Concrete Benchtop Costs SA 2026 - Get Free Quotes

Concrete Benchtop Costs in South Australia

Concrete benchtops run $800 to $1,500 per square metre supplied and installed across South Australia, which puts a standard five to seven square metre kitchen at $4,000 to $10,000. That sits alongside granite instead of below it. It also sits above laminate by a factor of four or five, which surprises almost everyone who assumes the material must be cheap.

That assumption comes from the price of cement and sand, and it misunderstands where the money goes. A mould has to be built specifically for your kitchen, accurate to every dimension. The piece then cures for days or weeks, occupying workshop space that has to be paid for. Finishing runs to many hours on top of that. Materials are a small fraction of the total on every job and always have been.

What the money buys is a surface that exists nowhere else in the world. There is no slab to view beforehand, no pattern repeat, and no chance a neighbour has the same benchtop. Yours was mixed, poured, finished and sealed for your kitchen alone. For households who want exactly that, nothing else on the market delivers it at any price.

The material also asks something unusual of its owner, and being clear about it prevents most of the disappointment associated with concrete. It is designed to change. Colour shifts slightly over years, the surface develops character where it is used most, and fine crazing appears in the great majority of benches eventually.

None of that is a defect, and a maker who explains it upfront is being candid. A household that wants a surface looking identical in a decade should choose porcelain or granite instead. There is no shame at all in preferring one over the other, and knowing which you are before you order saves everyone trouble.

A pair of local conditions bear on concrete directly and both deserve attention. Water is the first, because supplies here are harder than the eastern capitals. The scale that leaves prompts households to reach for acidic descalers, and those attack cement based surfaces exactly as they attack marble.

Weight and ground movement together make the second. A concrete top is heavy enough to need cabinetry built or reinforced specifically to carry it. Reactive clay soils across much of metropolitan Adelaide also move houses through the seasons, so how the piece is supported and bedded matters as much as how it was cast.

Quartz left the market entirely under the prohibition that took effect on 1 July 2024, with enforcement in this state sitting with SafeWork SA. Concrete was unaffected as a product, though the grinding and polishing involved in finishing it does release silica dust and carries the same workplace duties for the people doing it. Where every surface sits against every other is set out under benchtops.

Cast in a Workshop or Cast in Place

There are two ways to make a concrete benchtop, and the choice affects cost, timeline, appearance and risk. Most South Australian makers work one way or the other instead of offering both. It is therefore worth understanding the difference before deciding who to approach, since asking the wrong maker for the wrong method wastes everyone's time.

Casting in a workshop is the common method and the more controlled of the two. A mould is built to your measurements and the mix poured into it. The piece then cures under supervision rather than in whatever conditions happen to prevail. It is then ground, polished and sealed in the workshop, before being delivered as a finished object ready to place onto the cabinetry.

Control over conditions is the whole advantage there. Temperature and moisture during curing can be managed, the surface is finished with proper equipment at a comfortable working height, and any piece that comes out wrong is remade at the maker's cost rather than becoming your problem.

The limitation is handling, and it is a real one. A finished piece has to be transported and then carried into the house, and concrete is the heaviest material in this category.

A long island top may therefore need making in two sections with a join between them. In a house with a narrow passage it may not fit through at all.

Dust sheeting and ventilation both become your problem for the duration. Casting in place means building the mould on top of your cabinetry and pouring the mix in your kitchen. It produces a completely seamless top with no joins anywhere. It can also wrap around awkward geometry that would be difficult or impossible to transport, which makes it the answer for an unusual layout.

The costs of that approach are real and worth weighing before agreeing to it. Your kitchen becomes a workshop for a week or more. Curing happens in whatever conditions the house provides. Finishing is done on site in a confined space, and grinding concrete indoors produces dust that must be controlled with water or extraction rather than simply swept up afterwards.

A third approach uses a thinner mix reinforced with fine fibres, producing a lighter panel at a thickness closer to stone. That reduces the weight problem considerably and allows more delicate detailing at edges and returns.

It costs $900 to $1,600 per square metre, because both the mix and the technique are more specialised than ordinary casting. Fewer makers offer it, so ask early if it interests you.

Ask any maker which method they use and why they prefer it. Then ask to see finished work in person instead of in photographs. Concrete photographs beautifully and consistently, which flatters every maker equally. Surface texture is what you will actually live with day to day, so five minutes with your hand on a finished bench tells you more than an entire gallery of images.

