Door Widening in SA?
Tell us the current opening width, the wall construction and which doorways are causing trouble and we'll connect you with South Australian builders.
Typical Door Widening Costs SA
Figures on this page are indicative 2026 SA estimates only and vary with wall construction and whether the wall carries load, the presence of services in the wall, door and hardware specification, flooring and threshold work, making good and painting, and any approval or engineering input required. Quotes should always be obtained for your specific property. Building, accessibility, licensing and consumer protection requirements are set by legislation, the National Construction Code and Australian Standards and are periodically updated, so confirm the current position with the relevant authority and your builder before relying on any figure.
Door Widening Services SA 2026 - Get Quotes
Measure the clear opening and not the door, because they are not the same number and the difference decides whether you need structural work at all. An 820mm door leaf hung on standard butt hinges gives roughly 770mm of actual passage once the open door sits in the way, and the stops and the frame take a little more. That gap between nominal and clear is exactly where swing clear hinges do their work, since they fold the door out of the opening and recover most of the width for $150 to $400 a door. Plenty of South Australian households have been quoted thousands for structural widening when the doorway needed better hinges and a lever handle. Work out the clear width first, try the cheap measures, and reserve the building work for the openings that genuinely cannot be fixed any other way. Two other things change the answer more than width does. Watch how somebody actually turns into the doorway, because a chair arriving at an angle from a narrow hallway needs considerably more room than one rolling straight through, and widening the door alone will not fix a corridor. And walk the whole route marking every threshold and floor level change, since a lip where carpet meets tile stops castors dead and costs a fraction of structural work to resolve. Post your job on The Quote Yard to reach South Australian builders and carpenters.
At a Glance - Options From Cheapest Up
| Approach | Cost | Width Gained | Building Work | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Swing clear hinges | $150 - $400 | Around 40 to 50mm | None | Openings a little too tight |
| Remove the door entirely | Minimal | Same as above, plus clearance | None | Where privacy is not needed |
| Rehang to swing outward | $250 - $600 | Frees the room side | Minor | Small bathrooms and toilets |
| Cavity slider retrofit | $1,800 - $4,500 | Full opening, no swing | Wall opened up | Tight approach space |
| Widen, non load bearing | $900 - $2,500 | Whatever is specified | Framing altered | Internal partition walls |
| Widen, load bearing | $2,500 - $6,000 | Whatever is specified | Lintel and propping | Where nothing else works |
Clear Opening, and Why the Door Size Misleads
The measurement that matters is taken with the door fully open, from the face of the open leaf across to the opposite door stop. That is the space a wheelchair, a walking frame or somebody on crutches actually has to pass through.
Standard butt hinges hold the open door partly inside the opening, so a nominal 820mm door typically yields around 770mm clear. Swing clear hinges, sometimes called offset or parallel hinges, carry the leaf clear of the frame when open and recover most of that lost width without touching a single stud.
Approach matters as much as width, and it is the part households measure least. A doorway at the end of a narrow hallway requires the chair to turn as it enters, which needs considerably more clear width than the same door approached straight on. Where a corridor is tight, widening the door alone may not solve the problem and the practical answer is sometimes a cavity slider, a different route through the house or removing the door altogether. The clear opening comes first, then a moment spent in the approach watching how the turn actually happens.
Measuring the Opening Properly
The measurement is taken with the door fully open, from the face of the leaf to the opposite stop. That figure gives you the clear opening, which describes what somebody can actually pass through. Hinges beat saws here. The clear opening is the figure that counts, not the door size. A household comparing three quotes on the same doorway will usually find the spread traces to whether the load question and the making good were assessed properly.
Two numbers matter here, not one. A household that gets the measuring right at the outset avoids the common outcome, which is paying for structural work that changed very little. The households who spend least are the ones who worked out which doorways genuinely needed opening up and which needed a hundred and fifty dollars of hardware. Approaches to this vary noticeably between contractors, so compare more than one. Where the corridor is genuinely narrow, no width at the doorway alone resolves the turn and the honest answer involves a slider or a different route through the house.
