Cavity Slider Door Installation WA 2026 - Get Free Quotes

What a Cavity Slider Is

A cavity slider is an interior sliding door that, when opened, slides into a cavity built within the wall, so that the door disappears completely from view. It is also known as a cavity sliding door, a pocket door, or simply a cavity slide, and it is the most space-efficient interior door there is, because when open it takes up no floor space and no wall space at all.

This is what sets a cavity slider apart from other doors. A conventional hinged door swings into a room and needs clear floor space for the arc of its swing. A barn door slides across the face of the wall and needs clear wall space beside the opening. A cavity slider does neither: it slides into the wall itself and is hidden, leaving the doorway clear and the room uncluttered.

The trade-off, and the reason cavity sliders are not used everywhere, is that the wall has to be built to contain the cavity. The cavity is a hollow void within the wall, framed to receive the door, and creating it is straightforward in a new build but more involved as a retrofit, since an existing wall has to be opened up. This is the central practical fact about cavity sliders, and much of this guide is about it.

Cavity sliders are used throughout WA homes, particularly in bathrooms, ensuites, studies, walk-in robes, laundries and any space where a door is wanted but floor or wall space is at a premium. They give a clean, uncluttered look and a real practical gain in usable space. This guide explains how they work, where they suit, how they are installed in new builds and retrofitted into existing walls, the structural considerations, and the repairs they commonly need.

How a Cavity Slider Works

Understanding how a cavity slider is built makes both the installation and the repairs clearer, because the way it works explains why some repairs are simple and others reach inside the wall.

The heart of a cavity slider is the cavity unit, a frame that is built into the wall and forms the pocket the door slides into. This unit is fitted within the wall framing during construction, and the wall is then lined over it, so that in the finished wall the cavity is hidden. The unit includes the track at the top, from which the door hangs and runs.

The door itself hangs from rollers, also called carriages or hangers, that run along the track at the top of the cavity unit. The door is suspended from the top and slides horizontally, moving out of the cavity to close the doorway and back into the cavity to open it. A floor guide or jamb guide keeps the bottom of the door tracking straight as it slides. End stops and the door pull or flush handle complete the basic system.

The defining feature, for both installation and repair, is that the running gear, the track and rollers, sits at the top of the cavity, inside the wall. When a cavity slider runs smoothly this is invisible and effortless. When something wears or fails, however, accessing the track and rollers means working at the top of the cavity, which is why some cavity slider repairs are more involved than they first appear, a point the repair sections cover in detail.

Where Cavity Sliders Work Well

Cavity sliders suit a range of situations, and recognising where they work best helps a homeowner decide whether one is the right choice. Their strength is saving space, so they shine wherever space is tight.

Bathrooms and ensuites are a classic application. These rooms are often compact, and a hinged door swinging into a small bathroom takes up space that is genuinely worth saving, while a cavity slider keeps the doorway clear. The same applies to ensuites opening off bedrooms, where a hinged door can clash with the bed or robe. Walk-in robes and dressing rooms suit cavity sliders for the same reason, and a slider into a walk-in robe pairs naturally with the joinery of built-in wardrobes.

Studies, home offices, laundries and small bedrooms all benefit where a swinging door would be awkward, and in a study a cavity slider keeps the wall clear for shelving or an air conditioning installation without a door swing intruding. Cavity sliders are also used between living spaces, where a large slider or a pair can open up or close off areas without a door swing intruding. Anywhere two doorways are close together, or a door swing would clash with furniture, a fixture or another door, a cavity slider solves the problem.

Cavity sliders also give a clean, contemporary, uncluttered look, which is part of their appeal beyond the pure space saving. The question to ask is whether the space really benefits from the door disappearing, and whether the wall can accommodate or be built to accommodate the cavity. Where both are true, a cavity slider is an excellent choice, and a good installer will help judge it.

Cavity Sliders, Barn Doors and Hinged Doors

It helps to compare a cavity slider with the alternatives, because the right door for an opening depends on the situation, and each option has its place.

A hinged door is the conventional swinging door. It seals well around a frame, gives good privacy and sound separation, and is simple and economical, but it needs clear floor space for its swing, which can be awkward in a tight room. A barn door slides across the face of the wall on an exposed track, saving the floor space of a swing and offering a decorative feature, but it needs clear wall space beside the opening to slide onto, and it does not seal around a frame.

