New Home Painting Costs SA 2026 - Get Free Quotes

New Home Painting Costs in South Australia

Painting a new South Australian home usually sits inside the build contract, with the embedded value running roughly $18 to $30 per square metre of floor area. Beyond that base, additional colours cost $150 to $600 per room as a variation, feature walls $200 to $450, a garage interior $600 to $1,500, and a full repaint after handover $3,500 to $9,000 for a three bedroom or $6,000 to $14,000 for a two storey. New construction is the cheapest painting per square metre you will ever buy, because there is nothing to prepare. What that contract covers is narrower than most buyers assume, which is where the variations come from. Read the inclusions schedule before signing rather than at handover.

No existing coating to assess, no chalk to stabilise, no cracks to rake out, no lead, no damp, no furniture to move. A painter walks into an empty shell and applies a sealer and two coats to surfaces that have never been touched. That is why builders can absorb it into a fixed price without it appearing as a meaningful line item, and it is also why the base specification is usually thinner than buyers assume. Which brings us to the thing worth reading before you sign. The inclusions schedule.

A typical volume builder's standard painting inclusion covers walls, ceilings and trim in a very small number of colours, often one wall colour throughout, white flat to ceilings and one colour on trim. Garages, eaves, external trim, the insides of some cupboards and any feature wall are frequently outside it. None of that is dishonest, it is simply what the price was built on, but people regularly discover it at colour selection when it is too late to be a negotiation. New construction also has one technical problem that older homes do not, and it produces the most common paint complaint in a new house. Fresh plasterboard and the jointing compound smeared over its joints absorb paint at different rates, and unless the surface is sealed properly first, the joints become visible through the finished paint under afternoon light.

Then there is the ground underneath. Adelaide sits on highly reactive clay soils, and a new slab and a drying timber frame both move in the first year or two. Some cracking is normal and expected rather than a defect, which is exactly why builders operate a maintenance period. This page covers the base specification, variations, using your own painter, plasterboard sealing, render curing, first year cracking, the maintenance period, handover checks and the build program. General interior work is covered in the SA interior painting guide, and broader background in the SA painters guide.

What the Builder's Base Spec Actually Covers

Every builder differs, so the only reliable source is your own inclusions schedule. What follows is the pattern most South Australian volume builds follow. Included almost always: internal walls, internal ceilings, internal doors and door frames, skirtings and architraves, and the external areas visible from the street such as eaves lining on some specifications and any rendered or clad surfaces that are not face brick. Included in a limited way: colours. A base specification commonly allows one wall colour throughout the house, ceilings in a standard flat white, and one trim colour. Some builders allow two wall colours, some allow a nominated range only, and almost all restrict you to a particular manufacturer's chart because they hold a supply agreement, most commonly with Dulux, Taubmans, Wattyl or Haymes.

Frequently excluded: garage interiors, the inside of the garage door, external trim on some specifications, eaves on others, the interiors of linen cupboards, robes and pantries, meter boxes, and anything described as a feature. Ask about each of these specifically rather than assuming a general answer covers them. None are obvious omissions until you walk through at handover. Ask the site supervisor rather than assuming.

Number of coats is the detail worth checking specifically. A proper specification reads as one sealer or primer plus two finish coats. Some base specifications read as two coats total including the sealer, which means a single finish coat, and that shows up as patchiness within a year or two as the film wears unevenly around switches and door frames. Ask three questions at colour selection: how many coats over the sealer, which surfaces are excluded, and whether the ceilings are the same product throughout including wet areas. Those three answers tell you what you have actually bought. Plasterboard installers hand over to the painter, and the quality of that handover directly affects the paint result regardless of what is in your schedule.

Reading the Inclusions Schedule Before You Sign

The inclusions schedule is the document that decides what your new home's paint job actually is, and it is written in a way that rewards careful reading rather than a quick scan. Builders are not being deceptive when they specify a base package, they are pricing a defined scope so that every buyer is quoted the same thing, but the scope is narrower than most buyers assume when they see the word painted. The gap between what you picture and what is written is where every variation invoice comes from. Reading it properly before signing costs nothing and is the single most useful hour you will spend on this part of the build.

