Door Services Costs NSW 2026 - Get Free Quotes

Door Service Costs in NSW

Door work across New South Wales runs $100 to $300 for an adjustment or minor repair, $250 to $800 for an internal door supplied and fitted, $800 to $2,500 for an entry door, $250 to $700 for sliding door rollers and track work, $300 to $900 for a cavity slider repair, $600 to $1,600 for a certified security screen door and $500 to $1,200 for a garage door motor. Those figures span a twenty minute hinge adjustment and most of a day, and the category is therefore hard to price from a phone call.

The more useful thing to establish is who you should be calling, because door work is not one trade. A carpenter handles hinged doors, frames and internal joinery. A glazier handles anything with glass in it, including sliding door panels and sidelights. A locksmith handles locks and hardware. A screen installer handles flyscreens and security doors. A garage door specialist handles panel doors, springs and motors, and that last one is a genuine safety boundary rather than a convention.

Getting that wrong costs real money on small jobs. Every one of those trades charges a callout, and on a repair worth a hundred and fifty dollars the callout is most of the bill, so a first call to the wrong operator roughly doubles what you pay. The cheapest thing you can do before booking anything is spend five minutes working out which category your problem falls into.

There is one boundary that matters for safety rather than economics. Garage door springs store an enormous amount of energy, enough to cause serious injury when they fail or are released without the right equipment, and they are the single most dangerous component in domestic door work. Neither a handyman nor an enthusiastic owner should be adjusting or replacing them. That work belongs to a garage door technician with the right tools, and it sits under garage door installation and repairs.

The other decision worth making early is whether you are dealing with one door or a house full of them. Households tend to call about the worst door and live with the other five, when the economics strongly favour dealing with them together. Travel, setup and the minimum charge are covered on the first door, and everything after that costs only the time it takes. Walk the house and try every door before you make the call.

What Door Services Covers

The category spans installation, replacement, repair, adjustment and hardware across every door in a house, and the range of work is wider than most people picture. Hanging a new leaf, replacing a frame, adjusting a binding door, replacing rollers on a slider, fitting a screen door, replacing a garage door motor, reglazing a sidelight, changing a lockset and weather sealing an entry are all door services and all involve different skills.

Hinged doors are the largest group and cover internal, entry, laundry, garage access and cupboard doors. They are the domain of carpenters and cover hanging, adjustment, frame replacement, undercutting for new flooring and hardware fitting. Adjustments run $100 to $300, internal replacements $250 to $800 and entry doors $800 to $2,500. Detailed pricing and diagnosis for this group sits under door installation and repairs.

Sliding doors form the second group and behave completely differently. Aluminium framed glass sliders, cavity sliders that disappear into a wall, stacker and bifold systems and sliding robe doors all run on tracks and rollers rather than hinges, so the failures are wear in the running gear rather than the leaf. Costs run $150 to $900 depending on type and whether the wall has to be opened.

Garage doors are their own world with their own specialists. Sectional panel doors, tilt doors and roller doors each have distinct mechanisms, and the automation, springs, cables and safety systems attached to them require specific knowledge and equipment. Repairs run $200 to $700 and motor replacement $500 to $1,200. Side access doors between a garage and outside are ordinary hinged doors and sit under garage side access door installation.

Screens and security doors are a fourth group again, manufactured and installed by screen specialists rather than carpenters. Flyscreen doors are simple and inexpensive, while certified security doors are tested assemblies with their own standards and cost accordingly. The two are frequently confused, and the difference matters when someone proposes cutting an opening into one. Both sit under security doors and screens.

Hardware and glazing cut across all of the above. Locks, handles, hinges, closers and weather seals apply to almost every door type and are handled by locksmiths and carpenters depending on complexity. Glass in doors, sidelights and sliding panels is a glazier's work and carries safety requirements. Neither is a door type in itself, so both are worth scoping as separate items.