A cavity slider slides into the wall and disappears entirely, so it takes neither floor space nor wall space when open, which is the most complete space saving of the three. Its trade-off is the cavity: the wall has to be built to contain it, which is simple in a new build but a more involved retrofit in an existing wall. A cavity slider also seals less completely than a hinged door, though generally better than a barn door.

For a homeowner choosing, the decision turns on the wall and the space. Where a wall can take a cavity, or is being built, and the maximum space saving and a hidden door are wanted, a cavity slider is the answer. Where the wall cannot easily take a cavity but there is wall space beside the opening, a barn door and track installation is the practical alternative. Where space is not the constraint and sealing matters most, a hinged door is fine. A good installer experienced across all three will give honest advice on which suits a particular opening.

New Installs in New Builds

Installing a cavity slider in a new build, or in a renovation where the wall is being built or rebuilt, is the straightforward case, because the cavity unit can be fitted as part of the normal wall construction rather than retrofitted into a finished wall.

In a new build, the cavity slider unit is installed during the framing stage. The cavity unit, which comes as a manufactured frame, is positioned and fixed within the wall framing at the planned doorway, set plumb and square and level so the door will run true. The wall is then lined over the cavity in the normal way, leaving the finished wall with the cavity hidden within it.

Because the cavity is built as part of the wall, a new-build cavity slider install does not involve the disruption of opening up an existing wall, which makes it both simpler and more economical than a retrofit. The key is that it has to be planned and positioned correctly at the framing stage, since the cavity is fixed once the wall is lined. Getting the unit plumb, square and level at that stage is what ensures the door runs smoothly later.

If you are building or substantially renovating, decide on cavity sliders early, at the planning and framing stage, so the units can be built in. A cavity slider designed in from the start is straightforward and gives the space saving with none of the retrofit complications. This is also the moment to plan where wall fixings will and will not be possible later, since the cavity itself cannot take heavy fixings, which the practical considerations section covers.

Retrofitting Into an Existing Wall

Retrofitting a cavity slider into an existing wall, replacing a hinged door or a solid wall section with a cavity slider, is a more involved job than a new-build install, because the existing wall has to be opened up to create and house the cavity.

A retrofit means opening up the wall around and beside the existing doorway, removing the wall lining, working within or rebuilding the framing to install the cavity unit, fitting the unit plumb, square and level, and then re-lining and finishing the wall. It is a real piece of building work, with the disruption, dust and finishing that opening a wall involves, and it costs considerably more than a new-build install.

Several things in the existing wall have to be considered before a retrofit. The wall needs enough clear length beside the doorway to house the cavity, since the cavity is roughly as wide as the door. Anything within that section of wall matters: electrical wiring and power points, plumbing, and other services running through the wall may need to be relocated, which brings in the relevant licensed trades. Low-voltage cabling, such as that for an alarm system installation or a CCTV and security camera installation, may also run through the wall and need to be considered. And, critically, whether the wall is load-bearing has to be established, which the structural section covers.

A retrofit cavity slider is entirely achievable and is often well worth it for the space it gains, but it should be approached as the building job it is. It needs a proper assessment of the wall, a clear scope, and an installer who understands what opening that particular wall involves. A retrofit done properly, with the wall correctly assessed and the unit correctly fitted, gives the same clean result as a new-build install; one done without proper assessment can run into trouble.

Structural Considerations

The most important consideration in any cavity slider retrofit is whether the wall is load-bearing, because this changes the job from straightforward joinery into structural building work, and it must be handled properly.

A load-bearing wall carries load from the structure above it, such as the roof or an upper floor. An opening cannot simply be created or enlarged in a load-bearing wall, because removing wall framing removes support. Where a cavity slider is retrofitted into a load-bearing wall, the opening needs a properly sized and supported lintel or beam over it to carry the load, and that is structural work that should be properly assessed, generally with engineering input, and may require a building permit.

Determining whether a wall is load-bearing is not something to guess at, and it is not always obvious to a homeowner. It depends on the construction of the home and the position of the wall, and getting it wrong is serious. This is why any cavity slider retrofit should begin with the wall being properly assessed, and where there is any question of the wall being load-bearing, that question must be answered by someone competent before the wall is opened.

