Concrete Sealed in SA?
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Typical Concrete Sealing Costs SA
Plain concrete driveway, per sqm$8 - $20
Exposed aggregate, per sqm$12 - $28
Stencilled or coloured, per sqm$15 - $30
Typical 60 sqm driveway$600 - $1,600
Cleaning and preparation, per sqm$5 - $15
Stripping a failed sealer, per sqm$15 - $40
Anti slip additive$2 - $6/sqm
Interior polished floor seal$15 - $35/sqm
Figures on this page are indicative 2026 SA estimates only and vary with area, surface type and condition, the extent of cleaning and preparation required, the sealer specified and the number of coats. Quotes should always be obtained for your specific property. Work health and safety, environmental, stormwater and consumer protection requirements are set by legislation and local council policy and are periodically updated, so confirm the current position with the relevant authority and your contractor before relying on any figure.
Concrete Sealing Services SA 2026 - Get Quotes
Sealing concrete is a preparation job with a coating at the end of it, and almost every failure traces back to what happened before the sealer came out of the tin. A surface that was not properly cleaned, not degreased, still holding moisture from a wash the day before, or never etched to give the sealer something to grip will produce peeling, clouding or patches within a season regardless of how good the product was. That is why a quote worth having states the preparation separately from the application, and why a contractor who wants to seal on the same day they clean is describing a job that will need doing again. The second thing to settle is which type you want, because penetrating and topical sealers look entirely different and suit different surfaces. Post your job on The Quote Yard to reach South Australian concrete sealing contractors.
At a Glance - Sealer Types and What They Suit
| Type | Cost per sqm | Appearance | Reapply | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Penetrating, silane siloxane | $8 - $18 | No change, matt | Five to ten years | Driveways, paths, slip sensitive |
| Topical acrylic, solvent based | $12 - $25 | Wet look, enhances colour | Two to four years | Exposed aggregate, stencilled |
| Topical acrylic, water based | $10 - $22 | Satin, less gloss | Two to four years | Where solvent odour is an issue |
| Polyurethane | $20 - $40 | Gloss, hard wearing | Five years plus | Garage floors, high traffic |
| Lithium or silicate densifier | $10 - $20 | No change | Long | Polished and interior floors |
| No sealer | Nothing | Weathers naturally | Not applicable | Plain concrete you do not mind staining |
Penetrating or Topical, and Why the Choice Is Hard to Reverse
The two families work in completely different ways. A penetrating sealer soaks into the concrete and reacts within the pores to repel water from inside, leaving the surface looking untouched. A topical sealer forms a film on top, which is what produces the wet look that makes exposed aggregate and coloured concrete come alive.
Penetrating sealers last far longer, do not peel because there is no film to peel, and do not change slip resistance. Their limitation is appearance, since they do nothing for the look of the surface, so a household that wants their aggregate driveway to look wet will be disappointed.
Topical sealers deliver the appearance and accept the trade offs. They need redoing every two to four years under Adelaide sun, they can peel or cloud if the preparation or the conditions were wrong, and they make a surface slipperier when wet unless an anti slip additive goes in. The consequential point is that the decision is awkward to undo, because going from topical to penetrating means stripping the existing film first at $15 to $40 a square metre, which frequently costs more than the sealing itself. Deciding properly at the outset is worth the conversation.
Preparation, Which Is Most of the Job
Cleaning comes first and it needs to remove more than visible dirt. Dust, loose material, algae, moss and the fine film that builds on any outdoor surface all prevent a sealer bonding, and pressure cleaning is the usual method. That work is covered at pressure cleaning. Degreasing is a separate step that pressure water does not achieve. Oil spots on a driveway have penetrated the concrete, and a sealer applied over them lifts within months because it never bonded to the substrate underneath.
Existing stains need addressing before anything is sealed. Rust, tannin from leaves, paint and efflorescence, which is the white salt bloom that migrates to the surface, each need their own treatment, and sealing over a stain locks it in permanently. Preparation decides it. Etching or grinding gives the sealer a profile to grip. Smooth trowelled concrete in particular is too closed to accept a coating well, and acid etching or mechanical grinding opens the surface.