The nominal door size belongs alongside it. Knowing you have an 820mm leaf giving 770mm clear tells a builder immediately what kind of intervention is in play. Corridors decide outcomes. An 820mm leaf on ordinary butt hinges gives about 770mm of usable passage, and that fifty millimetre shortfall is exactly what offset hinges recover for a couple of hundred dollars instead of a couple of thousand. Original architraves removed carefully and reused on the wider opening keep the character of a period room that a modern moulding would lose entirely.
Builders take different views on how far to take this. Contractors quoting this work should be able to say what clear opening the household will end up with, and one who quotes a door size instead has answered a different question. Measuring the clear opening, the approach and every threshold along the route takes half an hour with a tape and changes the entire conversation with a builder. Flagging it early makes the quotes considerably easier to compare. Contractors who ask what equipment is being used, and how wide it actually is, are sizing the job against the person rather than against a generic figure.
The approach on both sides needs measuring too. Entering head on takes less room than arriving at an angle from a narrow corridor. The load question comes next. The nominal door size and the clear opening describe different things, and a household that knows both can tell a builder in one sentence whether they are looking at a hinge swap or a wall coming out.
Builders doing this work regularly raise it unprompted. Anybody who has done these across the older Adelaide suburbs will reach for the hinges before the reciprocating saw, because the result is usually the same and the cost is not. An internal wall in an older Adelaide home with cut roof framing can be carrying struts that prop the roof above, which nothing visible from the hallway will tell you. Most will explain the reasoning on site if asked.
Measurements taken with the actual equipment beat generic figures. A wheelchair, a walking frame or a shower commode each have different widths and turning behaviour. A tape settles most of it. The door swing and where it lands matter as much.
A door opening into a small bathroom consumes floor space the person needs to turn in. The wider modification is covered at accessible bathroom renovation. Half an hour measuring clear openings, approach widths and every threshold along the route gives a builder more usable information than a site visit spent guessing at what the household needs. Builders differ on how they frame this at quoting stage.
The threshold deserves a look while you are there. A lip at the floor is a separate problem from width and it is usually cheaper to solve. Period homes need care. AS 1428 sets out clear opening widths and circulation spaces for accessible design.
Its provisions apply to public and certain other buildings, and they are a sound reference for domestic work even where not mandated. Copies of the standard are available through Standards Australia. Four panel doors, moulded architraves and original hardware cannot be matched once they are cut out, which is the strongest argument for trying offset hinges on an inner suburb property before anything else. Most builders will walk the doorway with you if asked.
| Measurement | How to Take It | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Clear opening | Door fully open, leaf face to stop | The only width that counts |
| Nominal door size | Read the leaf width | Tells a builder what you have |
| Approach width | Corridor or room either side | Turning needs more than straight entry |
| Door swing path | Arc the open door sweeps | Consumes floor space |
| Threshold height | Floor level change at the door | Separate problem, cheaper fix |
| Equipment width | Measure the actual chair or frame | Generic figures may not suit |
What to Try Before Structural Work
Swing clear hinges at $150 to $400 a door, available from Bellevue and Zanda among others, are the first thing to price. They carry the open leaf out of the opening and typically recover forty to fifty millimetres without any building work. Removing the door entirely costs almost nothing. Plenty of internal doorways exist out of habit and not need, and a doorway with no door is the widest version of itself. The disappointment surfaces after the work when a household discovers the corridor was the constraint all along and the wider door changed very little.
Rehanging a door to open outward frees the room it was opening into. It suits small bathrooms and separate toilets particularly, where the swing eats the turning space. Hanging and fitting work sits at door installation. Replacing a hinged door with a cavity slider, using a system such as CS Cavity Sliders or Hume, removes the swing entirely. It costs more at $1,800 to $4,500 because the wall has to be opened, and it transforms a tight approach.
