Shed Builders Costs VIC 2026 - Get Free Quotes

Shed Builder Costs in Victoria

A shed in Victoria costs anywhere from $5,000 for a small garden shed to $80,000 or more for a clear-span machinery shed, and that range is wide because those are fundamentally different buildings. A garden shed is a box you put a mower in. A farm shed is a piece of engineering with portal frames, a clear internal span, and enough height to drive a tractor into, and pretending they belong on the same price list helps nobody.

Size and height do the obvious work in the range, and height is the one people underestimate. A shed sized for a car is a different building to one sized for a caravan with an air conditioner on the roof, or a tractor with a cab, and the difference is columns, cladding, a bigger door, and money. Measure the tallest thing you will ever want to put inside, then add to it, because raising a shed after the fact is not a job anybody wants to quote.

The number that actually decides your price, and the one most owners have never heard of, is the wind classification of your site. A shed is a large, light, boxy structure with an enormous roof, and wind is the load it has to be engineered against rather than an afterthought bolted on at the end. The rating is not a function of your postcode, it depends on the terrain, the shielding from surrounding buildings and trees, and the topography of the land.

The practical consequence is stark and worth stating plainly. An identical shed on an exposed paddock outside Ballarat and in a sheltered suburban backyard in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne are not the same building. The exposed one needs heavier steel, deeper footings, more concrete, and more bracing, and it can cost thousands more for exactly the same floor area. A builder quoting shed and garage builders work without establishing that rating is guessing at the most important number in the job.

The rest is comparatively ordinary. A registered builder assesses the site, arranges the permits, pours an engineered slab, erects the frame, clads and roofs it, and hands it over. Victoria's rules apply as they do to any domestic building work over $10,000, which means registration with the Building and Plumbing Commission, a written major domestic building contract, a deposit capped at 5 per cent once the contract reaches $20,000, and domestic building insurance over $16,000, all of which a registered builder will explain without being pushed.

What a Builder Covers

A shed builder covers the site assessment, the wind classification, the engineering, the permits, the slab, the frame, the cladding, the roof, and the doors. On a shed the engineering is emphatically not a formality. The whole structure is a wind-resisting system rather than a collection of walls with a roof laid on top, and every element in it has been sized for a calculated load. The certification that comes out of that process is a document worth keeping somewhere safe. You will want it when you sell, and you will want it very much indeed if you ever make an insurance claim after a storm.

The builder is responsible for compliance with the building permit and for the mandatory inspections at prescribed stages. The footings and slab reinforcement are inspected before the pour, and this matters on a shed more than most structures, because the slab is not just a floor. On a portal frame shed the columns are held down by bolts cast into the footings, and those hold-down bolts are what stops the building lifting in a storm.

Doors are a bigger part of a shed budget than most people expect, and they deserve attention early rather than late. A roller door big enough to admit a caravan is a substantial piece of equipment. A sliding door on a machinery shed is bigger again, and a personal access door on the side is a small extra that everybody forgets and everybody wants. Every one of them has to be framed for during design, because a door ordered after the frame is standing is a door that does not fit an opening that is already made. Coordination is squarely the builder's job. Ask about it at quoting stage rather than discovering it on delivery day.

What is typically excluded is worth settling in writing before anybody signs anything. Power and lighting are almost always outside the base price, and so is a site cut or levelling on a sloping block. Retaining, if the cut needs it, is another line again. The guttering and its connection into stormwater or a tank is frequently excluded, as is an apron or driveway to the door, insulation, and the removal of any existing structure. Each of those is real money rather than a rounding error. Things like driveway installation to actually get a vehicle to the shed, and roof and gutter plumbing to deal with the water, are exactly what people forget until the builder has packed up and gone.

Shed Types and Sizes

A garden shed sits at the small end, generally under twenty square metres, and it is the one type that may fall within an exemption from a building permit. It is cheap, it goes up quickly, and it does exactly one job, which is keeping a mower and some tools out of the rain. Nothing wrong with that. Even here, though, it pays to check the exemption rather than to assume it applies to you. The conditions attached are specific about floor area, height, and distance from boundaries, and stepping outside any one of them puts you back into permit territory. A phone call to a registered building surveyor settles it, related to how any shed and garage construction job should start.

The workshop shed is the most common build in suburban Victoria, typically forty to eighty square metres with a proper slab, power, and lighting. People actually use this one, rather than merely owning it. The mistake most often made with it is building it too small, because the quote for the larger version looked frightening on the day and the smaller one looked sensible. The marginal cost of another few square metres at design stage is genuinely modest, since the slab, the frame and the roof all scale gently. The cost of wishing you had those metres three years later is considerable, and there is no cheap way to get them. Build the shed you will want, not the shed you can just about justify.