The surface must be genuinely dry before sealing. Concrete holds moisture for far longer than it looks, and this is the single most common cause of a topical sealer clouding or blushing within days of application. A contractor who walks the surface, points out the oil spots and the smooth trowelled sections, and tells you the cleaning has to happen days before the sealing is describing the part of the job that determines whether it lasts. Contractors who seal regularly will raise this without being asked. Anybody who has sealed driveways across the metropolitan area for a decade has seen every version of this go wrong and can usually predict from a walk around the surface which failures are likely, which is exactly what a site visit is meant to establish.
A moisture test is quick and worth insisting on. Taping plastic sheet to the surface for a few hours and checking for condensation underneath costs nothing and settles the question properly. Repairs happen before sealing and not after. Cracks, spalling and pitting all need dealing with first, since sealing over them fixes nothing and makes the later repair harder. Filling and patching beforehand is covered at concrete repairs and crack filling.
| Step | Why It Matters | What Happens If Skipped |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure clean | Removes film and growth | Sealer never bonds |
| Degrease oil spots | Oil has penetrated | Lifts within months |
| Treat stains | Each needs its own method | Stain locked in permanently |
| Etch or grind | Gives the sealer a key | Peels off smooth concrete |
| Allow full drying | Concrete holds moisture | Clouding and blushing |
| Repair cracks first | Sealing fixes nothing | Harder to repair later |
Choosing the Right Sealer for the Surface
Plain grey concrete generally suits a penetrating sealer, with Crommelin, Bondall and Sika among the brands widely stocked in South Australia. With no decorative finish to enhance, what matters is protection against staining and moisture, and the long reapplication interval comes as a bonus. Exposed aggregate is where topical sealers earn their place. The wet look that brings out the stone is the reason most households seal it at all, and a penetrating product will not deliver that. The difference shows up eighteen months later rather than on the day the work is finished, which is precisely why households find this trade so hard to judge at the point of choosing between quotes.
Stencilled and coloured concrete needs sealing instead of optionally benefiting from it. The colour layer sits at the surface and is vulnerable to ultraviolet and wear, so the sealer is protecting the finish as much as the concrete. The two look nothing alike. Laying that finish is covered at stencilled concrete. On a pool surround, slip resistance has to be settled before any decision about appearance.
A glossy topical sealer on a wet pool surround is genuinely hazardous, and an anti slip additive is the standard answer. Laying or renewing that surface is covered at concrete pool surrounds. A household expecting their aggregate driveway to come up wet and glossy will be thoroughly disappointed by a penetrating sealer, and one wanting a surface that never needs redoing will be equally unhappy with an acrylic film. A site visit settles the question faster than any phone discussion. On a surface that has already been sealed once with an unknown product, establishing what is there matters before anything else, since an incompatible coating over the top will lift and wrinkle within weeks.
Garage floors suit polyurethane or an epoxy system instead of a driveway sealer. Tyre traffic, hot tyre pickup and oil all demand something more robust than an acrylic film. Coating a garage slab is covered at garage floor painting. Polished interior floors use densifiers instead of surface films. Where a household has recently bought the property and has no idea what was applied or when, a contractor able to identify the existing coating from a small test patch is worth considerably more than one who simply quotes a rate.
Lithium or silicate products harden the concrete itself and keep the polished appearance, which a topical coating would obscure. Grinding and polishing itself is covered at polished concrete. Match a reseal to what is already on the surface. Putting a solvent based product over a water based one, or an incompatible film over an existing coating, produces lifting and wrinkling.
| Surface | Usual Choice | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|
| Plain concrete driveway | Penetrating | Long interval, no look change |
| Exposed aggregate | Topical acrylic | Wet look is the point |
| Stencilled or coloured | Topical acrylic | Protects the colour layer |
| Pool surround | Either, with anti slip | Slip resistance first |
| Garage floor | Polyurethane or epoxy | Hot tyre pickup and oil |
| Polished interior | Densifier | Keeps the polished look |
Slip Resistance, and the Mistake People Make Around Pools
A topical sealer makes concrete slipperier when wet, and the glossier the finish the more pronounced the effect. On a driveway that matters little. Around a pool surround, a set of steps or a path that gets watered, it matters a great deal.
