Box Gutter Repair Service Cost WA 2026 - Complete Pricing Guide

Box Gutter Repair Costs in Western Australia for 2026

Box gutter work is priced by how hard the gutter is to reach, not by how much metal has to be replaced. At the maintenance end, clearing a box gutter and inspecting it properly is $220 to $480 and should happen twice a year on any house that has one. Resealing joints, laps and the junction with a sump runs $65 to $150 a metre. A new sump or rainhead is $380 to $950. Retrofitting an overflow where none exists is $450 to $1,400 and is often the most valuable money spent on the whole roof.

At the replacement end, relining with a liquid applied membrane runs $120 to $280 a metre and avoids lifting roofing. Replacing the gutter in metal is $180 to $420 a metre, and an eight metre run with its sump renewed comes in at $2,800 to $7,500. Where water has already come through a ceiling, add $900 to $3,500 for the interior, which is ceiling repairs and plastering and gyprock repairs.

Western Australian housing carries box gutters in four recurring places. Rendered parapet walls, which are everywhere on contemporary Perth homes and hide a gutter behind them. Zero lot line boundary walls on narrow survey-strata lots, where one side of the roof drains into a gutter against the neighbour. Flat or low-pitched second storeys drain into one as well. And skillion additions or alfresco roofs butting into a main roof plane.

Two local conditions then decide how a failure plays out. Perth rainfall arrives in concentrated winter bursts from cold fronts, never evenly through the year, so a gutter copes for months and then meets its design storm in July. And most Perth properties dispose of stormwater on site into soakwells instead of piping it to a street drain, so an overloaded system puts water beside the house. Capacity work is soakwell installation and stormwater drainage plumbing.

What a Box Gutter Is and Where WA Houses Have Them

A box gutter carries roof water inside the line of the building instead of at its edge, in a rectangular metal tray, and that single difference is why it matters more than an eaves gutter. An eaves gutter hangs off the fascia at the perimeter. If it overflows, the water falls outside the building, down a wall and into the garden, and the worst result is damp brickwork and a wet garden bed. A box gutter sits between two roof planes, or between a roof plane and a wall, with the house directly below it. If it overflows, the water goes into the roof space, through the insulation, into the ceiling and out through a light fitting.

Four situations put one on a Western Australian house. A parapet wall, meaning a wall that continues up past the roof line to give a flat-topped facade, needs a gutter behind it because the roof can no longer drain over an edge. A zero lot line boundary wall on a narrow lot does the same thing against the neighbour. A flat or low pitched second storey usually drains into one. And any addition, alfresco roof or carport whose roof butts into the side of an existing roof plane creates a valley that is often built as a box gutter.

Working out whether you have one is straightforward from the ground. A facade that finishes in a flat horizontal line with no visible gutter or eave is the first sign. Look for a rainhead, the open metal box fixed to a wall with a downpipe leaving its base, since a rainhead almost always means a box gutter feeding it. A downpipe emerging from a wall, where no eaves gutter feeds it, is the third.

The reason this matters for budgeting is simple. A house with box gutters has an ongoing maintenance item that a house with only eaves gutters does not, and ignoring it has a much worse failure mode. Routine clearing is gutter cleaning work and the trade for the gutter itself is roof and gutter plumbing.

Why Box Gutters Fail

Box gutters fail for a short list of reasons and almost all of them are predictable enough to catch on a scheduled inspection. Blockage leads the list by a wide margin. Leaves, tennis balls, bird nests, roof-mounted solar fixings, broken tiles and the gravel from a nearby roof all end up in a box gutter, and because nobody can see into it from the ground it accumulates for years. The gutter then holds standing water, which does two things: it accelerates corrosion from the inside, and it removes the freeboard the gutter needs during heavy rain.

Corrosion comes second and starts at the lowest point, under whatever debris has been sitting there. Galvanised steel box gutters installed before the move to zinc-aluminium coatings are the usual casualties, and the first pinhole appears in the sole of the gutter where it has been wet continuously. One pinhole in a box gutter is a leak directly into the building.

Then come the design and workmanship faults, which are the ones owners cannot do anything about except find them. A gutter too narrow or too shallow for its catchment. Insufficient fall, or a fall running the wrong way after a roof was altered. A sump or a downpipe sized too small for the flow. Joints and laps riveted and sealed when they should have been lapped in the direction of flow. And missing overflow provision, which turns every blockage into an interior leak.