Weight and What the Cabinetry Needs

Concrete is the heaviest common benchtop material, and this is the practical constraint that shapes almost every other decision. A forty millimetre top weighs roughly ninety kilograms per square metre. That is well over half as much again as twenty millimetre granite, which is itself considered heavy by anyone who has carried it.

A two metre island piece at that thickness approaches two hundred kilograms in a single element. It has to be carried into the house, lifted accurately onto the cabinetry, and then supported there permanently for decades. None of those three is trivial, and the third is the one people forget about.

Weight also affects who can install the piece, since some makers subcontract the lift and others carry it themselves. Cabinetry has to be built or reinforced for that load before anything is cast. Standard kitchen carcasses are designed with laminate or stone in mind. Additional rails, thicker panels or a full supporting frame are therefore commonly needed. Expect $300 to $1,200 depending on the layout and how much of the existing joinery can stay.

That work belongs to the joiner instead of the benchtop maker, which makes coordination essential. The reinforcement has to exist before the piece is made, so this conversation happens at design stage rather than a week before delivery, as covered under custom kitchen joinery.

Overhangs need particular attention with this material more than any other. A breakfast bar extending beyond its cabinetry carries a great deal of weight out at the unsupported end. Steel support built into the joinery is generally required, not optional at anything beyond a modest projection, and it has to go in before the cabinetry is closed up.

Ask early whether the maker has installed in a house like yours, because experience with tight access is what separates a smooth delivery day from a difficult one. Access determines what can physically be delivered to the room. A narrow side passage, a tight hallway, a staircase or a first floor kitchen may each rule out a single large piece. The answer is then either casting in place, or accepting a join where one would not otherwise have been needed. Both are workable, and both are better decided in advance.

Send photographs of the route from the street with your first enquiry. On concrete more than any other material, access is the constraint that changes the design rather than merely the price, and discovering it late is expensive.

Sealing and Why It Decides Everything

Cooking oil is the worst of them, since it soaks in without leaving an obvious mark until the stain has spread. Concrete is porous, and without a sealer it absorbs oil, wine, coffee and anything else that lands on it. Sealing is therefore not maintenance in the optional sense that people sometimes assume. It is the difference between having a benchtop and having a permanent record of everything you have ever cooked on it.

Sealers divide into two families that behave quite differently in service. A penetrating sealer soaks into the surface and leaves the concrete looking and feeling like concrete, which is what most people choosing the material want. It slows absorption instead of stopping it entirely, so spills still need wiping promptly.

A topical sealer forms a thin film across the surface instead of soaking in. It resists stains and acids considerably better as a result.

The costs are that it looks slightly like a coating rather than raw material, and that it can scratch or wear through in high traffic areas. A penetrating sealer in the same spot thins and is topped up.

Many makers use a combination of the two, with a penetrating product for depth and a wax or topical layer over the top. Ask which approach yours takes and what maintaining it actually involves. The answer determines your routine for the next twenty years, so it deserves more than a passing mention in a quote.

Reapplication typically runs every two to five years for a penetrating sealer, though a heavily used bench may want it sooner. Expect $200 to $500 to have it done professionally, or less doing it yourself, since the work is well within a homeowner's capability and needs no special equipment. Products from Lithofin, Aqua Mix and Dry Treat are stocked by South Australian stone and tile suppliers and suit concrete as well as natural stone.

Use a soft cloth and a pH neutral cleaner for everyday wiping, since abrasive pads dull the surface faster than anything else in a kitchen. Waxing is the other half of the routine on a good many benches. A food safe wax applied every few months adds a layer that takes the daily wear. Reapplying it is a ten minute job across a whole kitchen. That small habit materially extends the life of the sealer underneath and delays the bigger job.

The water test tells you when to act and needs no equipment at all. Splash a little water onto the surface and watch what it does. Water that beads and sits means the sealer is still working. Water that soaks in and darkens the concrete beneath means it is time to reseal, and testing the busiest area instead of a quiet corner gives the honest answer.

Expect four to eight weeks from order to installation on most jobs, with the curing period accounting for much of that. Curing before sealing matters a great deal and cannot be hurried. Concrete continues to gain strength and give off moisture for weeks after it is poured. Sealing too early traps that moisture inside the piece, which causes problems that appear later. A maker who wants time before applying the final finish is doing the job properly rather than delaying you.