The remedy is straightforward and inexpensive, which is why it is frustrating how often it is left out. An anti slip additive, usually a fine polymer or aluminium oxide grit, is mixed into the final coat, with AS 4586 the standard covering slip resistance of pedestrian surfaces at $2 to $6 a square metre and restores grip without changing the appearance noticeably. It has to go into the top coat rather than an undercoat to do anything, and the grade matters, since too coarse a grit produces a surface that is uncomfortable underfoot and holds dirt. A household should raise this at quoting stage for any surface that will be walked on wet, because retrofitting it means applying another coat. The situations that most need it in South Australia are pool surrounds, alfresco and entertaining areas that get hosed down, steps and ramps anywhere, and paths beside garden beds that catch sprinkler overspray. Households with elderly residents or young children should treat it as standard rather than optional. Where a surface has already been sealed glossy and is slippery, the options are a further coat with additive or stripping back, and the first is considerably cheaper. Entertaining area scope sits at concrete patios and entertaining areas.
Sealing New Concrete
New concrete needs to cure before it is sealed and the interval is longer than most people expect. Sealing too early traps moisture and produces exactly the clouding that ruins the appearance. Moisture is the usual culprit. Twenty eight days is the figure usually quoted for a full cure. Some sealers are formulated for earlier application, so follow the manufacturer's direction in preference to any general rule.
A curing compound is a different product from a sealer. Concreters often apply one at the pour to control moisture loss, and it may need removing before a decorative sealer goes on. Concrete that feels perfectly dry underfoot can still hold enough water to cloud a topical sealer within days of application, which is why the plastic sheet test exists and why a same day clean and seal is a false economy. Households who mention it at enquiry get a figure that holds.
Efflorescence on new concrete is common and worth waiting out. The white bloom is salts migrating to the surface, and sealing over it locks it in where it will remain visible. Ask the concreter what they applied at the pour. Knowing whether a curing compound was used, and which one, saves the sealing contractor guessing. Pouring a new driveway is covered at concrete driveways.
Decorative finishes are frequently sealed by the concreter as part of the job. Establishing whether that is included and what product was used tells you when the first reseal falls due. Sealing contractors around the state hold quite different views on this point. Knowing which is which makes comparing two quotes a far more useful exercise.
What Goes Wrong and Why
Peeling is the most common failure and it always means a bonding problem. Inadequate cleaning, oil left in the surface, a smooth unetched finish or an incompatible existing coating each produce it. Adelaide sun shortens it. Clouding or a milky white appearance means moisture was trapped. The surface was not dry enough, or rain or dew arrived before the sealer cured, and the water is now sitting under the film.
Blushing has the same cause and sometimes recovers on its own. A light haze that appeared after an unexpected shower may clear as the moisture escapes, and a heavy one generally will not. Ultraviolet exposure here degrades acrylic films considerably faster than in the cooler southern states, so a north facing driveway that looked excellent after eighteen months can be visibly tired by the end of its third summer. It is the detail that most often separates two quotes on the same driveway.
Bubbles and pinholes come from applying in direct heat. Sealing a surface in full Adelaide sun means the solvent flashes off faster than it can level, leaving texture and trapped air. Dark patches usually mean uneven application or an uneven substrate. Too much product in one area, or concrete with varying porosity, both produce a patchy result.