Where a cavity slider is installed in a new build, the structure is designed to accommodate it from the start, so this is a retrofit issue. If you are planning a retrofit, raise the structural question clearly with the installer at the outset, expect a proper assessment, and understand that if the wall is load-bearing the job includes structural work, a lintel, proper assessment and possibly a permit. A reputable installer will be upfront about this rather than treating a structural wall casually.

Practical Considerations and Limitations

Cavity sliders are excellent in the right place, but it is worth being honest about their practical limitations, because a good installer will be, and a homeowner choosing one should understand them.

The first is wall fixings. The section of wall containing the cavity is hollow, framed only to receive the door, so it cannot take heavy fixings. A heavy mirror, shelving, a cabinet, a handrail or anything else needing solid wall fixing cannot be mounted on the cavity section of wall. In a bathroom in particular, this matters, because it limits where towel rails, cabinets and grab rails can go, and it should be planned for, especially in a new build where the cavity position can be chosen.

The second is sealing and sound. A cavity slider does not seal around a frame the way a hinged door does, so it offers somewhat less acoustic privacy and draught sealing. It generally seals better than a barn door, but for a room where sound separation really matters, this is a consideration. The third is that services, wiring and plumbing cannot run through the cavity section of wall, which is a planning point in a new build and a relocation issue in a retrofit.

A further point is access for repairs. Because the track and rollers sit inside the cavity, a repair to the running gear is less simple than on a hinged door, and a good cavity slider system is designed to allow the door to be removed and the hardware accessed. Quality units and hardware make repairs more manageable, which is one reason quality matters.

None of this makes a cavity slider a poor choice; it remains the best space-saving door for the right opening. It simply means a homeowner should choose with the limitations understood, plan the cavity position with wall fixings and services in mind, and use a quality unit. A good installer raises these points rather than leaving them as later surprises.

Doors and Hardware

The door that runs in a cavity slider, and the hardware that carries and guides it, are central to how well the slider works and lasts, and they are worth understanding when planning a new install or a door replacement.

The door itself can be a standard interior door, a solid or hollow-core panel, a glass door, or a custom door, chosen to suit the room and the look. As with any sliding door, a heavier door, such as a solid timber or glass door, places more demand on the hardware, so the running gear must be rated for the door. Australian door manufacturers such as Corinthian and Hume supply doors suitable for cavity sliders, and a glass door uses safety glass and is specialist work.

The hardware is the cavity unit, the track, the rollers and the guides. Quality varies, and it matters a great deal here, because the hardware is largely inside the wall and a quality system runs smoothly, lasts longer, and is designed so the door and hardware can be accessed for maintenance and repair. Established cavity slider systems, such as those from CS Cavity Sliders and Brio, are widely used and well regarded. A cheap unit and cheap rollers may run roughly and wear quickly, and being inside the wall, that is harder to live with.

Soft-close mechanisms, flush pulls and edge pulls, and privacy latches suited to sliding doors are common additions, and for a bathroom or ensuite a suitable privacy latch is worth specifying. The hardware should be matched to the door and the use.

Treat the cavity unit and hardware as a real part of the decision, not just the visible door. A quality unit and quality running gear, rated for the door, give a slider that runs smoothly for years and can be serviced when needed. Economising on the hardware that lives inside the wall is a false saving, because it is the part that is hardest to deal with later.

Common Cavity Slider Repairs

Cavity sliders are in daily use, and over the years the running gear wears, so repairs are a common part of cavity slider work. Knowing the common problems makes it easier to understand what is happening and what a repair involves.

The most common complaint is a door that has become hard to slide, sticks, or no longer runs smoothly. This is usually a matter of the rollers, which wear over years of use, or the track, which can collect debris or wear. A door that rubs, drags on the floor or the jamb, or that catches as it slides, points to the door having dropped or come slightly out of alignment, often again traceable to the rollers or to the door needing adjustment.

A door that comes off its track, jumps or jams is a more pronounced version of the same wear, and a door that will not slide at all has usually failed at the rollers or the track. Other issues include a worn or broken floor guide, letting the bottom of the door swing, a damaged door pull or latch, and general looseness or noise. Each of these traces back to a specific part, and a competent installer diagnoses which.