A surface mounted sliding door on a track avoids opening the wall. It is less tidy visually and considerably cheaper than a cavity slider, which makes it worth considering. Changing the hardware solves more than people expect. A lever handle instead of a knob, or a D pull on a slider, makes a door usable for somebody with limited grip. On a stone or double brick internal wall the job stops being carpentry and becomes masonry, with a heavier lintel and considerably more making good either side.
Trimming architraves back can buy a few millimetres. It is marginal and it occasionally makes the difference between fitting and not. Reusing or replacing the trim is covered at skirting boards and architraves. A tape measure settles it before anybody visits. Where original joinery would be lost in a period home, a contractor raising that before cutting is giving better advice than one who simply prices the opening.
| Measure | Cost | What It Solves |
|---|---|---|
| Swing clear hinges | $150 - $400 | Recovers lost clear width |
| Remove the door | Minimal | Width and swing together |
| Rehang to swing out | $250 - $600 | Frees floor space inside |
| Surface mounted slider | Moderate | Removes swing, wall stays shut |
| Cavity slider | $1,800 - $4,500 | Full opening, tidiest result |
| Lever handles and D pulls | $80 - $300 | Grip and operation |
Load Bearing or Not, Which Decides the Price
The single biggest variable in a widening quote is whether the wall holds anything up. A non load bearing partition is straightforward carpentry, while a load bearing wall needs a lintel sized for the span and temporary propping while it goes in.
A few indicators help households understand what they are dealing with before a builder arrives, though none of them is conclusive and the assessment belongs to somebody qualified. Walls running perpendicular to the ceiling joists are more likely to be carrying load than those running parallel with them. External walls almost always carry load. A wall sitting directly below another wall on an upper floor is a strong indicator. Walls with a thickened slab or a footing beneath them in a slab on ground home are carrying something. And in older Adelaide housing with traditional cut roof framing, internal walls sometimes carry struts propping the roof structure above, which is not obvious from below and is a genuine reason to have somebody look in the roof space before cutting anything. Where a wall does carry load, engineering advice at $500 to $1,500 specifies the lintel and the propping, and that cost is not an upsell but the difference between a safe alteration and a serious problem. Structural work sits at home extensions and framing at carpentry services.
Widening the Opening Itself
A non load bearing internal wall at $900 to $2,500 is the straightforward case. The studs are cut, a new opening is framed, and the wall is made good either side. The cheap fixes come first. A load bearing wall at $2,500 to $6,000 needs a lintel and propping. The span, the load above and the wall construction all determine what is required.
Solid double brick walls behave differently from framed ones. Cutting a wider opening in masonry means a heavier lintel and more making good, and the work is slower. Swing clear hinges, a rehung door and a lever handle between them cost a few hundred dollars and resolve a surprising proportion of doorways that a builder would otherwise quote thousands to widen. Households who measure first get a far more accurate quote. A builder who asks to watch the person move through the doorway is assessing the thing that actually determines whether the work helps.
Widening usually means the door and frame are replaced entirely. A new door, frame, architraves and hardware belong in the budget, since the existing leaf rarely suits a wider opening. Making good extends further than people expect. Patching, cornice repair, flooring at the threshold and painting both sides all follow the carpentry. The spread between quotes on this job usually traces to the load question and the making good, neither of which is visible in a headline figure.
Patching and sheeting sits at plasterboard installation. Whether approval is required needs settling early. Structural alterations may need building consent depending on what is being changed, and the council is the place to confirm it. Building information for the state is published at sa.gov.au.
What Is Inside the Wall
Light switches beside a doorway mean wiring in that wall. Moving a switch is straightforward electrical work and it needs a licensed electrician and not a carpenter. Power points on either face of the wall tell you the same thing. The circuit has to be rerouted before the framing changes. Moving switches and rerouting circuits sits at electrical services.
Walls adjoining bathrooms, kitchens and laundries frequently carry plumbing. Pipework inside a wall being altered needs a plumber and it changes both the cost and the sequence. Load changes the price. Ducted heating and cooling runs inside some internal walls. A duct passing through the area being opened up has to be rerouted instead of cut through.