Start by counting colours. A typical base specification allows one wall colour throughout, one ceiling colour in standard flat white, and one trim colour, all selected from a nominated manufacturer's chart rather than the full range. That is a coherent scheme and plenty of houses are finished exactly that way, but if you have been imagining a different colour in the main bedroom or a feature wall in the living area, each of those is a variation. Then look for what is missing rather than what is listed. Garage interiors, the inside face of the garage door, eaves, external trim, the insides of robes and the pantry are the six things most commonly excluded, and none of them are obvious omissions until you walk through at handover and see bare plasterboard. Ask the question specifically for each rather than assuming a general answer covers them.

Check how coats are described, because the language matters. A specification reading two coats total usually means one sealer or primer coat plus one finish coat, which is a single coat of colour rather than two. That is adequate on plasterboard with a good sealer and it is not what most buyers think they are getting, and the difference shows in depth of colour and in how the walls wear. Finally, note the product range nominated. Builders specify a particular manufacturer and often a builder grade line within it, and upgrading to a premium line across the house is one of the cheaper variations available relative to the difference it makes to washability and coverage. Ask what the upgrade costs before dismissing it.

Upgrades, Colours and Variation Costs

Variations through a builder carry a margin over the trade cost, which is normal commercial practice and worth factoring into your decision rather than being annoyed by. Typical variation pricing runs $150 to $600 per room for an additional wall colour, $200 to $450 for a feature wall, $400 to $1,500 to upgrade ceilings across the house beyond the base flat white, and $600 to $1,500 to have the garage interior painted. That margin buys coordination, a single contract and defects coverage, which is worth something on a build. Get it recorded in the variation schedule.

The arithmetic that matters is comparing a variation against having the same work done after handover. Two extra colours across five rooms might cost $900 to $2,500 as a variation. The same change made by your own painter in an empty house before you move furniture in often costs less, and you get a wider product choice. The counter argument is real though. Doing it during the build means it is done once, there is no second disruption, no second trade visit, and no risk of marking new floors and fittings that are already installed. Doing it after handover means painting around finished surfaces.

The sweet spot most people land on is to accept the base specification for the bulk of the house and pay for variations only where the base really will not do, then handle feature walls and the garage yourself later. Garage floor coating is often done at the same time as garage walls for exactly that reason. One thing to confirm before deciding: whether your contract allows anyone other than the builder's trades on site before handover. Most do not, and attempting to bring your own painter in during construction usually breaches the contract and the builder's insurance arrangements.

Variations Through the Builder or a Painter Afterwards

Once you know what the base specification excludes, the real decision is how to get the rest done, and there are only two routes. Pricing both before committing is worth the effort, because the gap between them is often larger than buyers expect and the trade-offs are not purely financial. Variations through the builder are the simple path and the dearer one. The builder's margin applies, the work is coordinated within the build program, and it is covered by the build contract and the defects liability period that follows. For a buyer who wants one contract, one point of contact and no coordination work, that premium buys something real.

Engaging a painter directly after handover generally costs less for the same work, sometimes considerably less on a whole-house repaint. The trade-off is that you are managing it, the house needs to be accessible, and anything done after handover sits outside the builder's responsibility if a dispute later arises about the finish. That last point matters more than the money on a new build. Timing changes the arithmetic. Painting between handover and moving in is far cheaper than painting a furnished house, because there is nothing to move, mask or work around, and a crew can run through the whole house in a few days. A three bedroom repaint in that window runs $3,500 to $6,500, against $5,000 to $9,000 once the furniture is in.

Where a variation is genuinely a variation, get it priced in writing with the same detail as the base specification. A line reading additional colour to bedroom two should say which walls, how many coats and which product, since the same words can describe quite different work. The one variation worth doing through the builder regardless of price is anything structural to the finish, meaning ceiling upgrades, cornice treatments and anything requiring access before the scaffold comes down. Retrofitting those afterwards costs more than the variation would have.

Using Your Own Painter

There are three points in a new build where engaging your own painter makes sense, and they carry different considerations. After handover but before you move in is the best window and the one most people miss. The house is empty, there is no furniture to protect, floors are new but easily covered, and a painter can work through the whole place efficiently. A full three bedroom repaint at this stage runs $3,500 to $6,500, which is frequently better value than the equivalent variations. After moving in is the common reality and it costs more. Furniture, occupancy and working around a household add labour, exactly as they do in any existing home.

