied or installed anywhere in the country following the national prohibition that took effect on 1 July 2024. Existing quartz vanity tops are lawful and can stay, and the background sits under quartz benchtop alternatives.

The basin decision is the one that most affects both the look and the fabrication. An undermount basin gives the cleanest result. It requires the cutout edge to be polished and the basin bonded in the workshop. An above counter basin sits on an uncut top with only tap holes drilled, which is the cheapest fabrication of all. A semi recessed basin needs a shaped cutout at the front edge and is the fiddliest.

Timing matters if the bathroom is being renovated rather than just refreshed. A vanity top is templated after the cabinet is installed and levelled, and fitted before the plumber connects the basin and tapware. It therefore sits in the middle of a sequence that also involves waterproofing, tiling and a licensed plumber. Where the whole room is being redone, that sequence is worth planning under a broader bathroom renovation.

From here the guide works through what the installation includes and the materials that suit a wet area. It then works through basin and tap options, waterproofing and licensing, sizing and wall hung vanities, and care and sealing. Sydney and regional pricing follow at the end.

What Vanity Top Installation Covers

The quoted figure covers the slab material, the template visit, and the cutting and polishing. It also covers the basin cutout, the tap holes, delivery and installation. Most fabricators price that as one figure. It is the number you should be comparing between quotes. Anything outside it, and there usually is something, should be listed as an exclusion rather than left for you to discover.

A template is taken once the vanity cabinet is installed, levelled and fixed to the wall. For a simple rectangular top against a straight wall, some fabricators will work from accurate measurements you supply. Any wall that is out of square, any return or any awkward corner needs a proper template. In an older Sydney bathroom with rendered brick walls, out of square is the norm rather than the exception.

Fabrication is the same process as for a kitchen, run at a smaller scale. The piece is cut on a bridge saw. The basin cutout is machined with radiused corners, so stress cannot concentrate at a sharp internal angle. The exposed edges are then profiled and polished, and any tap holes cut with a diamond tipped bit. All of it is done wet, both to cool the tooling and to suppress silica dust, which is a duty enforced by SafeWork NSW.

Undermount basins are bonded in the workshop rather than on site. The basin is aligned to the cutout and fixed with clips and adhesive. The assembly is then delivered as one unit. That means your basin needs to be purchased and available before fabrication starts, which catches people out when the basin is on back order.

Installation itself takes an hour or two. The top is dry fitted first and scribed to the wall if needed. It is then bedded on silicone, levelled, and sealed along the wall joint. On a wall hung vanity the fixing is checked more carefully. The cabinet is carrying the stone rather than the floor.

What is normally excluded is the plumbing at both ends. Disconnecting the old basin and tapware is licensed plumbing work rather than something the stone installer handles. So is connecting the new ones once the top is in. That sits under bathroom renovation plumbing, and it needs booking for the day after installation.

Removal of an old top is also usually a separate line, typically $150 to $400 depending on what it is and how it was fixed. A laminate top comes off easily, while a stone top bedded on silicone takes more care. An existing engineered stone top must be removed under dust controls, as permitted work on legacy material. Tiled vanity tops turn up in NSW bathrooms from the seventies and eighties. They are the messiest to remove and often reveal a backing board underneath that needs replacing.

Materials for a Bathroom

Marble is more at home in a bathroom than in a kitchen, and it is the material most people picture. The acids that cause it grief in a kitchen, being lemon, vinegar and wine, are largely absent here. It still etches, though the culprits shift to certain cleaning products, toothpaste and some cosmetics. A honed rather than polished finish hides marks well. The wider trade offs sit under marble benchtop installation.

Granite is the practical choice and the most forgiving. It is hard and resists scratching from dropped bottles and jewellery. Its crystalline pattern also hides water spotting and minor marks that would show on a plain surface. It is porous to varying degrees and wants an impregnating sealer every year or two, which takes about ten minutes on a piece this size. Detail sits under granite benchtop installation.

The fired surfaces are the low maintenance option and increasingly common in NSW bathrooms. They are non porous, so nothing stains and nothing needs sealing. They are also close to impossible to scratch. The trade off is edge fragility on thin slabs and a higher price, and they are covered under porcelain benchtop installation.