Older homes may hold surprises worth identifying early. Redundant wiring, old gas pipework and unexpected framing all turn up once a wall is opened. A partition wall is carpentry and a load bearing wall needs a lintel sized for the span with temporary propping while it goes in, which is the single largest variable in any widening quote. Two doorways of the same size can need different answers.
Asbestos is a genuine consideration in homes built before the late 1980s. Wall sheeting, backing boards and some linings may contain it and it should be identified before anything is cut. The floor matters too. Testing before anything is cut sits at asbestos inspection. The wall should be investigated before the quote is finalised.
A small inspection hole costs almost nothing and prevents a variation halfway through. Smaller jobs around it sit at handyman services. Thresholds, tile edges at wet areas and level changes between rooms added over decades stop castors dead, and households regularly find those were the real obstacle rather than the width. It separates a considered quote from a standard rate.
| Clue | What It Suggests | Who Is Needed |
|---|---|---|
| Light switch beside the door | Wiring in that wall | Licensed electrician |
| Power points either face | Circuit running through | Licensed electrician |
| Wall adjoins a wet area | Plumbing inside | Licensed plumber |
| Ducted heating in the house | Possible duct in the wall | HVAC contractor |
| Built before the late 1980s | Possible asbestos materials | Licensed assessor |
| Nothing visible | Still worth an inspection hole | Builder, before quoting |
Thresholds and Floor Levels, the Cheap Problem Worth Fixing First
Households concentrate on width and frequently discover that the actual obstacle was the floor. A lip at a doorway stops small castors dead, catches the toe of a walking frame and is the most common trip point in a house. Several versions turn up across South Australian housing. External doors typically sit above a step or a weather bar, which a threshold ramp at $150 to $600 addresses without touching the door. Bathroom doorways often have a tile edge or a waterproofing hob where the wet area meets the hallway, and that one needs care because the membrane is doing a job. Older Adelaide homes where rooms were added over decades frequently have small floor level changes between sections that nobody notices until somebody is using wheels. Transitions between floor coverings, particularly carpet meeting tile or timber, create a lip that a proper transition strip resolves cheaply. And a door undercut too tight to new flooring is a different issue again, which matters for ventilation as well as movement. The practical approach is to walk the route somebody actually takes with the equipment they actually use and mark every level change, then price those separately from any widening, because a household sometimes finds that the thresholds were the whole problem. Flooring transitions sit at flooring and slip resistance at non slip floor coating.
Older Adelaide Homes and the Doors They Came With
Pre war housing across the inner Adelaide suburbs presents the hardest version of this problem and also the one where the cheap fixes earn their keep most. Internal doorways in those homes are commonly narrower than anything built since, hallways are often tight, and the walls are sometimes solid stone or double brick rather than framed, which turns a carpentry job into a masonry one with a heavier lintel and far more making good. Original joinery is the other consideration, because four panel doors, moulded architraves and original hardware are part of what makes those houses what they are, and once they are cut out they cannot be matched easily. Several approaches respect that. Swing clear hinges preserve the original door and frame entirely while recovering most of the lost width, which is the single best outcome available in a period home. A door taken off its hinges and stored can be rehung by a future owner, where a widened opening cannot be undone. Where widening is unavoidable, having the original architraves carefully removed and reused on the wider opening keeps the character. And where a property carries a heritage listing or sits in a historic conservation zone, altering original internal joinery may engage those provisions, so a call to the council before the work takes only a few minutes. Reframing and trimming work sits at carpentry services.
Getting the Floor Right
Walking the whole route with the equipment comes before any decision. Level changes between rooms are easy to miss on foot and impossible to miss on wheels. Watch the actual turn. A threshold ramp at $150 to $600 handles a step at an external door. It is removable, it needs no building work and it solves a real obstacle.
Transition strips between floor coverings cost very little. Carpet meeting tile is a classic lip and a proper strip removes it. Turning into a doorway from a corridor demands noticeably more room than rolling straight through, because the footplates and rear wheels catch the frame at an angle no tape measure reveals. Builders vary in how they present this at quoting stage.