The third point is defect rectification, where the builder's painter has left work you are not satisfied with and the maintenance period has closed or the builder disputes it. Engaging your own painter is sometimes faster than pursuing it, though think carefully before giving up a warranty claim to save time. If you are building on your own land with your own trades rather than through a volume builder, where general planning and building approval information is published at sa.gov.au, painting is one of the more approachable parts of the job to arrange directly, and your painter will want the plasterboard finished, the house lockable and power available before starting. Whichever route you take, the licence check applies. Painting and decorating is defined as building work in South Australia and anyone contracting to carry it out for others must hold a building work contractor's licence, with no dollar threshold below which that falls away.

Why New Joints Ghost Through

This is the single most common paint complaint in a new South Australian home and it is entirely preventable at the sealing stage. A plasterboard wall is a sheet with a paper face, joined to the next sheet with jointing compound spread and tapered out over the seam and over every screw fixing. Those two materials are quite different. The paper face is relatively closed, while the jointing compound is porous and absorbent. Paint applied over that mixture without a suitable sealer soaks into the compound more than the paper. The result is a difference in sheen and depth of colour along every joint and over every screw head, which is invisible when you look at the wall straight on and obvious when light rakes across it from a window.

The trade calls it ghosting, flashing or joint banding, and once the finish coats are on it cannot be spot fixed. The remedy is to seal the whole wall properly and recoat it. Prevention is a purpose made plasterboard sealer, sometimes described as a primer sealer undercoat, applied to the full surface before any finish coat. Manufacturers including Dulux, Wattyl, Haymes and Taubmans all produce one and name it specifically for the purpose on the tin, and board makers such as Gyprock publish their own guidance on sealing before decoration. It equalises the porosity so the topcoats sit evenly on paper and compound alike. Using a watered down finish coat as a substitute is a shortcut that produces exactly the problem it is meant to avoid.

Check for it at handover deliberately. Stand at one end of each room in the late afternoon with the light coming across the wall rather than onto it, and look along the surface at a shallow angle. Joints and screw lines will show immediately if the sealing was inadequate. It is the single most useful thirty seconds you can spend at a handover inspection, and any independent handover inspection should cover it.

New Render and Curing Time

Rendered exteriors are extremely common on South Australian new builds and they carry a timing requirement that a compressed build program sometimes tramples. Cement based render is highly alkaline when fresh. It needs to cure and carbonate, which is the reaction with air that neutralises that alkalinity, before a coating goes over it. Painting too early causes saponification, where the alkali attacks the binder in the paint and produces a soft, sticky or patchy film that never hardens properly.

The usual guidance is several weeks rather than several days, with the exact period depending on the render, the thickness and the weather. Efflorescence is the related issue. New masonry and render push soluble salts to the surface as they dry, appearing as a white crystalline bloom. It should be allowed to work through and brushed off rather than sealed under a coating, because sealing it in traps the salts against the paint film. Adelaide's dry warm months help here, since render cures faster in low humidity, and a summer build reaches paintable condition sooner than a winter one in the Hills or on the Limestone Coast. That said, extreme heat brings its own problem, because render that dries too fast can craze.

If your build hits the painting stage very soon after rendering, it is a fair question to ask. Rendering contractors will state the wait their product needs, and render repair specialists deal with the consequences where it was not observed. Raise it with the site supervisor rather than assuming somebody has allowed for it. Check it against the inclusions document.

First Year Cracking on Reactive SA Soils

Expect some. This is normal on a new South Australian home and understanding why saves a lot of alarm. Reactive clay and a drying timber frame both move the house through the first seasonal cycle. Knowing what is normal lets you raise what is not.

Residential slabs and footings in Australia are designed to a site classification that grades how reactive the ground is, and much of the Adelaide Plains falls into the more reactive classes. Those standards are published by Standards Australia. Two separate things are moving in a new house. The slab is bedded on Adelaide's reactive clay soils, which swell and shrink seasonally, and a new slab also settles as the ground under it consolidates. Separately, the timber frame is drying out, and timber shrinks as its moisture content falls toward equilibrium.

Both produce fine cracking in the first twelve to twenty four months, and it appears in predictable places: at cornice junctions, above door and window openings, along plasterboard sheet joints and at the corners of rooms. Hairline cracks in those locations are settlement, not a structural problem, and they are exactly what the builder's maintenance period exists to address. Cracking that warrants a closer look is different in character. Cracks wider than a few millimetres, cracks with a step or level difference across them, cracking that passes through bricks rather than around them, diagonal cracking from window corners, doors and windows that have started to bind, or gaps opening at skirtings. Those are useful to have assessed rather than filled. A building defect inspection gives you an independent view before you raise it with the builder.