Patina, Crazing and What Counts as a Defect

This is the section that decides whether concrete is right for you, not merely appealing. It is also the one most often glossed over in a showroom, where every sample is new and nothing has yet had a decade to change.

Concrete changes appearance over time, and that is inherent to the material rather than a sign of poor work. Colour deepens or lightens slightly across the years. Areas of heavy use develop a different sheen from the rest. The whole surface gradually acquires a lived in quality that admirers call patina and sceptics call wear, and both descriptions are accurate.

Fine surface crazing is the specific thing people worry about most before ordering, and it is the question every maker gets asked. These are hairline marks in the surface layer, usually visible only when light rakes across the bench at a low angle. They appear in the great majority of concrete benchtops as the material cures and settles across its first years, and they are not evidence that anything went wrong.

Crazing of that kind is cosmetic, not structural. It does not weaken the piece in any measurable way, and it does not let water through a sealed surface.

Reputable makers say plainly that it will probably occur. One who guarantees otherwise is either working with a very different mix or overselling, and that is worth knowing before you sign.

Structural cracking is a different matter and is not normal at all. A crack running through the full thickness, particularly one starting at a cutout corner, points to one of three causes. Inadequate reinforcement inside the piece, insufficient support beneath it, or movement in the cabinetry that has been transferred straight into the top.

In South Australia that last cause deserves attention. Reactive clay soils lift and settle houses seasonally, and a heavy rigid slab bedded hard onto cabinetry that shifts will concentrate stress at its weakest point exactly as stone does, with the same result.

Staining is the third category and it is usually recoverable. A mark that has penetrated a worn sealer can often be drawn out with an absorbent paste left on the surface for a day or two. The area is then resealed once it has dried. It is the same technique used on natural stone, and it works on concrete for the same reason, since both are porous materials that absorb, not repel.

Set your expectations before you commit rather than discovering them afterwards. A household that will find a hairline mark in raking light distressing should choose something else entirely. A household that likes the idea of a surface carrying a history will be very happy with concrete for decades. Neither preference is wrong, and knowing which describes you is the single most useful thing on this page.

Colour, Aggregate and Finish

Two makers using the same pigment will not produce identical benches, which is either the appeal of the material or the reason to avoid it. Colour is achieved by adding pigment to the mix rather than applying anything to the surface, which means it runs through the whole thickness.

A chip therefore exposes more of the same colour rather than revealing something different underneath. That is a real advantage over any printed or coated surface, where a chip shows the material beneath and cannot be disguised.

Ask for a sample panel poured from your chosen mix before the full job, since colour on a screen or a chip never matches a cured slab. The palette is broad without being unlimited. Greys from pale through to charcoal are the natural territory of the material and always look right. Warm sand and buff tones work well too. Strong colours are achievable, though they tend to read as painted instead of as concrete, which defeats much of the point of choosing it.

Consistency of colour is where expectations need managing carefully. Pigmented concrete varies slightly across a single pour and more so between pours. Two pieces made a week apart will not match perfectly. A large kitchen made in sections may therefore show subtle differences between them, and a maker who promises otherwise is promising something the material does not do.

Aggregate is the stone within the mix, and grinding back the surface is what exposes it. A lightly ground bench shows small flecks scattered through the grey. A heavily ground one reveals the stone across the whole surface, closer in appearance to terrazzo. The maker can also seed particular stones, recycled glass or even shell into the mix deliberately.

That seeding is where concrete becomes truly bespoke. A bench containing aggregate chosen for its colour, or incorporating a material with some meaning to the household, is the kind of thing no manufactured surface can offer at any price. It is also the reason a good many people choose the material in the first place.

Surface texture ranges from a smooth polish, through a honed matte, to a deliberately trowelled finish carrying visible variation. Polished shows every mark and fingerprint more readily than the alternatives. A matte or textured surface hides daily use considerably better and is the more practical choice in a kitchen that gets worked in instead of photographed.

Edges can be square, softly rounded, or formed with a visible cast edge that shows the material's character openly. Because the piece is made in a mould rather than cut from a slab, profiles that would be expensive to machine in stone are simply built into the mould instead. That makes shaped edges far cheaper here than they would be in granite.