The honest point about cavity slider repairs is that, because the track and rollers are inside the wall, accessing them is more involved than on a hinged or barn door. A good cavity slider system allows the door to be lifted out and the hardware accessed, and a skilled repairer can replace worn rollers, clean or replace track, and re-align a door. In some cases of an old or poor-quality unit, the repair is more difficult, and the repairer will give an honest view of what is realistic. Either way, a sticking or dropped cavity slider is usually repairable and worth fixing rather than living with.

Roller and Track Replacement

Because the rollers and track are the parts that wear, their replacement is the heart of most cavity slider repairs, and it is worth understanding what this involves.

The rollers, which carry the weight of the door and let it run, are the most common wear point. Years of daily use wear the rollers, and worn rollers are the usual cause of a door that sticks, drags or runs roughly. Replacing the rollers restores smooth running, and on a good-quality unit this is a manageable job, with the door lifted out and the worn rollers swapped for new ones suited to the unit.

The track can also need attention. Debris in the track affects how the rollers run, and a track that is worn or damaged may need cleaning or, in some cases, replacement. Re-aligning the door and adjusting the running gear so the door hangs level and runs true is part of the same work.

The practical reality is that how straightforward this is depends partly on the quality and design of the original cavity slider system. A well-made system is designed so the door can be removed and the hardware serviced, which makes roller and track work reasonably manageable. An older or cheaper system can make the same work harder, sometimes needing more of the wall lining to be disturbed. This is one of the reasons quality matters at installation, and why a homeowner with a failing slider should have a skilled installer assess it and give a clear, honest quote for the repair.

Door Replacement in an Existing Cavity

Sometimes the cavity slider hardware is sound but the door itself needs replacing, perhaps because it is damaged, dated, or the homeowner wants a different door, and replacing the door within an existing, working cavity is a more contained job than a full install.

Where the cavity unit, track and rollers are in good condition, a new door can be hung in the existing cavity. The old door is removed, a new door is prepared, fitted with rollers suited to the system, and hung on the track, then adjusted to run smoothly and align correctly. This avoids opening the wall, since the cavity is already there, and it is a good option where the running gear is sound.

A few things need to suit. The new door has to be the right size for the cavity and the opening, and its weight has to suit the existing hardware, or the rollers may need upgrading to match a heavier door. A homeowner wanting to swap to a notably heavier door, such as a solid timber or glass door, should expect the hardware to be considered as part of the job.

Door replacement in an existing cavity is a sound option to refresh or upgrade a cavity slider without the cost and disruption of a retrofit. It is worth having an installer confirm that the existing cavity unit and hardware are sound and suited to the intended door, so the new door runs as well as it should.

The Installation Process

A cavity slider installation follows a clear process, though it differs between a new-build install and a retrofit. It begins with assessment and planning: the installer confirms the opening, the door, the cavity unit and hardware, and, for a retrofit, assesses the existing wall, including the critical question of whether it is load-bearing and what services run through it.

For a new build, the cavity unit is fitted within the wall framing at the framing stage, set plumb, square and level, and the wall is then lined over it. For a retrofit, the wall is opened up, the framing worked or rebuilt to receive the cavity unit, any services relocated by the relevant trades, the cavity unit fitted plumb, square and level, and the wall then re-lined and finished, including any structural lintel work where the wall is load-bearing.

With the cavity in place, the track is confirmed, the rollers fitted to the door, and the door hung on the track within the cavity. The floor or jamb guide is fitted to keep the door tracking straight, the end stops and the door pull or latch are installed, and any soft-close mechanism is fitted and adjusted. Where the slider serves a laundry, the work may be coordinated with an appliance installation in the same room. The door is then adjusted so it hangs level, runs smoothly and aligns with the opening.

The job finishes with testing, finishing and a handover. The installer runs the door through its full travel to confirm it slides smoothly into and out of the cavity, the latch and any soft-close work, and everything is secure, and completes the wall finishing. A quality cavity slider installation leaves a door that glides effortlessly, disappears cleanly into the wall, and is a real space-saving asset to the room.

Building Registration and Permits in WA

Cavity slider work in Western Australia ranges from minor repairs through to structural building work, and it is worth understanding how WA's building regulation applies. Building contractors and practitioners in WA are registered under the Building Services (Registration) Act 2011, with the system administered through Building and Energy within the Department of Mines, Industry Regulation and Safety.