What that means for painting is timing. There is little point repainting a new home in its first year if you intend to fix the cracking properly, because the cracks are still moving. Waiting until after the maintenance period repairs and letting the house go through a full summer and winter first produces a much better result. Waiting until the maintenance inspection means the repair is more likely to hold.

What Happens in the First Year

A new home moves as it settles, and the paint finish is where that movement becomes visible. Understanding what is normal, what is a defect and what the builder will and will not return for saves a great deal of frustration during the maintenance period. Almost every new house in South Australia develops some cracking in the first twelve months, and almost none of it is a structural problem. Knowing the difference between the two is what lets you raise the right things at the right time.

The usual pattern is fine cracking at cornice junctions, above door and window openings, and along plasterboard joints in the ceiling. Those are the points where two materials meet and where movement concentrates, and they open up as the timber frame dries out and as reactive Adelaide clay soils move the slab through the first seasonal cycle. Hairline cracks in those locations are settlement rather than damage. What is not normal is cracking that runs diagonally across a wall, cracks wide enough to admit a coin, cracks that continue through a cornice rather than at its junction, or doors and windows that have stopped closing properly. Those point at something beyond ordinary settlement and are worth raising promptly rather than waiting for the maintenance inspection.

Most builders in South Australia run a defects liability and maintenance period, commonly of twelve months, with a single scheduled inspection toward the end of it. That inspection is your opportunity to have settlement cracking filled and touched up as part of the contract, and it is worth keeping a running list from the day you move in rather than trying to remember everything on the day. Photograph and date everything you find. A dated photograph of a crack in month three, shown alongside the same crack in month eleven, tells the builder something a verbal description cannot, and it distinguishes a crack that has stabilised from one that is still moving. Keep the list somewhere you will actually maintain, since the value is in its completeness.

Do not fill settlement cracks yourself during the maintenance period. Repairing them removes the evidence, and a builder is entitled to see what they are being asked to address. Waiting until the frame has finished drying also means the repair is more likely to hold, which is the practical reason the inspection sits at the end of the period rather than the start. The builder is entitled to see what they are being asked to address.

The Builder's Maintenance Period

Most South Australian building contracts include a defects liability or maintenance period after handover, commonly running somewhere between three and twelve months depending on the contract. Its purpose is precisely the settlement described above. The builder returns once, near the end of the period, and rectifies the items on an agreed list, which includes filling and touching up settlement cracks along with any other defects. Use it properly and it is really valuable. Keep a running list from the day you move in rather than trying to remember everything at the end, photograph each item with a date, and submit the list in writing well before the deadline rather than on it.

Be realistic about what touch up means. A crack filled and spot painted in a room that was painted a year earlier will usually be visible, because the surrounding paint has aged and the patch has not. That is the same blending problem that affects any patch repair, and it is why some owners choose to have rooms fully recoated after the maintenance visit rather than accept spot touch ups. Statutory warranties for domestic building work in South Australia sit separately from and beyond the contractual maintenance period, and they are administered under building work legislation. General information is published by Consumer and Business Services, and disputes between owners and builders may be heard by SACAT depending on the matter.

Do not let the maintenance period lapse quietly. It is the one moment where rectification is free and expected. Diarise the end date from the day you move in and start the list immediately. That answer belongs in writing rather than a conversation.

Checking the Paint at Handover

Painting defects are among the most common items on a new home handover list, partly because painting is the last trade on site and gets compressed when the build runs late. Go room by room with a torch, in daylight, and take your time. The list below covers what actually shows up. Check door tops and bottoms, the insides of cupboards and anywhere a fixture was fitted before painting.

Look along walls at a shallow angle in raking light for ghosted joints and screw lines. Check cut in lines where wall meets ceiling and around architraves for wobble and overlap. Look for roller marks, missed patches and thin coverage, particularly in corners and behind where doors open. Check the tops and bottoms of doors, which are frequently left unpainted and matter because unsealed edges absorb moisture.