Solid surface acrylics deserve a serious look in a bathroom, more so than in a kitchen. They allow a basin to be fabricated as one continuous piece with the top, with no rim and no seam. Nothing collects in the join because there is no join, which makes it the easiest surface in existence to keep clean. They can also be sanded and repaired if scratched or burned by a hair straightener. The limitation is that they are softer than stone.

Timber vanity tops have become popular in NSW bathrooms and need honest expectations. Solid or laminated hardwood looks superb against matte black tapware and a vessel basin. It is also warm to the touch on a winter morning. It also lives in a wet room, so it needs a well maintained oil or sealer. It will not tolerate standing water sitting at the basin edge. Used with an above counter basin, so the timber never gets a puddle sitting on it, it works well.

Concrete and terrazzo appear in higher end and architect designed NSW bathrooms. Both are porous and want sealing, and both develop character rather than staying pristine. Both are also heavy. They are specialist products rather than off the shelf, and pricing reflects that.

Laminate remains entirely sensible in a rental, a secondary bathroom or a tight budget. Modern laminates carry convincing stone prints and much better moisture resistance than their predecessors. The vulnerable point in a bathroom is always the cutout edge around the basin, where water sitting against an unsealed core will eventually swell it. A comparison of the options sits under laminate versus stone benchtop comparison.

Whichever you pick, remember the piece is small enough that upgrading is cheap in absolute terms. The difference between an entry level granite and a good marble on a nine hundred millimetre vanity might be two hundred dollars. The same upgrade across a kitchen would be two thousand. A vanity is the one place where the material you actually want is usually affordable.

Basins and Cutouts

An undermount basin sits beneath the stone with the cutout edge exposed and polished. That gives the cleanest look and lets you wipe straight into the bowl. It is bonded in the workshop before delivery, so the basin must be on hand before fabrication. Expect $120 to $300 for the cutout, since the exposed edge has to be finished to the same quality as the top surface.

An above counter or vessel basin sits entirely on top of an uncut slab. That means no cutout at all and only a waste hole. It is the cheapest fabrication and the most flexible. You can change the basin later without touching the stone. The trade offs are cleaning around the base and the extra height it adds, which matters for the overall vanity height.

A semi recessed basin projects forward of the cabinet and drops partly into a shaped cutout at the front edge. It suits shallow bathrooms where cabinet depth is limited. That describes a great many Sydney apartment ensuites. It is the most demanding cutout to fabricate and prices accordingly.

A drop in or inset basin sits into a plain cutout with its rim resting on the stone. It is cheap, simple and reliable. The rim also covers any imperfection in the cut edge. The visible rim is the only real objection. On a busy family bathroom that is a small price for a robust arrangement.

An integrated basin, formed as one continuous piece with the top, is only possible in solid surface. There is no joint at all. That makes it the most hygienic option available and the easiest to clean. It is fabricated as a single assembly and priced as such.

Cutout corners are radiused for structural reasons rather than aesthetic ones, exactly as in a kitchen. A sharp internal corner concentrates stress and is where a crack will start. On a narrow vanity the strip of stone in front of the basin is already the weakest part of the piece. A fabricator cutting square corners on a vanity is creating a problem that will appear within a few years.

Double vanities need the basin spacing set before templating, and it is worth thinking about properly. Two basins on a fifteen hundred millimetre top leaves little usable bench between them. Eighteen hundred gives room for both people to have somewhere to put things down. If you are choosing between a double basin and a single with more bench space, most households who have lived with both prefer the bench.

Tap Holes and Tapware

Tap hole configuration has to be decided before fabrication, because the holes are core drilled in the workshop. The three standard arrangements are one hole for a mixer, three holes for a traditional set with separate hot and cold, and no holes at all. The last of those applies where the tapware is mounted on the wall. Each hole costs $40 to $100.