Wear patterns in the wheel tracks appear on driveways over time. Wear of this kind is normal on a topical sealer and signals that a reseal is due, not that anything has failed. A slippery surface is a product selection failure and not an application one. It means no anti slip additive went into a gloss coating on a surface that gets wet.
| Symptom | Cause | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| Peeling or flaking | Poor bond, oil or no etch | Strip and redo properly |
| Milky or cloudy film | Moisture trapped underneath | Usually strip and reapply |
| Light haze after rain | Blushing | May clear on its own |
| Bubbles and pinholes | Applied in direct heat | Recoat in cooler conditions |
| Patchy dark areas | Uneven application or porosity | Additional coat |
| Slippery when wet | No anti slip additive | Top coat with additive |
Weather, Timing and Why a Hot Adelaide Day Is the Wrong Day
Sealer application is more weather dependent than households expect, and South Australia presents problems at both ends of the year. Heat is the summer issue, because a surface at forty degrees flashes off solvent almost immediately, which prevents the sealer levelling and leaves bubbles, pinholes and lap marks where wet edges dried before they met. Concrete in full Adelaide sun reaches temperatures well above the air temperature, so an afternoon that feels manageable can still be too hot at the surface, and the sensible approach is early morning application or a shaded day instead of pressing on. Winter brings the opposite problem, since a surface that never fully dries between rain events cannot be sealed at all, dew forms overnight on a coating that has not cured, and low temperatures slow curing to the point where an unexpected shower ruins the work. That leaves spring and autumn as the reliable windows, with mild dry stretches and manageable surface temperatures. Three practical points follow for a household booking the work. Allow several genuinely dry days beforehand, not just a dry morning, since the concrete needs to be dry through and not merely on top. Check the forecast for the day after as well, because most sealers need hours of dry weather to cure. And accept a contractor postponing for weather as a sign they know what they are doing, since the alternative is paying twice.
What Actually Stains Concrete in a South Australian Backyard
Sealing is mostly bought as stain protection, so it helps to know what a household is actually protecting against and which of those a sealer handles well. Oil and transmission fluid from vehicles are the classic driveway problem and a sealed surface gives you time to clean a spill before it penetrates, which an unsealed one does not. Leaf tannin is the one Adelaide households underestimate, since eucalypt and plane leaves left on damp concrete leave brown marks that are genuinely difficult to remove and which a sealer largely prevents. Fertiliser and iron supplements produce rust coloured staining that is among the hardest to shift, and a hose that drags across a treated lawn onto a path is enough to do it. Red wine, food and cooking oil matter on alfresco areas, where a sealed surface is the difference between wiping up and living with a mark. Barbecue grease is worse again and a sealer around a cooking area repays itself quickly. Sprinkler overspray carrying bore or mineral rich water deposits white staining over time, which is common across Adelaide and stubborn to remove. Against all of that, a sealer buys time and not immunity, so the practical guidance is that a sealed surface needs spills cleaned promptly and will reward that, while an unsealed one absorbs them within minutes. Cleaning work sits at concrete and paver cleaning.
Access, Curing and Living With It
Keep off the surface for the period the contractor specifies. Foot traffic is usually permitted well before vehicles, and driving on a sealer that has not cured leaves permanent tyre marks. Slip matters more than gloss. Vehicle access is generally the longer wait. Twenty four to seventy two hours is the usual range depending on the product and the weather, and a household with a single driveway needs to plan for it.
Keep sprinklers off the area for the curing period. An irrigation system that comes on overnight onto fresh sealer is a common and entirely avoidable cause of a ruined finish. On a pool surround, a set of steps or an alfresco area that gets hosed down, a glossy film without an anti slip additive creates a genuine hazard that costs two to six dollars a square metre to have avoided. Two surfaces of the same age can present quite differently on this.
Expect a strong odour from solvent based products. It disperses outdoors within a day, though it matters where a driveway runs close to bedroom windows in summer. Keep pets off until it has cured. Paw prints in fresh sealer are permanent, and the solvent is not something an animal should be walking through. Cover or move anything you do not want overspray on. Garden beds, fences, walls and vehicles all need protecting, and a contractor who masks properly is doing it right.
Doing It Yourself, and Where It Usually Goes Wrong
Sealers are sold in hardware stores and a determined householder can seal a driveway themselves. It is one of the more realistic do it yourself jobs in this trade, provided the limitations are understood before and not after the tin is opened.