Which Trade You Actually Need

Call a carpenter when the problem is the leaf, the frame or the way the door hangs. Binding, dropping, dragging, a damaged leaf, a rotten jamb, a door that will not latch, undercutting after new flooring and hanging a new door are all carpentry. This is the largest category and the one most people need, and the work sits under carpentry services or, for smaller items, a handyman.

Call a locksmith when the problem is the lock, the key or the hardware. A lock that will not turn, a key snapped in a cylinder, a lost key requiring rekeying, an upgrade to a deadlock or a smart lock, and a handle with a failed mechanism are all locksmithing. A carpenter can fit basic hardware, and anything beyond that belongs to a locksmith. That work sits under locksmith and lock repairs.

Call a glazier when glass is involved. A cracked sliding door panel, a broken sidelight beside an entry, a shattered shower screen and any door where the glazing has failed all need a glazier, both for the skill and because safety glazing requirements apply. Toughened glass also cannot be cut or drilled after manufacture, so any modification to a glass door means a new panel rather than an alteration. That work sits under glass repairs and window replacement.

Call a screen installer for flyscreens, security screens and the doors they are fitted to. Torn mesh, a bent flyscreen frame, a security door that no longer closes properly and a new certified security door are all screen work, and these operators manufacture to size rather than fitting stock products. Flyscreen work sits under flyscreen and security screen installation and repair.

Call a garage door specialist for anything on a garage door, without exception. Panels, tracks, cables, springs, rollers, remotes and motors all belong to that trade, and the springs in particular are dangerous enough that attempting an adjustment without the right equipment causes serious injuries every year. Automation work sits under garage door opener and automation installation.

A handyman covers the overlap between all of these and is frequently the right first call on small work. Adjusting a binding door, refitting a loose handle, replacing hinges, fitting door stops, easing a sticking latch and hanging a straightforward internal leaf are all well within a competent handyman's scope, and the rate is usually lower than a specialist's. The point at which you need a specialist is when the job involves the frame, the wall, glass, springs or certification. Asking directly whether a job is within their scope saves everyone a wasted visit, and most will tell you honestly.

Call a builder when the opening itself is changing. Widening a doorway, creating a new opening in a wall, altering a load bearing element or dealing with a frame that has moved because the building has moved are all beyond door work. That last case is common in NSW and worth recognising early, since adjusting doors in a moving house is maintenance without end. Widening for access sits under door widening and accessible entry modifications.

Hinged and Entry Doors

Hinged doors are the workhorses of a house and they fail in predictable ways. Hinge screws work loose in the jamb over years of use and the door drops, catching at the top corner opposite the top hinge. Timber swells in humid weather and binds along the latch edge. Frames move when the building moves. Hardware wears out. Each of those has a different fix, and the location of the binding usually identifies which one you are dealing with.

Internal doors are cheap to replace relative to their impact on a house. New leaves in existing frames at $250 to $500 each supplied and fitted change the feel of a hallway for far less than most cosmetic work, and doing several at once brings the per door figure down substantially. Solid core leaves cost two to three times as much as hollow core and block considerably more sound, which earns its money in bedrooms and home offices. That sits under internal door installation and replacement.

Entry doors carry weather, security and appearance obligations simultaneously, so they cost $800 to $2,500 supplied and installed and considerably more for custom or pivot designs. Material choice sets the maintenance for the next twenty years, with solid timber needing recoating on a cycle and composite or fibreglass resisting weather almost indefinitely. Coastal exposure punishes both finishes and hardware. Options sit under front entry door installation and replacement.

Frames are the hidden cost in hinged door work and the item that most often turns a modest job into a substantial one. Hanging a leaf into a sound frame is an hour or two, while replacing the frame means architraves off, jamb out, new frame packed and fixed square, then plaster patching and painting to follow. The rot usually starts at the base of an external jamb where water has sat, and termite damage in NSW frames presents as timber that gives under a screwdriver.