Wall mounted tapware is increasingly specified in NSW bathrooms and it changes the whole job. The vanity top needs no holes and is cheaper to fabricate. Cleaning is easier with nothing to work around, and the look is considerably cleaner. The catch is that the plumbing rough in must be positioned in the wall before tiling, so the decision has to be made very early and cannot be reversed without opening the wall.

Deck mounted tapware needs its position checked against the basin rather than assumed. The spout has to reach far enough over the bowl, and the handle needs clearance from the wall or the mirror above. A tap hole drilled thirty millimetres out will look wrong forever. Bring the tapware and the basin together at templating. The fabricator can then set the position with both in front of them.

Hole diameter is set by the tapware and varies more than people expect, commonly between thirty two and thirty five millimetres. A hole drilled to the wrong size cannot be made smaller. Give the fabricator the tapware specification sheet, or better, hand them the tap.

All tapware and plumbing products installed in Australia must carry WaterMark certification, which is the mandatory certification scheme for plumbing products. A licensed plumber will not install uncertified tapware. Imported fittings bought online frequently lack it. Checking before you buy avoids an awkward conversation on installation day.

Pop up wastes and bottle traps are worth considering at the same time. A bottle trap is visible under a wall hung vanity and is often specified in a finish matching the tapware. A standard trap hidden inside a floor standing cabinet can be whatever is cheapest. This is a small detail that reads as considered or overlooked.

All of the connection work is licensed plumbing rather than something the stone installer can do. In NSW, plumbing work must be performed by a licensed plumber, and the licence can be checked through NSW Fair Trading. The related trade work sits under plumbing services.

Wet Area and Plumbing Rules

Bathrooms are wet areas and are subject to waterproofing requirements that do not apply anywhere else in a home. The relevant Australian Standard covering waterproofing of domestic wet areas, published by Standards Australia, sets out where membranes are required, how far up walls they must extend and how junctions must be treated. It is referenced by the building rules rather than being advisory. None of it is optional.

For most vanity top replacements none of this is disturbed, which is the good news. Swapping a top on an existing cabinet does not touch the floor or wall membrane, provided the plumbing stays where it is. You are replacing a surface rather than altering the wet area.

It becomes relevant when the work goes further. Moving a vanity to a different wall, changing from a floor standing to a wall hung cabinet, or relocating the plumbing all involve opening the wall or floor. Any penetration through a membrane has to be resealed properly. Getting that wrong produces a leak that shows up in the room below or in the wall framing months later, and it sits under bathroom waterproofing.

Waterproofing in NSW is licensed work above a value threshold, and it is one of the trades where using someone qualified truly matters. Water damage from a failed membrane is among the most expensive problems in a home to fix. By the time it is visible, the framing, the flooring and often the ceiling below are involved. Current licence requirements and the licence check tool are published by NSW Fair Trading.

Plumbing is licensed work in NSW without any value threshold. Connecting a basin waste and tapware is therefore not a job for a handy relative. A licensed plumber issues the appropriate paperwork for notifiable work, and their work sits within the regulatory regime. That matters if something later fails. It is also the practical reality that most stone installers will simply not touch it.

Apartment bathrooms in Sydney carry an extra layer that is easy to overlook. Bathroom floors and the waterproof membrane are frequently common property under a strata scheme, even though the fittings inside are lot property. Alterations beyond a simple like for like swap may therefore need owners corporation approval. Most schemes also restrict noisy work to weekday hours and require notice before trades attend.

Where the whole room is coming out, the sequencing is worth understanding. The order runs demolition, plumbing rough in, waterproofing, tiling, cabinetry, vanity top, then fixtures and tapware. The membrane needs to cure before tiling starts. Compressing that sequence is where bathroom renovations go wrong. The detail is covered under bathroom tiling and the wider renovation pages.

Sizing, Height and Wall Hung Vanities

Standard vanity cabinet heights in Australia sit around eight hundred and fifty to nine hundred millimetres to the top of the bench, which is higher than the seven hundred and twenty millimetre benches common in older homes. Taller is generally more comfortable for adults. The trend over the past decade has been steadily upward. If you are replacing only the top, the height is already set by the cabinet.