Movement and later alteration finish off the list. A parapet that has cracked and is letting water in behind the gutter where it cannot drain. A solar array installed across a box gutter with fixings through the sole. An addition that increased the catchment feeding an unchanged gutter. Air conditioning plant placed in or beside the gutter. Each of those is a change nobody connected to the roof plumbing at the time.

Overflows, the Part Most Often Missing

Read this section before the others, because the overflow is the difference between a blocked gutter and a flooded house. The requirement is that a box gutter must have independent overflow provision discharging to open air, capable of getting rid of all the roof water in the event of total or partial blockage of the normal outlet. Every part of that wording is doing work. Independent means it does not rely on the downpipe that might be blocked. Discharging to open air means the water ends up outside the building, on the ground or down a wall, where it does no structural harm.

In practice the provision takes one of three forms. A side overflow is an opening in the outer wall of the gutter at a set level so water spills clear of the building once it rises past the design depth. A rainhead with a weir, where the open box on the wall has a lower front edge so excess water pours out of it before it can back up. Or a high capacity sump with an overflow outlet separate from the main downpipe.

The level is what gets missed. A rainhead weir needs to sit a minimum of 25 millimetres below the sole of the box gutter so that water leaves the rainhead before it can pond back along the gutter. A rainhead fitted level with the gutter sole, or higher, will fill the gutter before it spills, and plenty of older Perth installations are exactly that. Retrofitting an overflow runs $450 to $1,400 and is the single best value repair available on a box gutter that lacks one. It does not stop the gutter blocking, and it does not reduce the need for clearing, but it changes the consequence of a blockage from water in the ceiling to water running down an external wall. Ask about this on any inspection, because a roof plumber will not always raise it unprompted.

Sizing, Falls and the Numbers in the Standard

Box gutters are sized by calculation and not by eye, and the numbers are specific enough that you can check the basics yourself. The plumbing standard AS/NZS 3500.3 sets the deemed-to-satisfy dimensions. The minimum sole width, measured across the flat bottom of the tray, is 200 millimetres for a domestic Class 1 building and 300 millimetres for other building classes. The minimum depth is 75 millimetres at the high end. The gradient must fall within the range of 1 in 40 to 1 in 200, which means neither too flat to drain nor so steep that the gutter runs out of depth.

Design rainfall surprises almost everybody. Box gutters are sized on a storm with an annual exceedance probability of 1 per cent, which is the 100 year average recurrence interval, not the more modest storm used for ordinary eaves gutters. That is because the consequence of failure is water inside the building. An allowance of 30 millimetres of freeboard is also included to deal with wind driven spillage, which matters on an exposed Perth roof during a cold front.

Those figures have a practical use for an owner. Measure the sole width of your box gutter with a tape. If it is less than 200 millimetres on a house, it was never compliant with the deemed-to-satisfy provisions, and that is worth knowing before you pay to reseal it instead of replacing it. Likewise, standing water anywhere along the run means the fall is outside the acceptable range or the gutter has deflected.

Where a gutter sits outside the standard dimensions or serves an unusual catchment, a performance solution designed by a hydraulic consultant is the alternative path, and that is normal on larger or more complex roofs. For an ordinary house that is an uncommon arrangement. Standards are published through Standards Australia and the construction provisions that call them up through the Australian Building Codes Board.

Sumps, Rainheads and Downpipes

The outlet end of a box gutter is where most of the hardware sits and where most of the capacity is won or lost. A sump sits as a deeper box at the low end of the gutter, collecting water and feeding the downpipe, and its job is to let water enter the pipe without the gutter having to pond to do it. A high capacity sump has to be at least 400 millimetres long and not less than 150 millimetres deep. A shallow improvised sump, or a hole cut in the gutter sole with a downpipe pushed through it, is a common older detail and it strangles the whole system.

A rainhead does the same job from outside the wall. The gutter discharges through the wall into an open box, and the downpipe leaves the bottom of that box. Its advantage is that the open front can serve as the overflow, so rainheads are the usual answer on a parapet installation. Its weir level relative to the gutter sole is the detail that decides whether it works.