Integrated features are the other advantage of casting. A drainer, a moulded splashback, a shaped sink recess or a curved corner can all be formed as part of the piece itself.

None of it is added afterwards or joined on. Achieving the same result in stone is possible but more expensive, and some of it is not possible at all.

Concrete in South Australian Conditions

Two local factors affect concrete more than they affect most benchtop materials. Both are worth planning around at the outset, and neither costs anything to allow for if you know about them early.

Water hardness comes first, and the connection to concrete is direct. Water reticulated across South Australia holds more dissolved calcium and magnesium than what comes out of taps in Sydney or Melbourne. The level shifts from zone to zone, and areas drawing from the River Murray tend to sit at the harder end of the scale. Zone by zone figures are published by SA Water.

The scale that appears around a tap is purely cosmetic and wipes off with a cloth. What causes harm is the response to it. Concrete is cement based and alkaline, so acidic descalers and vinegar based cleaners attack the surface itself rather than merely stripping the sealer. They etch it in exactly the same way they etch marble, and the damage is not reversible by cleaning.

The fix is the same as for marble and costs nothing at all. Keep one pH neutral cleaner under the sink and use it for everything.

Where scale has built up, treat it with a product intended for the surface instead of reaching for a general supermarket descaler. The same logic and the same products apply to marble, as covered under marble benchtops.

Citrus, wine and vinegar in ordinary cooking do the same thing on a smaller scale every day. A well sealed bench resists them comfortably for the time it takes to notice and wipe up. That is precisely why the sealer matters and why it needs maintaining. Leaving a cut lemon sitting on the bench overnight is a poor idea on any cement based surface.

Reactive clay soils are the second factor. Large parts of metropolitan Adelaide sit on highly reactive clay that swells and shrinks seasonally, with sites classified from stable through to extremely reactive under the Australian Standard for residential slabs and footings published by Standards Australia.

Concrete behaves like stone in that situation rather than like timber. It is rigid and strong in compression while having very little give in it. A piece bedded hard onto cabinetry that moves will therefore eventually crack, usually at a cutout corner. Flexible bedding with proper support beneath every span is the answer, and it costs nothing extra to specify.

Adelaide's summer heat is the one local condition where concrete performs unambiguously well. It handles hot pans without damage and does not scorch the way laminate or quartz would.

Its mass also means it stays cool to the touch in a hot kitchen for far longer than a lighter material. That is a small daily pleasure through a run of forty degree days.

Where Concrete Works

An island is where concrete earns its cost most convincingly of anywhere in a house, and it is the piece most makers would rather build. It is the piece people look at and stand around. The material's character also reads best across a large uninterrupted surface, not in narrow runs. An island is additionally the easiest place to build the cabinetry support the weight requires, since it is usually being built new anyway.

The full kitchen works well for households who want the material throughout and understand what they are taking on. The maintenance is real and ongoing. The appearance will change across the years. Both of those are perfectly fine when they were the intention, not an unwelcome surprise in year three.

Sealing outdoors needs doing more often than in, since sun and rain both work on the surface continuously. Outdoor kitchens suit concrete unusually well, and this is worth knowing given how few materials do. It is unaffected by ultraviolet light, which rules out most alternatives in Adelaide's summer. It handles the temperature swings between a forty degree afternoon and a cold night, and it looks entirely at home outside rather than transplanted. The sealing routine matters more where rain and sun are both hitting it, as covered under outdoor kitchen benchtops.

Bathroom vanities are a good application and often the best introduction to the material. A vanity also lets you live with concrete for a few years before committing to it across a kitchen. A vanity is small enough that the weight stays manageable and the cost stays modest. An integrated basin can be cast as part of the same piece, which no stone fabricator can match. Acid exposure is also far lower in a bathroom than in a kitchen, so the sealer lasts longer. Vanity applications are covered in full under bathroom benchtops.

Laundries work well for similar reasons. The surface takes hard use without complaint and appearance expectations are lower than they are in a kitchen. A cast in drainer beside a trough is exactly the kind of detail concrete handles easily and stone does not, as covered under laundry benchtops.

Where concrete is a poor fit is a household that wants low maintenance and visual permanence. Anyone who would resent resealing every few years is choosing the wrong material.

So is anyone who would be distressed by fine crazing appearing in raking light. Porcelain serves those households far better, since it asks nothing at all and changes not at all across its life, as covered under porcelain benchtops.