Preparation is where amateur jobs fail and the reason is equipment and not effort. A domestic pressure washer does not match a commercial unit for removing the embedded film that prevents bonding, degreasing needs the right product rather than detergent, and acid etching involves handling material that requires protection and careful neutralising afterwards. Application has its own traps, since maintaining a wet edge across a large area is harder than it looks and the lap marks left where one section dried before meeting the next are permanent until the surface is stripped. Judging surface moisture is the third difficulty, because concrete that feels dry underfoot can still hold enough water to cloud a topical sealer, and a plastic sheet taped down for a few hours is the only reliable check. The jobs most suited to doing yourself are small areas, penetrating sealers which are far more forgiving of uneven application, and resealing a surface that is already in good condition. The jobs worth paying for are exposed aggregate and decorative concrete where appearance is the whole point, anything requiring stripping, large driveways where wet edge control matters, and any surface needing slip resistance built in.
How Often It Needs Redoing
Topical sealers in Adelaide last two to four years, and the sun accounts for the short interval. Ultraviolet exposure degrades acrylic films faster here than in cooler southern climates, and a north facing driveway wears fastest of all. Penetrating sealers run five to ten years because there is no film to break down. They wear out rather than fail visibly, which makes the interval harder to judge from appearance alone. A water bead test tells you where a penetrating sealer stands. Water that soaks straight in rather than beading on the surface means the protection has gone.
Traffic and exposure matter more than the calendar. A driveway carrying two cars daily in full sun needs attention sooner than a shaded path nobody walks on. Resealing a topical film before it fails is far cheaper than after. A surface recoated while the existing film is sound needs cleaning and a coat, while one left until it peels needs stripping at $15 to $40 a square metre.
Set a reminder instead of waiting to notice. The moment a household notices the sealer has gone is usually well past the point where a simple recoat would have done. Periodic cleaning between seals is covered at concrete and paver cleaning. Contractors around Adelaide approach this quite differently from one another.
| Sealer | Adelaide Interval | How You Know |
|---|---|---|
| Topical acrylic, full sun | Two to three years | Dulling, wheel track wear |
| Topical acrylic, shaded | Three to four years | Gradual loss of gloss |
| Penetrating | Five to ten years | Water soaks in, stops beading |
| Polyurethane, garage | Five years plus | Wear at the door line |
| Densifier, interior | Long | Loss of sheen under traffic |
| Any, after stripping | Restart the clock | Full preparation again |
Is It Worth Sealing at All?
Not every concrete surface needs sealing, and a household that does not want an ongoing maintenance commitment is entitled to leave plain concrete alone. It is worth being clear about what sealing does and does not buy.
What it genuinely delivers is stain resistance, which matters most on surfaces that see oil, food, leaf tannin or fertiliser, so a driveway where a car parks and an alfresco area both benefit meaningfully. It reduces water absorption, which slows the freeze damage that barely applies in Adelaide but does slow salt and moisture related deterioration on coastal properties. On decorative concrete it protects the finish itself, and on stencilled or coloured work an unsealed surface will fade and wear in a way that is difficult to recover. What it does not do is add structural strength, prevent cracking from ground movement, or fix an existing problem, and a contractor implying otherwise is overselling. The honest positions are these. Decorative, coloured or exposed aggregate concrete should be sealed and kept sealed, since the appearance you paid for depends on it. Plain grey concrete is a genuine choice, where a penetrating sealer is worthwhile if staining bothers you and doing nothing is perfectly reasonable if it does not. And a household choosing a topical sealer is accepting a recurring cost every two to four years, so wanting the wet look once without committing to maintaining it is the decision most likely to disappoint. Aggregate work sits at exposed aggregate concrete.