A cavity slider repair, a roller or track replacement, or a door replacement in an existing cavity is minor work that does not require a building permit and does not engage the more significant building registration requirements. A new-build cavity slider install is part of the construction of the home and is covered within that building work. These are jobs commonly carried out by carpenters and skilled installers.

The picture changes for a retrofit into an existing wall, particularly a load-bearing one. Opening a wall and, where it is load-bearing, installing a structural lintel is building work that should be properly assessed, may need engineering input, and may require a building permit. A homeowner planning a retrofit should establish the position before work begins, and a reputable installer will advise on it.

Be clear with the installer about the scope, and ask whether any approval is needed. For a repair or a door swap the answer is that it is straightforward minor work; for a retrofit into a load-bearing wall, the structural and approval questions need proper answers. Information on building registration and approvals is available from DMIRS, the relevant local government, and the WA Government.

Australian Standards and Building Requirements

Cavity sliders themselves are not heavily standards-governed in the way structural or services work is, but several building requirements are relevant, and they are worth a homeowner understanding.

The National Construction Code, which incorporates the Building Code of Australia, governs matters relevant to doorways, including requirements that can apply to egress paths and to doorways in certain situations, and the structural requirements that apply to any opening work. Where a cavity slider retrofit involves a structural opening, the relevant structural requirements apply, and the work should be carried out accordingly.

For glass doors used in cavity sliders, the safety glazing requirements apply, with AS 1288 covering glass in buildings and AS/NZS 2208 covering safety glazing materials, together governing the use of safety glass. Where electrical or plumbing services have to be relocated as part of a retrofit, that work is governed by the relevant standards and must be done by the appropriate licensed trades.

A homeowner does not need to know the detail of these requirements, but should expect a competent installer to work within them, to use safety glass where a glass door is involved, and to handle any structural opening properly. Current standards are published by Standards Australia, with the National Construction Code published by the Australian Building Codes Board.

Asbestos and Older Homes

Cavity slider work in an older Western Australian home, particularly a retrofit, can raise an asbestos consideration, and it is worth a moment of thought before work begins. Homes built before the late 1980s, and many into the early 1990s, may have wall linings or sheeting that contain asbestos.

A retrofit is the relevant case, because retrofitting a cavity slider means opening up an existing wall, removing the wall lining and working within the wall. Where the home is of an age that suggests the wall lining may contain asbestos, opening that wall can disturb asbestos-containing material. Even a repair that disturbs the wall lining around an old cavity can be a consideration in a home of that era.

Where the age of the property suggests this is a possibility, the safe approach is to identify the wall material before opening the wall. Arranging asbestos testing and inspection ahead of a retrofit establishes what the wall is made of, so the work can proceed safely. Where asbestos is confirmed, it must be handled correctly, with licensed asbestos removal dealing with asbestos-containing material properly rather than treating it as general building waste.

A reputable installer working on an older home will be alert to this and will recommend identifying the wall material before opening it, rather than cutting into a wall of uncertain content. For a cavity slider repair or a new install in a newer home, asbestos is not a factor. For a retrofit in an older property, it is a sensible thing to check at the planning stage.

Maintenance and Care

A cavity slider needs little maintenance, but a small amount of attention keeps it running smoothly and reduces the chance of a more involved repair later. The main thing is the smooth operation of the door.

Keeping the visible part of the track and the floor guide free of dust and debris helps the door run cleanly, since anything that builds up where the door runs can affect its operation. Operating the door gently, rather than slamming it into the cavity or against the stops, reduces wear on the rollers and the hardware. If a soft-close mechanism is fitted, it does much of this automatically.

The key with a cavity slider is to address any change in how it runs promptly. A door that is starting to stick, drag or run roughly is giving early warning that the rollers or track need attention, and dealing with it early, while it is a minor adjustment or a straightforward roller replacement, is far better than waiting until the door has dropped badly, jammed or come off the track, which is a more involved repair. A cavity slider that suddenly becomes hard to use should be looked at rather than forced. In a rental property, a smoothly running cavity slider is also part of the property's condition, and attending to a sticking door is sensible upkeep that fits naturally with end-of-tenancy bond cleaning and general maintenance.

The approach is simple: keep the track and guide clean, use the door gently, and have any change in its running attended to early. A quality cavity slider that is treated this way will run smoothly and reliably for many years, and the occasional roller replacement over its life is normal and manageable.