Weather sealing belongs on every external hinged door and is regularly omitted. Seals at the head and both sides, a threshold seal at the bottom and a sill that sheds water away are what keep both draughts and driven rain out, and their absence is the origin of most rotten frames. The comfort difference in a windy coastal or tableland location is immediate. Sealing generally sits under draught proofing and sealing.

Undercut at the floor matters more than it sounds, particularly in wet areas. A door with no gap beneath it starves an exhaust fan of the air it needs to draw, which is a common reason bathrooms stay damp despite a working fan. New flooring laid over old frequently leaves doors dragging and needing trimming. Both are quick jobs and sit under door repairs and adjustments.

Sliding, Cavity and Folding Doors

Sliding doors fail through their running gear rather than their leaves, and the symptoms are consistent. A door that has become heavy to move, that judders along its travel, that has dropped so it catches at one end, or that will not lock because the leaf no longer aligns with the keeper is reporting worn rollers, a damaged track or both. Replacing rollers and servicing the track runs $250 to $700 depending on the weight of the door.

Track damage is the complication that decides whether a repair is simple. Aluminium tracks in older sliding doors wear a groove where the rollers run, and once that has happened new rollers alone will not restore smooth operation. The remedy is a capping track fitted over the damaged one, which is a standard and effective repair, or replacement of the track entirely. Grit and sand are the usual cause, and coastal properties therefore see more of it. That work sits under sliding door installation and repairs.

Cavity sliders disappear into the wall and are excellent until something fails. When a roller goes, the leaf jumps its track or the door rubs inside the cavity, reaching the mechanism usually means removing the jamb and sometimes opening the wall lining, then patching and painting afterwards. That is why a fault costing fifteen minutes on an exposed track becomes $300 to $900 here. It is worth knowing before choosing one, and repairs sit under cavity slider installation and repairs.

Bifold and stacker systems handle wide openings and carry more hardware than any other door type, which gives them more to go wrong. Pivots wear, guides break, panels drop out of alignment and the folding action becomes stiff. Adjustment is often all that is required and runs $200 to $600, while a full hardware replacement on a large stacker is considerably more. These systems reward periodic cleaning and lubrication, and they sit under stacker and bifold door installation and repairs.

Sliding wardrobe doors are the most commonly neglected doors in a house and among the cheapest to fix. Doors come off their top track, bottom guides snap, and mirrored panels crack or lose their backing. Repairs run $150 to $450 and rarely justify replacing a whole set, since the components are usually available. That work sits under sliding wardrobe door installation and repairs.

Barn door arrangements have grown popular precisely because they avoid the cavity slider problem. The leaf hangs from an exposed track above the opening, so every component is accessible and replaceable in minutes. The trade offs are that the door covers wall space when open, sound and light leak around the edges, and the track must be fixed into structure rather than plasterboard. Installation sits under barn door and track installation.

Garage Doors

Garage doors are the heaviest moving object in a house and they deserve to be treated that way. A sectional panel door weighs well over a hundred kilograms, and the springs that counterbalance it store enough energy to cause serious injury when released without control. This is the reason garage door work is its own trade rather than a subset of carpentry, and the reason a household should not attempt adjustments to springs or cables.

Door types differ enough that diagnosis depends on knowing which you have. Sectional doors run in horizontal tracks and fold as they rise, tilt doors pivot as a single panel, and roller doors coil into a drum above the opening. Each uses different hardware and different spring arrangements, and parts are frequently not interchangeable between manufacturers. Age matters too, since older systems occasionally have no parts supply remaining.

Common failures are predictable and mostly mechanical. Broken springs, frayed or snapped cables, worn rollers, damaged panels from vehicle contact, misaligned tracks and failed motors account for most callouts. A door that has become noticeably heavier to lift by hand, that closes faster than it should, or that has one side sitting lower than the other is warning you about the counterbalance system, and continuing to operate it makes matters worse rather than better.