Rental properties and homes being sold soon are also poor candidates for the material. The maintenance depends on the occupant caring enough to do it. A buyer unfamiliar with concrete may also read normal patina and crazing as damage. That affects what they are willing to pay, and explaining the material at an inspection rarely works.

What Affects the Cost

Casting method sets the starting point for any quote you receive. It also determines the timeline, since a piece cast in your kitchen ties up the room for a week or more. Workshop casting is the standard approach and the baseline for pricing. A thin fibre reinforced mix costs more at $900 to $1,600 per square metre, because both the materials and the technique are more specialised.

Finish drives the labour hours more than any other single choice you make. It is also the decision that most affects how the bench looks in five years, since a polished surface shows wear that a honed one absorbs. A plain sealed surface is quickest to produce. A honed matte finish takes noticeably longer. A polished surface with exposed aggregate is the most time consuming of all, because the grinding runs through many progressive stages before the final polish.

Thickness affects both the material cost and the weight in direct proportion. A heavier top may also push the cabinetry reinforcement into a more expensive bracket, so the two costs compound rather than sitting side by side.

Colour and seeded aggregate add cost in proportion to how unusual the request is, and a maker will price bespoke work individually. A standard grey is included in the base rate. A pigmented mix adds a modest amount on top of that. Seeding a specific stone or a recycled material is priced as bespoke work and quoted individually, since sourcing and testing both take real time. Ask for a sample panel in your chosen mix before the full pour, and expect to pay something for it.

Cutouts run $150 to $400 each and are formed in the mould wherever possible, not cut afterwards. That is why they must be confirmed before the piece is cast rather than adjusted later. Changing a sink model after the mould is built is an expensive conversation.

Cabinetry reinforcement at $300 to $1,200 sits outside the benchtop quote entirely and belongs to the joiner. So do any steel supports for an overhang. Somebody has to coordinate the two trades, and on most jobs that somebody is you.

Access and regional travel round out the picture, and both matter more here than on any lighter material. Weight is the reason for that.

A crew that can carry a laminate top in single handed needs several people and sometimes lifting equipment for concrete. Removal of an old bench beforehand sits outside the quote as well, as covered under benchtop repairs where a fix is the better answer. Dust duties during grinding and polishing are administered by SafeWork SA.

Concrete Benchtop Costs Across Adelaide

Rates hold reasonably steady across the metropolitan area, and the variation comes from the specification and the site. Access and cabinetry condition matter more on concrete than on any other material. Older housing with narrow passages and tired joinery therefore sits toward the top of the range, since both the delivery and the support work cost more.

Position in the range comes from the finish and the complexity rather than from your postcode. A plain sealed grey island sits at the bottom of the range right across the metropolitan area. A polished kitchen with exposed aggregate, an integrated drainer and a cast splashback sits at the top of it everywhere. One local point is worth knowing before you start ringing around. Concrete benchtops in South Australia are made by specialist studios, not by the stone fabricators who dominate the granite and porcelain trade, and there are fewer of them here than in Sydney or Melbourne. That means less choice, longer lead times through busy periods, and a stronger reason to see finished work in person before committing, since the difference between makers is wider in this material than in any other.

Concrete Benchtop Costs in Regional SA

Specialist concrete makers are concentrated in metropolitan Adelaide, so regional households face both travel costs and a considerably smaller pool of operators. The weight of the finished product makes freight a more significant line than it is on any lighter material. Those two together explain most of the regional premium on this surface.

Casting in place becomes more attractive at distance, and it is worth asking about specifically rather than waiting for it to be offered. Where a maker is travelling several hours anyway, pouring on site removes the freight problem entirely. Only the materials and the maker need to make the journey instead of several hundred kilograms of finished benchtop. The trade off is that your kitchen becomes their workshop for the duration, which is a bigger imposition in a house with no second kitchen.

Local concreters are worth considering for simpler pieces, and this is a real regional option. A competent local operator can produce a plain outdoor bench or a laundry top perfectly well. A polished kitchen island with exposed aggregate is different work entirely, requiring specialist equipment and a great deal of experience. Match the piece to the maker.

Transport risk deserves settling in writing before any deposit changes hands. A finished concrete top is heavy, brittle in the wrong direction, and expensive to remake from scratch.