Bathroom thresholds need more thought because waterproofing is involved. The hob or tile edge at a wet area doorway is holding water in, so it cannot simply be ground away. A level entry shower removes the largest threshold in most homes. It is a bigger job and it is often the one that matters most.
Level entry showers are covered at bathroom renovations. Floor coverings themselves affect movement. Thick carpet and deep pile make a chair harder to push, and a firmer surface improves things noticeably. Firmer surfaces that suit wheels are covered at floor tiling.
Doing the Whole House in the Right Order
Widening one doorway rarely stands alone, and households who work through the property as a route and not as a list of separate jobs get considerably more for the same money.
The sequence that works is to start with the journey somebody actually takes. From the vehicle to the front door, through the entry, along the hallway, into the bathroom, the bedroom and the living area, noting every point where movement stops or becomes difficult. That walk almost always reveals that the obstacles are not evenly weighted, and that one or two of them account for most of the difficulty. Address thresholds and floor transitions first because they are cheap and they affect the whole route. Then deal with hardware, since lever handles and D pulls cost little and make doors usable. Then try the no build options on the doorways that are tight, because swing clear hinges and a rehung door solve a surprising proportion of cases. Then look at approach space, which sometimes means moving furniture rather than building anything. Structural widening comes last and only on the openings that genuinely cannot be resolved any other way, which in most homes is one or two rather than all of them. A household following that order frequently finds the total cost lands under two thousand dollars, where one starting with a builder quoting to widen every internal door is looking at a very different number for a similar result.
Doors, Handles and How They Operate
Lever handles from Lockwood, Gainsborough or Bellevue suit almost everybody better than knobs. A knob requires grip and rotation together, which is exactly what arthritis and reduced hand strength take away. D pulls on sliding doors work where a recessed finger pull does not. A flush pull in a cavity slider is difficult for anybody with limited grip. Handle height matters alongside type. A handle set lower than standard suits somebody seated and it is free to specify on a new door.
Door weight affects how usable it is, and lighter hollow core leaves from Hume or Corinthian take noticeably less effort than solid core. A heavy solid core door takes real effort to open, and a lighter leaf makes a meaningful difference. Closers make doors harder to use and not easier. Where one is fitted for a reason, an adjustable closer set light is preferable to a strong one. Kick plates protect the bottom of a door from footplates and castors.
They are inexpensive and they prevent visible damage over time. Glazed panels or vision panels help where somebody cannot easily step back. Seeing through a door before opening it matters more than people assume. Finishing a new door and frame is covered at interior house painting.
| Item | Why It Helps | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Lever handle | No grip and twist required | $80 - $300 |
| D pull on a slider | Flush pulls need fine grip | Similar |
| Lower handle height | Suits somebody seated | Free to specify |
| Lighter door leaf | Less effort to swing | Part of the door |
| Kick plate | Protects against footplates | Low |
| Vision panel | See through before opening | Part of the door |
Assessment, Funding and Doing It in the Right Order
Door widening is rarely the only modification a household needs, and it is usually part of a set that works better planned together than piece by piece.
An occupational therapist assessment produces a specification against the actual person, the actual equipment and the actual house, and it regularly identifies that the doorway was not the real obstacle at all. Families frequently arrive convinced they need a wall opened up when the therapist finds the approach corridor, the door swing or a threshold was causing the difficulty. That specification is also what aged care and disability funding programmes generally want to see before work begins, so arranging a builder first can mean paying for something that would otherwise have been covered. Eligibility and programme details are administered nationally and change periodically, so confirming the current position directly is more reliable than acting on what applied previously. Where the need is immediate, the cheap measures buy time properly, since swing clear hinges, a rehung door and a threshold ramp can all be done within days for a few hundred dollars while the larger question is worked through. Related modifications sit at grab rail installation and wheelchair ramp installation.