Downpipe sizing then has to match the rest of it. An undersized downpipe makes everything upstream of it irrelevant, and the symptom is a rainhead or sump that overflows in heavy rain while the gutter itself looks fine. On a house an outlet serving a box gutter should be generous rather than minimal, and where a roof catchment has been increased by an addition or an alfresco, the original downpipe is frequently now too small for the water arriving. A sump or rainhead comes in at $380 to $950, and the cost depends mostly on whether the wall has to be opened to get the new one through. On a rendered parapet that means making good render afterwards, which is render repair work. New downpipe runs and connections fall under gutter and downpipe installation.

Parapet Walls and Zero Lot Line Houses

Parapets are a Western Australian signature and they are the reason this state has more residential box gutters than its building style suggests. A parapet carries a wall up past the roof line so the facade finishes in a flat horizontal edge instead of an eave. It is the look of most contemporary Perth homes and much of the double-storey stock built since the 1990s. Behind it, the roof has no edge to drain over, so it drains into a box gutter running along the inside face of the parapet and out through the wall to a rainhead.

The zero lot line drives the rest of it. On narrow survey-strata and green-title lots, the R-Codes allow a wall built to the boundary, and where one side of a house sits hard on the boundary the roof on that side cannot overhang. It drains into a box gutter against the boundary wall instead, often with no access from the neighbour side at all. That has a consequence worth knowing: maintaining it may require the neighbour to let you onto their land, and that conversation is much easier before there is a leak.

Parapets introduce their own failure mode independent of the gutter. The wall itself must shed water, so it needs a capping along the top and a flashing where it meets the gutter, both detailed so water runs into the gutter and never down behind it. Where the capping has lifted, the render has cracked or the flashing was never carried down into the gutter, water enters the wall and shows up internally, and resealing the gutter will not stop it.

Diagnosing which of the two you have is useful. A damp patch on the internal face of the parapet wall, high up and often with efflorescence, points at the wall and the capping. A stain on the ceiling a short distance in from the wall points at the gutter. Both at once is common on an older parapet. Wall work is render and texture coating and the structural side of a cracked parapet may need bricklaying and blockwork.

Where the Water Goes, and Soakwell Capacity

The gutter is only half the system, and in Perth the other half is a hole in the ground rather than a street drain. Across most of the metropolitan area and the sandy coastal plain, roof stormwater is disposed of on the property into soakwells, which are perforated concrete or polypropylene chambers buried in sand that let water infiltrate. There is usually no legal connection to a street drain at all. That works well because sand drains freely, and it fails in a specific way: when a soakwell is undersized, silted up or collapsed, the water surfaces at the inlet and runs wherever the ground falls, which is frequently against the footings.

That matters for box gutter diagnosis because the symptoms can masquerade as each other. If a downpipe from a box gutter discharges into a soakwell that cannot accept the flow, the water backs up the downpipe, the rainhead or sump overflows, and the gutter appears to be failing when the problem is 15 metres away and two metres down. Checking the soakwell is part of diagnosing a box gutter overflow and it is routinely skipped. Capacity requirements are set by the local government and are typically expressed as a volume per square metre of roof area, so an addition, an alfresco or a patio built later increases the catchment without anybody adding capacity. Clearing a silted soakwell runs $400 to $1,200 and adding capacity $800 to $4,500, and that is soakwell installation work with the pipework under drainage.

Here is one practical test for the next downpour. Stand where you can see the rainhead or sump and watch it. If the gutter is running clear and the rainhead is brimming, the restriction is downstream in the downpipe or the soakwell. If the gutter itself is ponding and the rainhead is taking little, the restriction is in the gutter or its outlet. Two minutes of observation in the rain saves a great deal of guessing.

Corrosion, Salt and the Metals Involved

Any box gutter spends part of every winter holding water, so the metal it is made from and the metals touching it decide how long it lasts. Modern box gutters are formed from zinc-aluminium alloy coated steel, sold as Zincalume and manufactured by BlueScope, or from prepainted Colorbond, with roll-formed products from Lysaght and Stramit widely available in Perth. Older gutters are plain galvanised steel and some heritage work is copper or lead-lined. The practical difference is that galvanised steel standing in water pits and perforates within decades, and a pinhole in a box gutter sole is an interior leak.

Coastal exposure accelerates every part of this process. Salt aerosol delivered inland on the afternoon sea breeze settles in the gutter, is not always washed out, and holds moisture against the metal. On a coastal Perth block a box gutter can be at end of life in fifteen to twenty years, where the same gutter inland will reach thirty or more. Washing a box gutter out with fresh water when it is cleared is a small thing that genuinely helps.