Establish clearly who bears the cost if a piece arrives damaged after several hundred kilometres of highway. That conversation is far easier before the piece is cast than after it arrives in two parts.

Resealing at distance is worth planning for as an ongoing commitment. Products are readily available through stone and tile suppliers and can be posted. Application is comfortably within a homeowner's capability. That matters a great deal in regional South Australia, since calling a specialist out from Adelaide every three years would be uneconomic.

Bore water across parts of the Mid North, Riverland and Eyre Peninsula carries a heavier mineral load than reticulated supply does. That means faster scale build up around a tap and a correspondingly stronger temptation to reach for an acidic cleaner. On a cement based surface that is exactly the wrong response, and the damage accumulates instead of washing off.

What to Look Out For

A bench in a working kitchen tells you more than a showroom sample, since only a used surface shows how the material ages. See finished work in person before committing to anything at all. Concrete photographs far better than it lives, which flatters every maker equally and tells you nothing. Texture is what you will experience under your hand every day. The variation between makers in this material is also wider than in any other, which makes the visit worth the effort.

Get the maintenance schedule in writing at the same time, covering both the sealer interval and the wax if one is used. Ask directly whether fine surface crazing is expected, and be wary of anyone who promises it will not happen. A candid maker explains that it is likely and that it is cosmetic. That answer also tells you something useful, which is that they have benches out in the world with a few years on them rather than only a portfolio of new work.

Confirm the cabinetry support before the piece is made, not after. Reinforcement at $300 to $1,200 has to be in place before casting begins.

It also belongs to the joiner rather than the benchtop maker, which means two trades and two quotes. Somebody has to coordinate them, and on most jobs that person is you.

Establish which sealer is being used and exactly what maintaining it involves. Ask for the product name on the quote so you can buy the same thing in three years. Penetrating and topical sealers have different reapplication intervals and quite different care routines. You need to know which one you have before the maker leaves, since the two are not interchangeable and using the wrong product later causes problems.

Ask how ground movement will be allowed for in the installation. A maker who works across Adelaide will raise reactive soils before you mention them. A rigid heavy slab sitting on cabinetry that shifts seasonally faces exactly the same problem stone does in this state. Flexible bedding and proper support under every span cost nothing extra to specify, and a maker who works in Adelaide regularly will raise it before you do.

Get the curing time in writing and resist any temptation to rush the maker. A piece delivered early because a kitchen deadline slipped is the commonest cause of problems in this material. Concrete continues gaining strength for weeks after it is poured. Sealing or loading a piece too early causes problems that appear months down the track, long after everyone has forgotten the schedule pressure. Where the whole surface eventually needs swapping, that sits under benchtop replacement.

Confirm licensing where the work forms part of larger building work with Consumer and Business Services, and note that grinding concrete releases silica dust requiring water or extraction. Disputes can be taken to SACAT, and general guidance is published at sa.gov.au.

What to Look for in a Quote in SA

A concrete quote worth comparing states the casting method, the thickness, and the colour and finish being used. It confirms whether aggregate will be exposed and lists every cutout and integrated feature.

It names the sealer product and its maintenance interval, which most quotes omit entirely. It should also give the curing and lead time, and state plainly what is excluded.

Brief every maker identically or the numbers coming back will not compare. Send the dimensioned kitchen plan along with photographs of the room and the existing cabinetry. Include the sink and cooktop models and your preferred colour and finish. Add photographs of the access route from the street, which matters more on this material than on any other because of the weight.

Ask five questions that separate a serious maker from an occasional one. Can I see a bench you made three or more years ago, and will crazing occur on mine. What support does my cabinetry need, and which sealer do you use. Finally, how long from order to installation including the curing period, since that answer tells you whether they are allowing the material enough time.

Get one granite quote alongside your concrete quotes before deciding. The two overlap considerably in price while behaving quite differently in service.

Knowing both numbers turns the decision into an informed preference instead of an assumption about which must be dearer. Granite detail sits under granite benchtops, and how a kitchen should be approached as a whole under kitchen benchtops.

Budget the maintenance as part of the decision. Resealing every two to five years and waxing every few months is the ongoing commitment, and a household unwilling to do it will be unhappy with the material within a decade. Posting the job on The Quote Yard puts the same brief in front of several South Australian makers, and where the whole kitchen is being reworked that sits under kitchen renovations. Guarantees covering both the product and the workmanship are explained by the ACCC.