| Ask Every Builder | Why It Matters | A Good Answer |
|---|---|---|
| Have you tried swing clear hinges | Cheapest fix, often enough | Priced and compared first |
| Is this wall load bearing | Doubles or trebles the cost | Assessed, roof space checked |
| What is inside the wall | Wiring and plumbing add trades | Investigated before quoting |
| Is making good included | Patching, cornice, flooring, paint | Itemised either way |
| What clear opening will I get | The number that matters | A figure, not a door size |
| Is approval required | Structural change may need it | Checked with the council |
Approach Space, Which Households Measure Last
Width at the doorway is only half the question and the approach either side decides whether that width is usable. A wheelchair entering a doorway straight on needs less clear opening than the same chair turning into it from a corridor, because the turn brings the footplates and the rear wheels into the frame at an angle. That is why a household can widen a door and find the situation barely improved. Several things are worth checking on the approach. Corridor width either side of the door governs how much of a turn is required, and an older Adelaide hallway can be genuinely tight. Furniture, hall tables and shoe racks narrow an approach without anybody registering it, and moving them costs nothing. A door that opens into the room being entered consumes the very space needed to complete the turn, which is why rehanging outward helps so often in small bathrooms. Two doorways close together, such as a bathroom and a bedroom off the same hall, can conflict with each other when both are open. And the direction somebody approaches from matters, so a household should watch the actual movement instead of assuming it is symmetrical. Where the approach turns out to be the real constraint, a cavity slider or removing the door entirely tends to deliver more than widening for less money.
Regional Considerations Across South Australia
Pre war Adelaide housing has narrow internal doorways as standard. Those homes also have solid stone or double brick internal walls in places, which makes widening a masonry job and not carpentry. Hallways in those homes are frequently narrow as well. Widening a door at the end of a tight corridor may not deliver what the household expected. Floor level changes are common where rooms were added over decades. Sleep outs, rear extensions and enclosed verandahs often sit at slightly different heights.
Post war and mid century homes are generally easier. Framed internal walls and slightly wider doorways mean more options at lower cost. Newer estate housing often has wider doorways already. The constraint there is more often the approach space in a compact floor plan than the door itself.
| Housing Era | Typical Situation | Usual Approach |
|---|---|---|
| Pre war inner suburbs | Narrow doors, solid walls | Try hinges first, masonry if not |
| Interwar and post war | Framed internal walls | Straightforward widening |
| Mid century | Mixed construction | Assess each wall |
| Newer estates | Wider doors, tight plan | Approach space is the constraint |
| Units and townhouses | Possible common property | Corporation consent first |
| Homes extended over time | Floor level changes | Fix thresholds before widening |
| Item | Cost | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Swing clear hinges | $150 - $400 | Price this first, always |
| Rehang door to swing out | $250 - $600 | Frees floor space inside |
| Widen, non load bearing | $900 - $2,500 | The common domestic job |
| Widen, load bearing | $2,500 - $6,000 | Lintel, propping, engineering |
| Cavity slider retrofit | $1,800 - $4,500 | Removes the swing entirely |
| Threshold and hardware | $80 - $600 | Worth doing regardless |
Rentals, Strata and Heritage Properties
Altering a doorway is a permanent change to a building, which raises a permission question that does not apply to a grab rail or a portable ramp.
In a private rental, widening a doorway needs the landlord's written agreement and it is a larger ask than most modifications because it cannot be reinstated cheaply. The conversation goes considerably better with a specific proposal and a quote attached, and it pays to lead with the cheaper alternatives, since a landlord who declines structural work may readily agree to swing clear hinges and a rehung door. In strata and community title properties, internal walls within a lot are usually the owner's, though a wall shared with another unit or a common area is not, and the corporation decides in that case. Heritage listed properties and contributory items in historic zones need care, particularly where original joinery, architraves or door hardware would be lost, and a council conversation before the work is cheaper than one afterwards. Public and community housing tenants should approach the provider directly, since accessibility modifications are commonly handled through an established pathway. Tenancy information is published by Consumer and Business Services, and an unresolved dispute has a pathway through SACAT.