Incompatible metals cause failures that look like bad luck. Water running off a copper pipe, a lead flashing or an unpainted galvanised surface into a Zincalume gutter will attack the gutter. Treated pine or hardwood in contact with the gutter leaches tannins and preservative salts that do the same. The classic case is a solar hot water system or an air conditioning unit draining its condensate into a box gutter, which puts a continuous trickle on one spot.

Replacement in the right material is the honest answer once perforation starts, because patching a corroded sole buys a season. Where a gutter is sound but thinning, a liquid membrane reline at $120 to $280 a metre is a legitimate way to extend it. Full replacement is $180 to $420 a metre and takes the opportunity to correct width, fall and overflow at the same time. Related work includes roof restoration and roof repairs.

Relining Against Full Replacement

Every box gutter repair quote eventually comes down to this decision, and the right answer depends on why the gutter is failing rather than on how old it is. Relining means leaving the existing gutter in place and lining it with a liquid applied membrane or a bonded sheet system, so the old metal becomes a former and the new lining becomes the waterproof layer. It runs $120 to $280 a metre, needs no roofing lifted, and is quick. Replacement means removing roofing to reach the gutter, taking the old tray out, and installing a new one at $180 to $420 a metre.

Relining suits a gutter that is structurally sound but has thinning metal, isolated pinholes or failing joints, and whose width, depth, fall and overflow are all adequate. It is the right answer on a parapet installation where access is expensive, and on a gutter that is otherwise correct and simply old. Replacement is the answer where any of the geometry is wrong. A sole narrower than the standard, insufficient or reversed fall, no overflow provision and no way to add one to the existing tray, an undersized sump, or deflection and ponding along the run. Relining a gutter with the wrong geometry preserves the fault in a new finish, and the gutter will overflow again on the next design storm with a completely sound lining.

The question to put to a contractor is therefore not which is cheaper but whether the existing gutter is dimensionally correct. If the answer is yes, reline it and save the access cost. If the answer is no, or the contractor has not measured, the cheaper option is a false economy. Membrane work is waterproofing services and metal replacement is gutter replacement.

Liquid Membrane Systems

Liquid applied membranes have become the default repair on accessible box gutters, and they work well within the limits of what they can do. The system is a primer, a liquid resin applied in coats, and usually a reinforcing fabric or matting embedded into the first coat at joints, corners and over fixings. Once cured it is one continuous layer with no laps at all, exactly what a box gutter wants. Polyurethane, polyurea and acrylic systems are all used, and products from Ardex, Sika, Bostik and Crommelin are widely available through Perth trade suppliers.

Preparation is what decides whether the lining lasts. The gutter has to be cleaned back to sound metal, rust has to be treated or removed, loose coating taken off, and the surface primed with the primer that belongs to that system. Applying a membrane over damp, rusty or dusty metal is where failures come from, and it is the step a cheap quote shortens because nobody can see it afterwards. A properly prepared system should give 10 to 15 years on a box gutter, with the main variables being ultraviolet exposure, standing water and foot traffic. Some systems are not rated for permanent water immersion, which matters in a gutter that ponds, so if the fall is marginal ask specifically whether the product is suitable. Ask also for the manufacturer warranty, since the better systems carry one when installed by an approved applicator.

Two limitations of these systems deserve stating plainly. A membrane does not add capacity, so a gutter that overflows will keep overflowing. And a membrane over a corroded gutter with structural rust is a cosmetic result, because the tray still has to hold the water up. Where either applies, the money belongs in replacement instead.

When It Has Already Leaked Inside

Box gutter leaks arrive inside the house rather than outside it, so the repair bill usually has two halves and the interior half is often the larger one. What typically happens is that water enters the roof space, soaks the ceiling insulation, spreads across the top of the plasterboard and comes through at the weakest point, usually a light fitting, a cornice line or a sheet joint. By then the insulation has lost its thermal value, the ceiling battens may be wet, and the plasterboard has sagged. A ceiling that has held water can come down as a whole sheet, so the first action is to keep people out from under it.

Costs for the interior run $900 to $3,500 for one room by the time the plasterboard, the cornice, the insulation and the paint are replaced. Where it has gone on for a season there may also be mould in the roof space, swollen architraves and damage to flooring. Insulation that has been wet should be replaced rather than dried, and that is ceiling and wall insulation work.