Then check the places people forget: inside robes and linen cupboards, the back of the laundry door, the garage side of the internal access door, above the shower recess, and behind the toilet. Look for paint on things it should not be on. Window glass, hardware, hinges, door stops, switch plates, tiles, tapware and floor finishes. Overspray on aluminium window frames is a common one and is far easier to raise before handover than after. Write everything down with photographs and submit it in writing. A new home inspection by an independent inspector costs a few hundred dollars and consistently finds items an owner walking through would miss, and a frame stage inspection earlier in the build catches problems while they are still cheap to fix.

Where Painting Sits in the Build

Painting is near the end of the program and that position shapes the quality you get. The sequence runs plastering, then painting of ceilings and walls, then floor coverings and joinery installation, then final electrical and plumbing fitoff, then a final touch up coat once the trades that mark walls are finished. Some builders paint trim before installation and touch up afterwards, which produces a better finish on the trim itself. The pressure point is obvious. When a build runs behind, the painting window compresses, and coatings have minimum recoat intervals that cannot be shortened by adding painters.

That is where thin coats, inadequate sealing and rushed cut in lines come from. It is rarely a skill problem and usually a calendar problem. South Australia's climate affects this more than people realise. A house being painted through an Adelaide February with no cooling running yet can reach internal temperatures that dry coatings too fast, causing lap marks and poor flow. A house painted in July in the Hills or at Mount Gambier faces the opposite, with slow drying and moisture in an unheated shell. You cannot control the builder's program, but you can inspect the result knowing where it was likely to have been squeezed.

Licensing and Who May Paint

Painting and decorating is defined as building work in South Australia. Anyone who contracts to carry out that work for others must hold a building work contractor's licence issued by Consumer and Business Services, and there is no dollar threshold below which the requirement falls away. The licence can be limited to painting and decorating rather than covering general building work, which is what most painting businesses hold. A restricted licence of that kind is the norm in this trade and not a lesser credential.

On a volume build the painter is a subcontractor to your builder, so your contract is with the builder and any defect is raised with them. Checking the individual painter's licence is not your job in that arrangement, though the builder's own licence certainly is. Where you engage a painter directly, after handover or as an owner builder, the check is yours to make and it takes a minute on the public register. Verify it yourself rather than accepting a number printed on a quote.

Insurance is the parallel check. Public liability cover protects you if a painter damages a brand new home, and in a house full of new fittings and finishes that exposure is higher than in an established one. Ask for a certificate of currency rather than a description of one, and consumer guarantees are administered by the ACCC. Ask for a certificate of currency rather than a verbal assurance.

What to Check at Handover

Handover is the one moment when the builder's attention is guaranteed and the list you bring determines what gets fixed without argument. Painting defects are among the most common items on any new home handover list, and most are straightforward to spot if you know where to look and go slowly. Allow a proper hour rather than walking through in fifteen minutes with an agent waiting, and bring a torch regardless of the time of day. Look along walls at a shallow angle rather than face on, since raking light shows roller marks, missed patches, joint banding and ghosting that disappear when you look straight at the surface. Fresh plasterboard joints that were not sealed correctly show as slightly different sheen running in straight lines, and that is a preparation fault rather than a cosmetic one.

Check the places painters routinely miss. The tops and bottoms of doors, the insides of robes and the pantry, behind where fixtures were fitted before painting, the back of the garage door and the edges of architraves in corners all get skipped, and none are visible from the middle of the room. Test a few surfaces gently with a fingernail in an inconspicuous spot to see whether the coating has cured properly. Paint that marks easily on handover day was applied too recently or too thickly, and raising it then is far easier than explaining it in month eight. Photograph everything you list, with a reference point in frame so the location is obvious later. A dated photograph attached to a written list is what turns a handover conversation into a documented request, and it protects you if the same defect has to be raised again at the maintenance inspection.

What Drives the Price

Colour count is the main variable in a new build, not area. Each additional colour is another product, another cut in operation and another masking setup. Coat count is the one to verify rather than assume. A sealer plus two finish coats is the proper specification, and a schedule reading two coats total delivers a single finish coat.

Exclusions cost real money. Garages, eaves, external trim and cupboard interiors are each separate charges where the base specification leaves them out. Ceiling height works exactly as it does in any interior, and the raked ceilings and entry voids common in current designs need platforms and slow the work. Whether the work is a variation or a direct engagement changes the figure through margin, which is why comparing a builder's variation price against a post handover quote pays off before you commit at colour selection.