What Door Widening Costs
Swing clear hinges at $150 to $400 a door are the cheapest useful item here. They should be priced before anything structural is considered. Rehanging a door at $250 to $600 changes the swing direction. It suits small bathrooms and toilets where the door consumes turning space. Widening a non load bearing opening at $900 to $2,500 covers framing, a new door and frame, and making good. That covers the common domestic version of this work.
Widening a load bearing opening at $2,500 to $6,000 adds the lintel, the propping and the engineering. Span and wall construction move it within that range. A cavity slider retrofit at $1,800 to $4,500 removes the swing entirely. It suits a tight approach where width alone will not solve the problem.
Threshold work at $150 to $600 and hardware at $80 to $300 round out most jobs. Both pay off regardless of whether widening goes ahead. A wider condition check is covered at building inspections. Raising it early gives a clearer comparison of quotes.
What to Look Out For
The clear opening needs measuring before any quote for structural work is accepted. The door size overstates what is actually available and the gap between them is often the whole problem. Insist that swing clear hinges are priced first. A builder who goes straight to opening a wall without mentioning them has skipped the cheapest answer. Have the wall assessed for load before work is scheduled. In older Adelaide homes with cut roof framing, an internal wall may be carrying roof struts.
Check what services run inside the wall. Wiring, plumbing and ducting each bring another trade and another cost. Confirm making good is in the quote. Guarantees sit with the ACCC and builder licensing with Consumer and Business Services.
How to Get Useful Quotes
Give the clear opening measurement and the nominal door size. Those two numbers together tell a builder most of what they need. Describe the wall construction if you know it. Framed plasterboard, double brick and stone are different jobs at different prices. Say what equipment is being used and its width. A wheelchair, a walking frame and a shower commode each behave differently.
Mention the approach on both sides. A tight corridor changes the recommendation more than the doorway itself does. Note any switches, power points or wet areas adjoining the wall. They signal services that affect the scope. Have each quote state the clear opening delivered, whether the wall is load bearing, what other trades are involved, whether making good is included and whether approval is needed. Pin down those five and the quotes become comparable, and wider modification work sits at accessible bathroom renovation.
Door Widening and Accessible Entry Across South Australia
We connect households with roof cleaning operators across South Australia for door widening, swing clear hinges, cavity sliders and threshold work, from inner Adelaide and the coastal suburbs through the plains and the Adelaide Hills, out to the Barossa, the Fleurieu, the Mid North and the South East.
▶ Adelaide City & Inner Suburbs 16 areas
▶ Adelaide Metro 13 areas
Eastern Suburbs
Western Suburbs
▶ Adelaide Northern Suburbs 15 areas
Inner North
North East
North & Playford
▶ Adelaide Southern Suburbs 19 areas
Inner South
South & Marion
Outer South & Onkaparinga
▶ Adelaide Hills 12 areas
Hills Face Zone
Outer Hills
▶ Adelaide Beaches 9 areas
Bay & Western Beaches
Port Adelaide & LeFevre
▶ Barossa & Clare Valley 10 areas
Barossa Valley
Clare Valley
Mid North
▶ Fleurieu Peninsula 7 areas
South Coast
Inland Fleurieu
▶ Yorke Peninsula 7 areas
Copper Coast
Southern Yorke
▶ Eyre Peninsula 8 areas
Upper Eyre
Lower Eyre & West Coast
▶ Limestone Coast 9 areas
Mount Gambier Region
Coonawarra & Penola
Upper Limestone Coast
▶ Riverland & Murray 8 areas
Riverland
Murray Bridge & Mallee
▶ Kangaroo Island 5 areas
▶ Flinders Ranges & Outback 9 areas
Southern Flinders
Flinders Ranges
Outback SA
Door Widening FAQs - SA 2026
What does door widening cost in SA?
How do I measure the clear opening?
What are swing clear hinges?
Is my wall load bearing?
Will widening the door actually solve it?
What about the step at the door?
Do I need council approval?
Can I widen a doorway in a rental?
What else is inside the wall?
Should I get an occupational therapy assessment?
Accessibility and Carpentry Specialists - SA
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