| Ask Every Contractor | Why It Matters | A Good Answer |
|---|---|---|
| What preparation is included | Most failures start here | Itemised, priced separately |
| Penetrating or topical | Different look and life | Named product, explained |
| How many coats | One coat rarely suffices | A number, in the quote |
| Is anti slip included | Anything walked on wet | Yes, in the top coat |
| How long between clean and seal | Moisture causes clouding | Days, not the same day |
| When can I drive on it | Single driveway households | A stated period |
| Item | Cost | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Plain driveway | $8 - $20/sqm | $600 to $1,600 for 60 sqm |
| Exposed aggregate | $12 - $28/sqm | Texture uses more product |
| Stencilled or coloured | $15 - $30/sqm | Protecting the colour layer |
| Cleaning and preparation | $5 - $15/sqm | See it itemised |
| Stripping a failed sealer | $15 - $40/sqm | Often exceeds the sealing |
| Anti slip additive | $2 - $6/sqm | Trivial against the risk |
Commercial and Strata Surfaces, Where the Requirements Change
Sealing a commercial forecourt, a strata driveway or a shared path involves considerations a domestic job does not, and owners of small commercial premises are frequently unprepared for them. Slip resistance moves from advisable to a duty of care, since a business or a body corporate has obligations toward people using the surface and a glossy sealer on a wet entrance is the kind of thing that appears in a liability claim. Access and staging matter more too, because a commercial car park or a strata driveway cannot simply be closed for three days, which usually means sealing in sections, working overnight or over a weekend, and accepting a higher rate for the disruption. Wash water management is examined more closely on commercial sites, where the volume is larger and the contamination heavier, and containment is generally expected rather than optional. In a strata or community title scheme the driveway and common paths are common property, so the corporation arranges and funds the work and an individual owner acting alone generally cannot recover the cost. Documentation is worth keeping in both cases, covering the product used, the date and the slip resistance measures applied, since that record is what answers a question if one ever arises. Commercial cleaning sits at commercial pressure cleaning.
Regional Considerations Across South Australia
Metropolitan Adelaide combines high ultraviolet exposure with a long dry season. Topical sealers work hard here and reach the shorter end of their interval, particularly on north and west facing surfaces. Coastal suburbs add salt to the equation. Airborne salt accelerates surface deterioration on unsealed concrete, which strengthens the case for a penetrating sealer on properties near the water.
Reactive clay across much of the metropolitan area causes cracking that no sealer prevents. Sealing a driveway that is moving seasonally is worth doing for appearance, provided nobody expects it to address the movement. Correcting a settled slab is covered at concrete levelling and slab jacking. The Adelaide Hills brings more shade, more moisture and more organic staining. Leaf tannin, moss and algae all mark concrete under tree cover, and surfaces stay damp longer which narrows the application window.
Regional areas have fewer specialist contractors and often longer travel. A minimum charge or a mobilisation component appears on smaller jobs a long way from Adelaide. Contractors differ noticeably in how they approach this. Telling them apart makes a quote comparison genuinely useful.
| Area | Main Factor | Practical Effect |
|---|---|---|
| Metropolitan Adelaide | High ultraviolet | Topical at shorter interval |
| North and west facing | Direct sun all afternoon | Wears fastest |
| Coastal suburbs | Airborne salt | Penetrating sealer favoured |
| Reactive clay areas | Seasonal cracking | Sealing will not stop it |
| Adelaide Hills | Shade, damp, leaf tannin | Organic staining, tight window |
| Regional areas | Travel distance | Minimum charge applies |
Wash Water, Runoff and Where It Is Supposed to Go
Preparing concrete for sealing generates a considerable volume of dirty water, and where that goes is a genuine consideration and not a formality. Pressure cleaning a driveway lifts oil, detergent, algae and accumulated grime, and all of it ends up in the runoff.
Stormwater in South Australia discharges to creeks, rivers and ultimately the gulf without treatment, which is the reason contaminated wash water is not supposed to enter it. A competent contractor manages this, and the approaches vary with the job. Containing and collecting the water for appropriate disposal is standard on heavily contaminated surfaces, particularly commercial forecourts and driveways with significant oil staining. Diverting runoff to a grassed or garden area lets soil filter it and suits lighter domestic cleaning. Capturing solids with a bunded mat or a vacuum recovery unit is common on larger jobs. Where acid etching is used the water carries an additional issue, since acidic runoff needs neutralising before it goes anywhere, and a contractor who etches and simply hoses the result into the gutter is not doing the job properly. For a household the practical point is to ask how wash water is handled and to expect a specific answer, which is also a reasonable proxy for how carefully the rest of the job will be done. Discharge to stormwater is regulated by the EPA.