Motors and automation add a second layer of components and their own failure modes. Openers wear out, drive belts and chains stretch, travel limits drift out of adjustment and remotes lose their programming. Replacement runs $500 to $1,200 including removal of the old unit. Modern openers include a safety reversal function that stops and reverses the door when it meets an obstruction, and testing that it works is a genuinely important annual check in a household with children or pets.

Electrical work associated with a garage door is separate again and licensed. Installing a new power outlet for an opener, running a circuit to a detached garage or any hardwired connection is electrical work requiring a licensed electrician in NSW, and licence status can be checked with NSW Fair Trading. The opener itself plugs in, so most motor replacements involve no electrical work at all, though adding an outlet where none exists sits under power point installation.

Emergency door work is its own category and worth knowing about before you need it. A front door that will not lock, a broken glass panel, a garage door stuck open overnight or a lock damaged in an attempted entry all leave a property insecure, and most trades offer an after hours response for a premium of $100 to $250 on the callout. The sensible sequence is to secure the property temporarily, whether by boarding a broken panel or by an emergency lock change, then arrange the permanent repair during normal hours at the standard rate.

Maintenance genuinely extends the life of a garage door and costs almost nothing, and it is worth arranging alongside any other work through garage door installation and repairs. Keeping tracks clean, lubricating rollers and hinges, checking the door balances correctly when disconnected from the opener, and testing the safety reversal each year prevent most of the expensive failures. Coastal properties should add a fresh water rinse of the door and hardware, since salt attacks springs, cables and fixings well before it affects the panels.

Screens and Security Doors

Flyscreen doors and security doors look similar and are entirely different products. A flyscreen door is a light frame carrying mesh, keeps insects out, costs $150 to $400 and provides no security whatsoever. A security door is a tested assembly manufactured to Australian Standards for security screen doors, with a stronger frame, tamper resistant fixings and mesh designed to resist attack, and costs $600 to $1,600 supplied and installed.

The distinction matters most when someone proposes modifying one. Certified security doors are tested as complete assemblies, so cutting an opening into one after manufacture, whether for a pet door or anything else, is likely to void both the certification and the manufacturer warranty. Where a security door needs a pet opening, the correct route is a door manufactured with it built in. That work sits under security pet door installation.

Mesh type determines what a screen actually does. Fibreglass and aluminium insect mesh keeps bugs out. Stainless steel woven mesh in a security door resists cutting and impact. Perforated aluminium sheet offers security with better privacy and airflow characteristics. Pet resistant mesh is heavier and withstands a dog pushing against it, which is worth specifying where an animal uses the door area regularly, covered under pet proof flyscreen installation.

Repairs are cheap and worth doing rather than replacing whole units. Rescreening a torn flyscreen costs a fraction of a new door, worn rollers on a sliding screen are inexpensive, and bent frames can often be straightened. Where the frame itself has corroded, which happens quickly in coastal positions, replacement becomes the better answer. Window screen work sits under window flyscreen repairs.

Corrosion is the defining issue for screens across coastal NSW and it decides product choice more than price should. Salt attacks aluminium frames, mesh and especially the fixings that hold them, so properties within a few kilometres of the ocean from the northern beaches through to Cronulla and down the south coast need marine grade specification rather than standard product. Rinsing screens with fresh water a few times a year extends their life noticeably.

Bushfire prone land adds requirements for screens across a large part of NSW, including the Blue Mountains, the Southern Highlands, the south coast, the Hunter and Sydney's fringes. Construction requirements in those areas address ember attack, and screening with appropriate mesh over openings is part of that protection. Products designed for these areas sit under bushfire security screens, and general fire safety guidance is published by Fire and Rescue NSW.

Hardware and Glazing

Hardware is the cheapest part of a door and the part that determines whether it keeps working. Hinges, handles, locks, closers, stops and seals are all inexpensive individually and all cause disproportionate trouble when they fail. Two hinges on a heavy solid core door will pull out of the jamb within a few years where three would not, and that is a five dollar decision with a several hundred dollar consequence.