Timing after handover matters too, since an empty house is meaningfully cheaper to paint than a furnished occupied one. If you are going to change the colours, doing it in the gap between settlement and moving in is the cheapest version of that decision. Preparation specialists are rarely needed on a new build, which is precisely why the rate is low. A repaint before the furniture arrives runs several thousand dollars cheaper than the same work afterwards.

Adelaide Growth Corridors

New home building in metropolitan Adelaide concentrates in a handful of corridors and the pricing is consistent across them, since the houses are broadly similar products. Painters working those corridors regularly price them keenly, which works in your favour. Raise it before handover rather than after. Most builders will confirm it on request.

The northern corridor through Angle Vale, Munno Para, Blakeview, Andrews Farm, Two Wells and the newer estates around Virginia carries the largest volume of building in the state. The southern corridor runs through Seaford, Aldinga and Sellicks. Mount Barker has grown considerably and functions as its own market with local trades. The last two rows of that table are the same house at two different moments. Painting in the gap between handover and moving in is consistently the cheapest way to change a new home's colours.

Regional South Australia

Regional new builds follow the same pattern with a travel component, and in smaller towns the builder's painter may be travelling from a larger centre. Coordinating with other work on the same visit is the usual way to absorb it. Ask what the figure assumes about the surface. Getting it in writing takes a moment.

Mount Barker deserves separate mention because the scale of building there has created a genuine local trade base, so you are not necessarily reliant on someone driving up from the plains. The Limestone Coast and the higher Hills share one specific issue on new builds, which is that render cures more slowly in higher humidity and cooler conditions. A program written for Adelaide timing can push a painter onto render that is not ready. In the far west and north, the practical constraint on a post handover repaint is availability rather than price, so book the window between handover and moving in well ahead rather than assuming someone will be free. Coastal regional builds face the same salt exposure as coastal metropolitan ones, and the external specification on a new home near the water deserves a closer read than the internal one.

What to Look Out For

Read the inclusions schedule before colour selection, not at it. By the time you are sitting in the selections appointment, the price is set and everything you want beyond the base is a variation. Confirm the coat count in writing. One sealer plus two finish coats is the specification you want, and a schedule reading two coats total is a single finish coat with a sealer counted as one of them.

Get the exclusions listed explicitly. Ask directly about garages, the inside of the garage door, eaves, external trim, robe and pantry interiors, and feature walls, because assuming any of them are included is how people end up with an unpainted garage. Inspect in raking light at handover. Ghosted joints are the most common defect and the easiest to miss looking straight at a wall, so stand at one end of the room in the afternoon and sight along the surface.

Do not repaint in the first year if you intend to fix the settlement cracking properly, because the cracks are still moving and you will be doing it twice. Keep a maintenance list from day one with dated photographs and submit it in writing well before the deadline. This is free rectification and it lapses quietly. Finally, price the post handover option before agreeing to variations. Two extra colours through a builder and the same two colours in an empty house after settlement are rarely the same number, and knowing both lets you choose rather than default. Small painting jobs handle the odd room where a full repaint is more than you need.

What to Look for in a Quote in SA

For a post handover repaint, a quote worth comparing states the rooms and elements included, the preparation, the products and the program. Specifically: which rooms, whether ceilings, doors, frames, architraves and skirtings are in or out, whether the garage is included, the sealer or primer being used, the number of finish coats, the product and sheen for walls, ceilings and trim separately, whether the house will be empty, the start date and duration, and payment terms. On a house less than two years old, ask specifically how any existing settlement cracks will be treated. When you enquire, say the age of the house, the floor area and number of bedrooms, the ceiling height including any raked ceilings or voids, whether it will be empty or furnished, the current colours and the intended colours, and whether the builder's maintenance visit has happened yet. That last detail matters, because painting before it can complicate a warranty claim.

Get three quotes on the same scope and make sure all three include the sealer. On a new build the sealer is the item that separates a job that lasts from one that ghosts, and it is the easiest line to leave out of a competitive price. Keep the colour codes, product names and sheen levels with your house documents from the outset. On a new home you are the first owner and everything after this point refers back to what went on now, so a single page in the file saves every future touch up from becoming a colour matching exercise. You will also find exterior painting and roof coating contractors here for work outside the original build scope.