What Concrete Sealing Costs
A plain concrete driveway runs $8 to $20 a square metre depending on the sealer and the preparation needed. A typical sixty square metre driveway lands between $600 and $1,600 all up. Exposed aggregate at $12 to $28 a square metre costs more because the textured surface uses more product. The wet look finish that most owners want requires adequate film build. Stencilled and coloured concrete at $15 to $30 a square metre reflects both the product and the care required. The colour layer is what is being protected, and patchy application shows badly on a patterned surface.
Cleaning and preparation at $5 to $15 a square metre is worth seeing as a separate line. It is the part that determines whether the sealer lasts, and the part a cheap quote has reduced. Stripping a failed sealer at $15 to $40 a square metre frequently exceeds the cost of sealing. That figure explains why the initial choice of sealer type deserves proper thought. An anti slip additive at $2 to $6 a square metre is trivial against the consequence of leaving it out. On anything walked on wet it should be in the quote by default.
What to Look Out For
Require preparation to be itemised separately from application. Most sealer failures start with inadequate preparation, and a single lump sum hides how much of it is being done. Be wary of a contractor proposing to clean and seal on the same day. Concrete holds moisture far longer than it looks, and trapped moisture is what causes clouding. Establish which sealer type you are getting and see the product named. Penetrating and topical produce completely different results and the choice is expensive to reverse.
Ask for anti slip additive on any surface that gets wet underfoot. It costs very little at the time and requires another coat to add afterwards. Confirm how long before you can drive on it. Guarantees on workmanship and materials come under the ACCC, trade licensing sits with Consumer and Business Services, and a dispute that stalls can be taken to SACAT.
How to Get Useful Quotes
Say what the surface is. Plain, exposed aggregate, stencilled, coloured or polished each lead to a different product and a different rate. Measure the area and say whether it has been sealed before. An existing coating changes the preparation entirely and may need stripping. Describe the condition honestly, including oil spots and stains. Those need addressing before sealing and a contractor pricing without knowing will revise on the day.
Say whether the surface gets wet underfoot. Pool surrounds, steps and alfresco areas all need slip resistance built into the specification. Mention how old the concrete is if it is recent. New work needs a full cure before sealing, and a curing compound from the pour may need removing. Have each quote state the preparation, the sealer type and product, the number of coats, whether anti slip is included and the return to service time. Pin down those five and the quotes become comparable, and pathway work sits at concrete paths and walkways.
Concrete Sealing Across South Australia
We connect households with roof cleaning operators across South Australia for driveway sealing, exposed aggregate, decorative concrete and interior floors, from inner Adelaide and the coastal suburbs through the plains and the Adelaide Hills, out to the Barossa, the Fleurieu, the Mid North and the South East.
▶ Adelaide City & Inner Suburbs 16 areas
▶ Adelaide Metro 13 areas
Eastern Suburbs
Western Suburbs
▶ Adelaide Northern Suburbs 15 areas
Inner North
North East
North & Playford
▶ Adelaide Southern Suburbs 19 areas
Inner South
South & Marion
Outer South & Onkaparinga
▶ Adelaide Hills 12 areas
Hills Face Zone
Outer Hills
▶ Adelaide Beaches 9 areas
Bay & Western Beaches
Port Adelaide & LeFevre
▶ Barossa & Clare Valley 10 areas
Barossa Valley
Clare Valley
Mid North
▶ Fleurieu Peninsula 7 areas
South Coast
Inland Fleurieu
▶ Yorke Peninsula 7 areas
Copper Coast
Southern Yorke
▶ Eyre Peninsula 8 areas
Upper Eyre
Lower Eyre & West Coast
▶ Limestone Coast 9 areas
Mount Gambier Region
Coonawarra & Penola
Upper Limestone Coast
▶ Riverland & Murray 8 areas
Riverland
Murray Bridge & Mallee
▶ Kangaroo Island 5 areas
▶ Flinders Ranges & Outback 9 areas
Southern Flinders
Flinders Ranges
Outback SA
Concrete Sealing FAQs - SA 2026
What does concrete sealing cost in SA?