Screw length is the single most consequential hardware detail and almost nobody considers it. The short screws supplied with most hinges and strike plates reach only into the jamb, which is thin timber packed off the structural frame behind it. Replacing them with screws long enough to reach that framing improves both the door's resistance to dropping and the frame's resistance to being forced. It costs a few dollars and takes ten minutes on any door.

Locks and keying deserve thinking about at a whole of house level rather than door by door. Rekeying so one key opens every external door, upgrading to deadlocks, or moving to a digital or smart lock are all decisions better made once than piecemeal. Lock installation sits under lock installation, and electronic options under digital and smart lock installation.

Glazing in doors is regulated for a straightforward reason. The Australian Standard covering glass in buildings, published by Standards Australia, requires safety glazing in doors and in the panels alongside them, because people walk into them and ordinary glass breaks into shards. A broken sidelight cannot be reglazed with float glass, and any new glazed door must use compliant material.

Toughened glass has a property worth understanding before you plan anything involving a glass door. It is made by heating and rapidly cooling the surface, leaving the outer faces in compression, and any cut, drill or grind that breaches that surface releases the stored stress and shatters the entire pane instantly. That is why a pet door cannot be added to an existing glass door and why a replacement panel must be made with any opening already formed, covered under glass door pet door installation.

Door stops are the best value item in this entire category. A stop fixed to the floor or skirting prevents a handle punching through plasterboard, which is among the most common repairs in rental properties and a recurring cost in family homes. They cost a few dollars each and take a minute to fit. Fitting them throughout a house while a tradesperson is already on site is the sort of small decision that pays for itself repeatedly.

Fire Doors, Glass, Pools and Bushfire

Fire rated doors must not be modified and this restriction outranks everything else in door work. Entry doors to apartments in NSW residential buildings are commonly fire doors carrying a certified rating, identified by a tag on the hinge edge of the leaf, and the door between an attached garage and a house sometimes is too. Planing, cutting, fitting uncertified hardware or replacing one with an ordinary door voids the certification.

The consequence falls on the lot owner rather than the tradesperson, which is why checking takes priority over everything else in an apartment. A modified fire door generally has to be replaced or recertified at a cost well beyond the original job, and the failure appears when the building's fire safety measures are assessed for its annual statement. Look at the hinge edge before agreeing to any work at all.

Pool barriers carry a restriction that matters more than any of this because it concerns children. Doors and gates forming part of a swimming pool barrier in NSW must be self closing and self latching, and nothing may be done to a door in that barrier which compromises it, including fitting a pet door, propping it open or disabling the closer. Pools must be registered and are subject to inspection, with the register accessible through Service NSW.

Egress is the counterweight to security and applies to every home. Double cylinder deadlocks requiring a key to open from inside have contributed to deaths in Australian house fires because a key cannot be found in smoke and darkness. If your home has them, keep a key permanently on a hook within reach of the door or move to hardware that opens from inside without one. In apartment buildings, common area and fire stair doors must not be locked against escape, and hardware choices on your own entry sit under lock installation.

Bushfire prone land affects external doors across much of NSW and the requirements address ember attack. Doors need to be tight fitting with gaps sealed, screening may be required, and materials and glazing are specified according to the assessed attack level for the property. This matters most when replacing an external door rather than repairing one, and the property's status should be established before a product is ordered. Screening products designed for those areas sit under bushfire security screens.

Licensing applies once door work grows past a single job. Residential building work in NSW above the prescribed value must be carried out by an appropriately licensed contractor under a written contract, and while replacing one door sits well below that, a whole house with frames and making good may not. Where a dispute with a trader cannot be resolved, it can be taken to NCAT.

What Drives the Price

Which trade attends is the first variable and the one you control. Five different trades handle door work and each charges a callout, so on a job worth a couple of hundred dollars the attendance is most of the bill and calling the wrong one first roughly doubles the total. Describing the problem accurately when you enquire lets the operator tell you whether it is theirs, which good ones will do rather than attending anyway.