Electrical safety is what people most underestimate here. Water reaching a downlight, a ceiling fan or a junction in the roof space is a genuine hazard, and the correct first step is to isolate the affected circuits at the switchboard and not at a wall switch. Do not stand in water and operate a light switch, and do not assume a tripped circuit breaker has made everything safe. On the insurance side, sudden water damage from a storm is usually covered while gradual deterioration of a gutter is usually not, so the cause matters to the claim. Document everything on day one with wide shots as well as close ups, keep the make safe invoice separate from the repair invoice, and get the roof plumber to state in writing what they believe caused the entry. Consumer rights on the repair work itself are enforced by the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission.

Box Gutters in the North West

Box gutters in the cyclonic north of Western Australia face a different problem from the rest of the state, and it is not simply more rain. Tropical rainfall intensity in the Pilbara and Kimberley during a cyclone or a monsoonal event is far above anything Perth sees, so a gutter sized for metropolitan conditions is undersized there before anything else is considered. Design in those regions has to use local rainfall intensity data, and that alone produces wider gutters, larger sumps and bigger downpipes. Wind is the second factor and it is the one that catches people. Western Australia applies its own state variation for wind Region D, described as a band roughly 50 kilometres wide along the north west coast from approximately Port Hedland in the Pilbara to Carnarvon in the Gascoyne, with the variation applying north of the Tropic of Capricorn, effective from 1 September 2022. In cyclonic conditions wind drives water horizontally and can push it up a gutter against the fall, so the freeboard allowance that handles a Perth cold front is not sufficient there.

Debris loading during a cyclone is the third. Vegetation, roofing from elsewhere and whatever the wind has carried all end up in a box gutter, so a gutter that was clear before the event can be blocked during it. That makes the overflow provision more important in the north than anywhere, because the blockage happens at the exact moment the rainfall peaks. Practically, a box gutter repair in the north west should be done by somebody who works in cyclone rated construction, should use local rainfall data in place of a metropolitan rule of thumb, and should check the fixing of the gutter and its flashings as part of the roof load path. Allow 50 to 100 per cent above metropolitan rates, and plan the work for the dry season, since the wet season from around November to April closes the practical window. Cyclone preparation material for the region comes from the Department of Fire and Emergency Services.

Licensing, Plumbers and WA Thresholds

Box gutter work sits squarely inside licensed plumbing in Western Australia, unlike most of the repairs an owner deals with. Roof plumbing and stormwater drainage are plumbing work, and plumbing work in this state must be carried out by a licensed plumbing contractor or by a licensed tradesperson working for one. That licensing is administered through Building and Energy, which sits inside the Department of Local Government, Industry Regulation and Safety and is headed by a Building Commissioner alongside a Director of Energy Safety. The current licensing detail is published by Building and Energy, at the Government of Western Australia.

That carries a practical consequence for owners to note. A handyman, a general roofer or a gutter cleaning operator can clear a box gutter and can often reseal a joint, but the work that defines the system, meaning the gutter, the sump, the overflow, the downpipe and its connection to the stormwater disposal, is plumbing. Asking for the plumbing licence number is not pedantry on this particular job, because a non-compliant box gutter is an insurance and resale problem as well as a leak.

The building thresholds then run alongside the licensing. Any fixed-price residential job from $7,500 to $500,000 belongs under a written home building contract. Permitted work above $20,000 brings home indemnity insurance with it, covering deposit loss to $40,000. A deposit cannot exceed 6.5 per cent of the contract price. Most box gutter repairs fall well under $7,500, so get the scope in writing regardless of whether a contract is strictly required.

Permits are usually not needed for like-for-like repair or replacement of a box gutter, since that is maintenance. A permit is more likely where the roof is being altered, a parapet rebuilt, or a catchment changed in a way that affects stormwater disposal, and that is a question for your local government. The Australian Business Licence and Information Service is another way to work out which licences and approvals attach to the job. The regulations behind all of this are published at Western Australian Legislation.

Perth Metropolitan Pricing

Metropolitan box gutter pricing is driven by access and by the honesty of the inspection rather than by competition on rates. Plenty of roof plumbers work the metro area, but fewer than you would expect are comfortable quoting a box gutter, because it means lifting roofing and taking responsibility for putting it back weathertight. That produces a wide spread in quotes on the same job, and the cheapest is often the one that proposes to reseal from inside the gutter without lifting anything.