An above counter basin changes that arithmetic and is the most common sizing mistake. A vessel basin adds its full height on top of the bench. Pairing one with a nine hundred millimetre cabinet puts the rim close to eleven hundred millimetres. That is uncomfortably high for most adults and unusable for children. Cabinets intended for above counter basins are usually made lower, at around seven hundred and fifty to eight hundred millimetres. This needs deciding before the cabinet is ordered.

Depth is dictated by the room more than by preference. Four hundred and sixty millimetres is a common vanity depth and five hundred and fifty is generous. A narrow Sydney bathroom or an apartment ensuite may only allow four hundred, which pushes you toward a semi recessed basin. Measure the swing of the door before committing to a deeper cabinet.

Wall hung vanities are the dominant look in current NSW bathrooms and they change the structural requirements. The cabinet and everything on it is carried by the wall, so fixing has to go into studs or into properly rated masonry anchors. On a stud wall a short timber block, called a noggin, is usually fixed between the studs at the height the cabinet will hang. This is decided at framing or before lining, not on installation day.

Stone adds real weight to a wall hung arrangement. Twenty millimetre granite runs around fifty five kilograms per square metre, so a fifteen hundred millimetre double vanity top is around forty five kilograms of stone before the basins, the cabinet and its contents. That is well within a properly fixed cabinet's capacity and well outside what a couple of plasterboard anchors will hold.

Upstands are worth considering where the vanity meets a wall. A small stone upstand of thirty to fifty millimetres removes the silicone line and protects the wall from splashes. It also looks tidier than tiling down to the bench. Worth coordinating at the same time is the mirror or shaving cabinet above, since its width and the height of its lower edge read best when set against the vanity rather than chosen separately. Both are inexpensive to plan together and awkward to fix afterwards.

Overhang beyond the cabinet is usually minimal on a vanity, commonly ten to twenty millimetres to create a shadow line. Larger overhangs are occasionally specified for a floating look but need support, exactly as in a kitchen. If your design has the stone projecting significantly past the cabinet, raise it at quoting stage.

Care, Sealing and Bathroom Stains

A bathroom bench faces a different chemical assault from a kitchen one, and the products that cause trouble are not the obvious ones. Nail polish remover, which is usually acetone, will dissolve a sealer. It can also mark solid surface. Hair dye stains porous stone quickly and permanently. Toothpaste containing whitening agents is mildly abrasive, and many bathroom cleaners are acidic enough to etch marble.

Sealing applies to natural stone only and the test takes half a minute. Put a few drops of water on the surface near the basin, wait five minutes and wipe it off. If the stone has darkened where the water sat, the sealer has worn thin and it is time to reapply. If the water still beads, you are fine.

Resealing a vanity is a job you can do yourself in ten minutes with a bottle from a hardware store, and on a piece this small it costs very little. Wipe it on and allow the stated dwell time. Buff off the residue and leave it a few hours before use. Doing it once a year around the basin, which is where wear concentrates, is enough for most bathrooms.

Porcelain, sintered stone and solid surface need no sealing at all. Anyone offering to seal them has misread the material. The same applies to an existing engineered stone vanity, which is non porous and takes no penetrating sealer. What those surfaces do benefit from is a wipe down with a pH neutral cleaner rather than a general purpose spray, since some bathroom cleaners leave a film that dulls a polished finish over time.

Water spotting around the tap base is the most common complaint on a dark vanity top and it is usually not damage. Sydney's water supply is relatively soft compared with several other Australian capitals, so heavy limescale is less common here than people expect. A dull ring is more often a worn sealer or an etch mark than a mineral deposit. Attacking it with an acidic descaler will make marble considerably worse.

Bathrooms in regional NSW on tank or bore water need a different eye. Bore water in parts of the Central West and the Riverina carries high mineral content and does leave real deposits. Rainwater, by contrast, is naturally soft and slightly acidic. Ask the fabricator what cleaner is safe for your specific stone and keep that product under the sink rather than reaching for whatever is on special.