Whether the frame or the wall is involved is the second and largest technical factor. Working on a leaf is straightforward. Replacing a frame means architraves, plaster and paint. Opening a wall for a cavity slider or widening an opening is building work. Each step up multiplies the labour, and it is why two jobs described identically over the phone can differ by a thousand dollars once someone has looked.

Parts availability decides the sliding and garage door jobs. Rollers, tracks, springs, cables and operators vary between manufacturers and generations, and older systems occasionally have no supply remaining, at which point a repairable door becomes a replacement. Asking whether parts are available for your specific system before authorising a diagnosis is worth doing, particularly on anything more than fifteen years old.

Quantity is the strongest lever available and it is underused. Travel, setup and the minimum charge land on the first door, and every additional door, adjustment, hardware change and stop costs only the time it takes. Households replacing internal doors throughout a house pay substantially less per door than a single door costs, and the same applies to adjustments across a whole house.

Compliance can remove the cheap option entirely and it is better to know beforehand. A fire rated door cannot be planed or swapped for an ordinary one. A glazed door cannot be modified. A door in a pool barrier cannot have anything done to it that compromises the barrier. An external door on bushfire prone land is not a free choice of product. None of these are common, and each is expensive to discover after the fact.

Access and finishes affect time in smaller ways that still add up. Upper floors, tight hallways, doors opening onto tiles where the undercut must be precise, and older homes with decades of paint on the jambs all take longer. Typical rates for the trades involved sit under the carpentry pricing guide, and smaller jobs frequently sit with handyman services at a lower rate than a specialist.

Door Service Costs Across Sydney

All five trades involved in door work are well represented across the metropolitan area, so rates stay keen and most jobs are attended within a week or two. What differs across the city is the housing stock, since that determines whether openings are standard, how much glass and sliding hardware is involved, and whether the property is strata titled with the restrictions that brings.

Coastal exposure is the factor that most affects door hardware across Sydney and it is regularly underestimated. Salt attacks sliding door rollers and tracks, screen frames and mesh, hinges, locks and garage door springs and cables, and properties within a couple of kilometres of the ocean see failures years earlier than inland ones. Sand carried indoors also grinds sliding tracks, so beachside homes need track cleaning as routine maintenance rather than a repair, and screen frames in those positions wear just as fast, which is covered under flyscreens and security screens.

Apartment living shapes the inner city and lower north shore in ways that catch owners out. The entry door to a lot in a NSW strata scheme is generally common property rather than part of the lot, so replacing it or altering its hardware is not an individual decision, and that door is frequently fire rated as well. Internal doors within the lot are unrestricted, which makes them the sensible place to spend money. Building access for tradespeople often needs arranging through the building manager.

Door Services in Regional NSW

Newcastle, the Hunter, the Central Coast and the Illawarra support every relevant trade, stock standard products locally, and price much as the city does. Beyond those centres availability rather than price is the constraint, because specialist screen manufacture, glazing and made to measure doors come from a larger centre with freight and lead time attached. Combining jobs into a single attendance counts for more here than anywhere else.

Trade coverage is the practical constraint outside the major centres. A town may have several carpenters and no glazier, or a garage door technician who visits on set days each month. That changes how you should plan, since a job that would be attended tomorrow in Sydney may need booking around a scheduled run. Asking about lead times when you first enquire avoids the frustration of discovering them later.

Older regional housing brings non standard openings and termite damage into door work more often than metropolitan stock does. Homes predating the current Australian door sizes need made to measure leaves, which are ordered and freighted. Door jambs sit at floor level with end grain near the ground, making them a common point of termite attack, and a jamb that gives under a screwdriver needs proper assessment rather than filler, covered under termite inspection.

Climate produces different door problems in different parts of the state. The north coast combines heat with high humidity, swelling timber doors reliably each summer. The tablelands and Snowy region see cold dry winters that shrink timber and open draught gaps. Inland areas with wide daily temperature swings are hardest on finishes and seals. Sealing all six edges of a timber door, including the top and bottom, slows moisture movement considerably in any of those conditions.