A plain driveway runs $8 to $20 a square metre, so a typical sixty square metre driveway lands between $600 and $1,600. Exposed aggregate is $12 to $28 because the textured surface uses more product, and stencilled or coloured concrete $15 to $30.
Penetrating or topical, which should I choose?
Penetrating soaks in and leaves the look unchanged, lasts five to ten years and cannot peel. Topical forms a film that produces the wet look on aggregate and coloured concrete, but needs redoing every two to four years under Adelaide sun. Plain grey suits penetrating, decorative suits topical.
Why does preparation matter so much?
Because almost every failure starts there. A surface not properly cleaned, not degreased, still holding moisture, or never etched will produce peeling or clouding within a season whatever product went on. Ask for preparation to be itemised separately from application in the quote.
Can the driveway be cleaned and sealed on the same day?
No, and a contractor proposing it is describing a job that will need redoing. Concrete holds moisture far longer than it looks, and trapped moisture is the most common cause of a topical sealer clouding or blushing within days. Allow several genuinely dry days between the two.
How often does it need redoing?
Topical sealers two to four years in Adelaide, with north and west facing surfaces at the shorter end because ultraviolet degrades the film. Penetrating sealers five to ten years. For penetrating, a water bead test tells you: if water soaks straight in rather than beading, the protection has gone.
Will sealing make my pool surround slippery?
A gloss topical sealer will, and this is the mistake made most often. An anti slip additive mixed into the top coat at $2 to $6 a square metre restores grip without changing the appearance noticeably. Ask for it on anything walked on wet, including steps, alfresco areas and paths near sprinklers.
When can I seal new concrete?
Generally after a full cure, which is usually quoted as twenty eight days, though some products are formulated for earlier application. Sealing too early traps moisture and causes clouding. Ask the concreter whether a curing compound was applied at the pour, since it may need removing first.
Why has my sealer peeled?
Always a bonding problem. Inadequate cleaning, oil left in the surface, smooth unetched concrete or an incompatible existing coating each cause it. The remedy is stripping at $15 to $40 a square metre and redoing it properly, which frequently costs more than the original sealing did.
What is the best time of year to seal?
Spring or autumn. Summer is too hot, since concrete in full Adelaide sun flashes off solvent before it can level, leaving bubbles and lap marks. Winter surfaces never fully dry and dew forms overnight on uncured coatings. A contractor postponing for weather is protecting the result.
Do I actually need to seal it?
Decorative, coloured and exposed aggregate concrete should be sealed and kept sealed, since the appearance depends on it. Plain grey concrete is a genuine choice. Sealing gives stain resistance and reduced water absorption, but adds no strength and will not prevent cracking from ground movement.
Concrete and Surface Specialists - SA
Related SA Services
For Tradies - SA
Are you a tradie? Browse current paid job leads on the SA tradie job leads board, where households across Adelaide and regional South Australia post real projects. Sealing work brings cleaners, concreters and coating applicators onto the same surface, so you can explore builder jobs in SA, carpenter jobs in SA and tradie jobs in SA, or see the full range of leads posted to The Quote Yard platform.
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This page provides guidance information only and is not professional advice of any kind. Details may change, always verify with the relevant authorities and seek independent professional advice where needed.
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Reviewed by The Quote Yard Editorial Team
How The Quote Yard Works
We connect you with independent local tradies and service providers, we don't perform any trade work ourselves. Tradies provide their own quotes directly to you. Always confirm licensing, insurance, and scope of work before engaging any provider.
All SA tradies are required to hold appropriate licences. Verify at Consumer and Business Services SA.
Figures on this page are indicative 2026 SA estimates only and vary with area, surface type and condition, the extent of cleaning and preparation required, the sealer specified and the number of coats. Quotes should always be obtained for your specific property. Work health and safety, environmental, stormwater and consumer protection requirements are set by legislation and local council policy and are periodically updated, so confirm the current position with the relevant authority and your contractor before relying on any figure.