Silicone at the wall junction and around a drop in basin is the item that ages first. It discolours, shrinks and eventually lifts. A failed seal at a basin then lets water into the cabinet below, where it swells the carcass. Cutting it out and re running it every few years in a neutral cure, mould resistant silicone costs almost nothing. It prevents a considerably larger problem, and the work often overlaps with shower regrouting and leak repairs.

If the top does get chipped or etched, it can be repaired rather than replaced. A colour matched fill and a polish costs $150 to $300, which is a fraction of a new top. A small vanity is quick work for a restoration technician. That sits under stone benchtop repairs and polishing.

What Affects the Cost

The minimum charge is the dominant factor on a small vanity and the one to understand first. Buying from a slab, templating, occupying workshop time and sending an installation crew are all fixed. Together they produce a floor of roughly $400 to $600 in NSW. Below a certain size, making the piece smaller barely reduces the price.

Above that floor, the material you choose sets the band. Granite is the value option and solid surface sits slightly above it, with marble and porcelain higher again. Within each material the grade varies enormously. On a piece this small the absolute difference between grades is modest, which is why upgrading is often worth it here.

Width and whether it is a double changes the material and the handling. A nine hundred millimetre single is a one person lift. An eighteen hundred double in stone needs two people and more careful transport. The material roughly doubles but the fixed costs do not. A double is therefore better value per square metre than a single.

The basin type is the biggest fabrication variable. An above counter basin needs only a waste hole and a drop in needs a plain cutout. An undermount needs a polished cutout and workshop bonding, and a semi recessed needs a shaped front edge. Those four sit at noticeably different price points.

Tap holes, upstands and edge profile each add modest amounts that accumulate. Three tap holes rather than one, a fifty millimetre upstand and a shaped edge profile can together add a couple of hundred dollars. That is meaningful on a job which started at six hundred. None is unreasonable, but they should appear as lines rather than as a surprise.

Removal and access add labour rather than material. Taking out an old tiled or stone top runs $150 to $400. An apartment with a booked lift, or a Sydney terrace with no parking, adds time before any work begins. Second floor bathrooms in older homes add a stair carry to that, which matters more with stone than people expect. Mention all of it when you enquire so it is priced rather than discovered.

Bundling is the single biggest lever available to you. Ordered alongside a kitchen, a laundry bench or a second vanity, the same top drops to $300 to $700. The template visit, the freight and the crew are all shared. The laundry version sits under laundry stone benchtop installation. The health and safety duties attached to fabrication are administered by SafeWork NSW.

Vanity Top Costs Across Sydney

Material and basin type move a Sydney vanity price far more than the postcode does, so an identical granite top costs much the same in Parramatta as in Mosman. The metropolitan variation shows up in the housing stock instead, which is worth knowing when you compare quotes. Apartments and ensuites in the inner and eastern suburbs run narrower cabinets and more semi recessed basins, while the north shore and northern beaches carry more double vanities and more marble.

The figure you land on reflects specification rather than suburb. A single granite top with a drop in basin and one tap hole sits at the bottom everywhere in Sydney, and an eighteen hundred millimetre marble double with two undermount basins and an upstand sits at the top everywhere. Sydney's advantage is the number of fabricators, which makes three comparable quotes realistic on even a small job. Apartment owners should raise lift access and strata work hour restrictions early, and check whether the building wants evidence of the contractor's public liability insurance.

Vanity Top Costs in Regional NSW

The fabrication does not change once you leave Sydney, but freight and minimum charges do. Newcastle, the Hunter, the Central Coast and the Illawarra all have established stone yards. Pricing there tracks Sydney closely. Further out, a small vanity ordered on its own can be close to uneconomic, because a delivery run for a forty kilogram piece costs the same as one for a full kitchen.

The advice for regional households is to avoid ordering a vanity top in isolation wherever you can. Ask the yard whether they have a scheduled run through your district and when it next falls. Slotting a small piece into an existing delivery costs a fraction of a dedicated trip. Coordinating with a neighbour doing similar work is a surprisingly effective approach in a smaller town.

Inspecting the actual slab matters less for a vanity than for a kitchen, which works in your favour. A piece this small takes a fraction of a slab. The dramatic veining variation that makes slab viewing essential for a large island matters much less here. Ordering from a sample is usually safe, though for a bookmatched marble feature it is still worth a look.