Grouping work is the single most effective saving outside a major centre. A tradesperson travelling an hour has to price that trip, and the same visit covering several doors, adjustments, hardware and unrelated small repairs spreads it across everything. Walk the house first and try every door, including the ones you have unconsciously learned to push harder, since those are usually the ones that need attention.

What to Look Out For

Establish which trade you need before booking anything. Describing the symptom accurately over the phone lets a good operator tell you whether the job is theirs, and the ones who say it is not are doing you a favour. Be wary of anyone who agrees to attend regardless of what you describe, because a callout that ends in a recommendation to call someone else is a fee for nothing.

Never attempt work on garage door springs or cables, and be wary of anyone offering to do it who is not a garage door specialist. The stored energy in a counterbalance system is enough to cause serious injury, and this is one of the few genuinely dangerous jobs in domestic maintenance. A door that has become heavy to lift, that closes too fast or that sits unevenly is warning you, and continuing to operate it makes matters worse.

Check the hinge edge of an apartment entry door for a fire rating tag before agreeing to any work. A fire door must not be planed, cut or refitted with uncertified hardware, the failure surfaces when the building's fire safety measures are assessed, and the cost of replacement or recertification falls on the lot owner. The same caution applies to the door between an attached garage and a house.

Ask whether making good is included on anything involving a frame or a wall, since patching through plastering and gyprock repairs is otherwise yours to arrange. Architraves seldom come off cleanly, plaster gets damaged and new timber needs painting to match. A quote that stops at a working door and leaves you to arrange a plasterer and a painter is not comparable with one that finishes the job. Get the answer in writing rather than assuming either way.

Be cautious about repeated adjustments to doors in a house that is moving. Where several doors and windows in the same area have become difficult over the same period, or diagonal cracking runs from the corners of openings, the building is the problem rather than the joinery, which is common on reactive clay soils across western Sydney. Continuing to plane doors is maintenance without end, and a structural assessment costs less than four rounds of carpentry.

Confirm licensing and insurance appropriate to the work. Residential building work in NSW above the prescribed value requires a licensed contractor and a written contract, electrical work associated with garage door power requires a licensed electrician, and public liability cover matters on any job involving the building fabric. Your entitlement to work performed with due care and skill is a consumer guarantee overseen by the ACCC.

What to Look for in a Quote in NSW

Ask for the trade, the scope and the product to be named rather than accepting a lump sum. It should say what is being repaired or supplied, whether the frame or wall is involved, whether hardware is reused or new, whether making good and painting are covered, what parts are required and whether they are in stock, and what warranty applies to labour and parts. Making good and parts availability are what usually go unmentioned.

Brief each operator identically. Say which door it is and what type, describe exactly what it is doing and when it started, give the approximate age of the house, note any glazing, fire rating tag or unusual hardware, and mention whether the property is a house or an apartment. Photographs of the door, the frame and the hardware do most of the work, and a short video of a sliding or garage door in motion is worth more again.

An operator who asks good questions and is candid about scope is worth more than a low figure. Someone who asks when the problem started, whether other doors are affected, what the floor covering is and whether parts might be needed has done this before. Anyone quoting firmly from a one line description has assumed the simplest possible version of the job.

Book everything together, since it is the largest saving available in this category by a wide margin. Walk the whole house first and list every door that binds, every loose handle, every torn flyscreen and every missing door stop. Travel and the minimum charge are covered on the first item and everything after costs only the time it takes. Get each element priced individually so you can stage the work if you would rather.

Settle the trade, the scope, the parts and the making good before anyone starts. Confirm in writing what is being done and by whom, agree what happens if a part is unavailable or the frame turns out to be involved, establish who patches and paints, and check for a fire rating tag if the property is an apartment. Then fit door stops throughout while someone is on site. The full range sits together on the door services hub, with hinged door pricing under door installation and repairs.