The metropolitan area splits into three distinct sub-markets. Corrosion runs fastest along the coast, from Fremantle north through Scarborough and Hillarys and south to Rockingham, so replacement in place of repair is more often the right call and specification matters. The inner and middle suburbs carry the older galvanised installations and the heritage parapets, and that is the most technically demanding work. Post-2000 parapet construction fills the northern and southern corridors, where the gutters are relatively young and the faults are debris, overflow omissions and undersized soakwells.

Access costs are what to watch on the quote. A single storey gutter between two roof planes needs a ladder. A two-storey parapet installation needs scaffolding or a hired work platform at $450 to $1,600 before any plumbing is done. Where that scaffold is up, bundle everything on the upper level into the same visit, including painting, flashings and any window work, because the saving is real. For broader roof work across the metro area, roofing services covers the trade and gutter guard installation is worth considering on a box gutter under trees, with the caveat that guard on a box gutter must not reduce its capacity.

Regional Western Australia Pricing

Beyond the metropolitan area the material cost barely moves and mobilisation dominates, which changes how the work should be organised rather than simply what it costs. Roof plumbing trades serve Mandurah, Peel, Bunbury, Busselton and Margaret River at modest loadings, and the South West gets more rain than Perth, so box gutters there are tested harder and maintained more seriously. Albany, the Great Southern and Geraldton have roof plumbers on the ground, with custom folded gutter lengths likely to come from a Perth supplier. Custom fabrication is the regional constraint that people forget. A box gutter is folded to its dimensions from flat sheet, and not every regional centre has a folder long enough or a supplier carrying the right coated sheet. Where a gutter has to be fabricated in Perth and freighted, long lengths are awkward and expensive to transport and are easily damaged, so expect a lead time and order a sensible allowance.

In the Goldfields, the Wheatbelt, the Pilbara, the Gascoyne and the Kimberley, batch everything. One mobilisation covering the box gutter, the eaves gutters, the downpipes, the roof and anything else needing a roof plumber is far better value than three visits. Rates there sit 40 to 90 per cent above metropolitan ones, with the north west at the top of that because of cyclonic specification on top of travel. For remote owners the highest-value action is scheduling the clearing, not the repair. A box gutter cleared before the wet or before winter rarely fails, and clearing is work a local handyman or a station hand can do safely with the right access equipment, where a repair needs a licensed plumber brought in. Work on the stormwater system beyond the gutter sits under drainage.

What to Look Out For in a Box Gutter Quote

Box gutter quotes divide cleanly into those written after somebody measured the gutter and those written after somebody looked at it from a ladder. The first thing to ask for is the dimensions. What is the sole width, what is the depth at the upstream end, and what is the fall. Those three figures decide whether the gutter can be relined or has to be replaced, and a contractor who cannot give them has not measured. A sole width under 200 millimetres on a house is a capacity problem that no amount of sealing will fix.

The second thing to ask about is the overflow. Does one exist, does it discharge to open air independently of the downpipe, and if there is a rainhead, does its weir sit at least 25 millimetres below the gutter sole. Where the answer is no, get retrofitting it priced in the same quote instead of as a future job, because the access is already being paid for.

The third thing to ask about is the cause. A quote that offers to reseal a gutter without saying why it leaked is treating a symptom. Ask whether the contractor believes this is a blockage problem, a capacity problem, a corrosion problem or a parapet problem, because a leak coming through a cracked parapet wall will continue after the gutter has been sealed faultlessly. Where the diagnosis is uncertain, a clear and inspect visit at $220 to $480 first is money well spent.

Fourth comes what happens downstream of the gutter. Has the downpipe and the soakwell been checked, because an overflowing rainhead is as often a soakwell problem as a gutter problem, and replacing a sound gutter will not fix it. Ask whether anybody has looked at where the water actually goes. Finally there is the paperwork. Plumbing licence number verified, never assumed, access and reinstatement priced as separate lines, a written statement of what will be lifted and how it will be put back, warranty terms including whether recurrence at the same point is covered, and the deposit held inside the 6.5 per cent legal cap. Where interior work follows, ceiling repairs and plumbing services cover the two trades involved.