What to Look Out For

For a retrofit, the most important thing to look for is an installer who properly assesses the wall, and in particular whether it is load-bearing. A retrofit into a load-bearing wall is structural work needing a lintel, proper assessment and possibly a permit, and an installer who is casual about the structural question, or who proposes opening a wall without establishing whether it carries load, is a serious warning sign. Expect a proper assessment before any wall is opened.

Look at the quality of the cavity unit and hardware proposed. Because the running gear lives inside the wall, a quality unit and quality rollers really do matter, and a quality system is also designed so the door and hardware can be accessed for repair. A quote that economises on the cavity unit and hardware is economising on the part that is hardest to deal with later, so the unit and hardware should be specified.

For a retrofit, the quote should also be clear about the scope of the building work: opening the wall, any services to be relocated, any structural lintel, and the wall finishing. A vague quote that does not address these can hide significant cost and disruption. For a repair, the installer should diagnose the actual problem and quote clearly for the parts and work involved, rather than giving a figure without seeing the slider.

Be cautious of a quote that is notably cheaper than the others, since the saving usually lies in a cheaper unit, a less thorough assessment, or work excluded from the scope. For an older home, an installer should be alert to the asbestos consideration before opening a wall. The scope, the unit and hardware, the price and the warranty should all be in writing, and the installer should carry appropriate insurance.

How to Get Useful Quotes

A useful quote starts with a clear description of the job: whether it is a new install, a retrofit, a door replacement or a repair, the room and the opening, and for a repair a description of the problem, such as the door sticking, dragging or coming off the track. For a retrofit, mention the approximate age of the home and anything known about the wall.

A site visit is valuable for cavity slider work, and essential for a retrofit. For a retrofit, the installer needs to see and assess the wall, consider whether it is load-bearing, look at the services running through it, and judge what opening that wall involves. For a repair, the installer needs to see the slider to diagnose the problem and quote accurately. A quote given without seeing the job cannot properly account for the wall or the fault.

Compare quotes on substance. For a new install or retrofit, items to compare include the cavity unit and hardware and their quality, the door, the scope of the wall and structural work, any services relocation, and the wall finishing and warranty. For a repair, compare the diagnosis, the parts to be replaced, and the work. Because a retrofit can vary widely in scope, a clear, itemised quote is essential for a fair comparison.

Confirm the installer carries appropriate insurance, ask about the workmanship warranty and any manufacturer warranty on the unit and hardware, and for a retrofit confirm how the structural side and any approval are handled. Posting a clear description of the job through The Quote Yard is a quick way to reach several carpenters and specialist installers across WA at once and gather genuinely comparable quotes.

Cavity Sliders in a Renovation

Cavity sliders are often installed as part of a wider renovation rather than on their own, and thinking about how they fit with the rest of the work helps a homeowner plan a tidy project.

The clearest point is timing. A retrofit cavity slider involves opening and re-finishing a wall, which is dusty, disruptive work, so it belongs earlier in a renovation, before the finishing trades. Painting follows the wall work, not the other way round. Where new flooring is going in, the cavity slider work and the flooring should be sequenced sensibly, since the door has a relationship with the finished floor, and a homeowner planning new carpet laying or carpet installation and replacement should coordinate the two.

Cavity sliders also coordinate with other elements of a room. Because the cavity section of wall cannot take heavy fixings, the position of the slider has to be planned against where wall-mounted items need to go, including window furnishings near the opening, so it is worth coordinating with a blinds and curtains installation. In a bathroom or ensuite renovation, the cavity slider is one element among the plumbing, the joinery and the fit-out, and it fits naturally into that sequence.

Treat a cavity slider, especially a retrofit, as part of the whole renovation rather than a standalone job, and to plan its place in the sequence with the installer and the other trades. A cavity slider installed at the right point, with the wall work done before the finishing and the other elements coordinated around it, gives a clean, integrated result.

Trades qualified to perform this work in WA can browse current paid project leads posted by homeowners on the WA tradie job leads board. The platform connects verified trades to homeowner projects across Greater Perth and regional WA.

Trade categories most relevant to cavity slider installation and repairs include carpenter jobs for the core installation and repair work, handyman jobs for repairs and door swaps, cabinet maker jobs for joinery and custom doors, builder jobs for structural retrofit work, residential renovation jobs for cavity sliders within a wider renovation, and property maintenance handyman jobs for repairs and maintenance.