Bathrooms outside the metropolitan area tend to be larger and to run more double vanities, which improves the value equation. A double top uses roughly twice the material but carries the same fixed costs. The price per square metre therefore falls. If you are choosing between two singles in separate bathrooms and one double, ordering all three pieces together is the efficient move.

Holiday homes along the coast and in the Southern Highlands need the same attention to silicone that any bathroom does, with the added risk that nobody is there to notice. A failed seal at a basin can leak quietly for months into a cabinet in an empty house. A look under the vanity each time you arrive takes a minute and saves a carcass.

What to Look Out For

Start by checking whether the quote includes the basin cutout and the tap holes, because a bare rate per square metre often does not. On a job where the material is only a few hundred dollars, cutouts and holes can add half again. That is not a rounding error. Ask for a single total covering the piece as you actually want it.

Confirm who is doing the plumbing and when. The stone installer will not connect your basin or tapware. If nobody has booked a licensed plumber for the following day, you will have a handsome new top and no running water. This is the most common gap in a vanity job.

Make sure your basin and tapware are on site before fabrication. An undermount basin is bonded in the workshop, and tap holes are drilled to the specific tapware. A back ordered basin stops the whole job. Buy the fixtures first and the stone second, not the other way round.

Watch for square cutout corners. A radius at each internal corner of the basin cutout is what stops a crack forming through the narrow strip of stone at the front. It is a reliable indicator of whether the fabricator knows what they are doing. It costs them nothing to do properly.

Anyone quoting a wall hung vanity without asking what is behind the wall deserves a second question. A stone topped wall hung cabinet is heavy and needs fixing into studs, a noggin or rated masonry anchors. A fitter who plans to use plasterboard anchors is creating a hazard. Ask what they intend to fix into.

Treat an offer to seal porcelain, sintered stone or solid surface as a sign the operator does not know the material. None of them is porous and none takes a penetrating sealer. Natural granite, marble and limestone are the surfaces that actually benefit from one.

One more thing: an offer of engineered stone should stop the conversation. The manufacture, supply, processing and installation of engineered stone has been prohibited nationally since 1 July 2024, so a quartz vanity top cannot lawfully be fabricated or fitted regardless of how it is described. Existing quartz vanities are lawful and can stay. Licence checks and trader obligations are published by NSW Fair Trading.

What to Look for in a Quote in NSW

A good vanity top quote names the material, colour and thickness, states the finished dimensions, lists the basin cutout and each tap hole, notes any upstand and edge profile, and gives one total for supply, fabrication, delivery and installation. It should also state exclusions plainly. That normally means plumbing connection, removal of the old top and any cabinetry work. That detail is what makes two quotes comparable rather than merely different.

Send each fabricator the same set of details. Send the cabinet width and depth, whether it is floor standing or wall hung, and the basin and tapware models. Add your preferred material and photographs of the bathroom, including the wall the vanity sits against. Quotes built on different assumptions are not worth comparing.

Four questions are worth putting to every fabricator first. When can you template and how long until installation, is the basin bonded in the workshop or fitted on site, are the tap holes drilled to my specific tapware, and is removal of the old top included. Those four answers sort the operators quickly.

Bundle wherever you possibly can, because on a job this small it is the difference between good value and poor value. A second bathroom, a laundry bench, a kitchen or even a windowsill added to the same order spreads the fixed costs across more work. The marginal cost of each extra piece is low. Ask for each item priced as its own line so you can see what each is adding and drop anything that does not earn its place.

Look at the scope and the operator before you look at the price. A quote that includes the cutout, the holes, removal and a properly radiused basin cutout is worth more than a cheaper one that leaves those open, because each becomes a variation later. Posting the job on The Quote Yard lets several NSW fabricators respond to the same brief so you can weigh material, timing and total together, and if the rest of the room is being done at the same time it is worth pricing under bathroom renovation costs as a whole. Your rights to workmanship carried out with due care and skill are set out by the ACCC.