A machinery or farm shed is a different proposition entirely, and it is what a great deal of rural Victoria is actually buying. Clear span matters here more than anything else. A tractor cannot drive around an internal column, and a header certainly cannot, so the roof has to be carried entirely on the portal frames at the perimeter. That means heavier steel sections, bigger frames, and a great deal more of everything. It is the honest reason a farm shed costs what it does, and it is not a figure anybody has padded. If you are storing hay rather than driving through, columns may not trouble you at all and you should say so, because the saving is substantial.

Height is the specification most commonly regretted, and it is regretted quietly for years. A standard suburban shed might have a wall height of two and a half metres, which is perfectly fine for a mower and some shelving and completely hopeless for a caravan or a boat on a trailer. Farm sheds routinely run four to six metres or more at the wall, because a tractor with a cab is a tall object and a truck is taller. Every extra metre carries longer columns, more cladding, a taller door, and more wind load. That is why building a shed or garage is priced on volume rather than on footprint alone, and why the cheapest quote is often the shortest one.

The kit shed is the cheapest route and it produces the most misunderstood number in the whole category. An advertised kit price of $3,000 to $25,000 is supply only, and that phrase is doing an enormous amount of work. It excludes the concrete slab, which is a substantial cost in its own right. It excludes the site preparation, the erection labour, the building permit and engineering, the guttering, and any electrical work whatsoever. Add all of those back in and the built cost lands exactly where everything else does. Comparing an advertised kit figure against a built quote is therefore not a comparison at all, and a great many people have signed a contract on precisely that misunderstanding.

Wind and Engineering

Wind is the governing load on a shed, and it is worth understanding properly rather than trusting to whoever is selling you one. A shed is essentially a large box with a very large roof, which is close to the worst shape you could choose if your aim was to resist wind. Wind acting on it produces lateral pressure, pushing the building sideways. More dangerously, it produces uplift on the roof, actively trying to pick the whole thing up. The structure has to transfer every bit of that load down through the frames, into the hold-down bolts, and finally into the footings. Every single link in that chain has to be sized for the load, and the chain fails at whichever link somebody skimped on.

The wind classification for your site determines all of those sizes, and it depends on things you can actually see rather than on your address. The terrain category comes first: whether you sit in open country, in a lightly built-up area, or in a dense suburb. Shielding comes second, meaning the protection genuinely provided by surrounding buildings and mature trees, which is real and measurable. Topography comes third, because wind accelerates as it climbs a ridge or a hilltop, so a site on high ground is a windier site by definition. Put those three together and you have your classification. That classification is arrived at by assessment rather than assumption, and the assessment is what you are paying an engineer for.

Victoria has a great deal of genuinely exposed country, and it produces genuinely high ratings. Open farmland across the western district, the plains around Ballarat, exposed coastal blocks on the Bellarine and the Mornington Peninsula, and hilltops absolutely anywhere all attract higher classifications than a sheltered suburban backyard. None of that should surprise anybody who has stood in a paddock in August. Owners are regularly surprised by it regardless, and the reason is always the same. They compare a quote for their farm block against a mate's suburban shed, find it thousands dearer for the same floor area, and conclude they are being overcharged. They are not, and the difference is sitting in the steel and the footings.

The cost of a higher rating is real and entirely legitimate, and it is worth saying so plainly because owners frequently suspect otherwise. Heavier steel sections, and more of them. Thicker footings and more concrete in the ground. More bracing through the structure, and heavier hold-down bolts anchoring it. All of that follows directly from a higher wind classification, and a builder who has priced for it is not gouging you. The builder to worry about is the one who has quoted your exposed paddock at the same price as a sheltered suburban backyard, because they have either not looked at the site or have assumed a rating they cannot justify on paper.

The risk of under-rating is not theoretical, and it is the reason any of this matters. An under-engineered shed lifts, twists, and comes apart in a storm. It does so with a very large quantity of sheet steel travelling at speed, which is a serious danger to anybody nearby, to livestock, to vehicles, and to whatever happens to be downwind of it. That is not a scare story, it is what the engineering exists to prevent. Ask what wind classification the shed has been designed to, ask for the engineering certification, and then keep it somewhere you can find it again. It is your evidence that the building was rated properly, and it is closely tied to what concreting services have to actually deliver down in the footings.

Permits and Rural Land

Victoria runs two separate permit systems and it is worth being clear about both. A building permit, issued by a registered building surveyor who may be private or municipal, confirms the structure is safe and complies with the building regulations. A planning permit, issued by your council, confirms you are allowed to build it there under the planning scheme. A shed of any real size will generally need the building permit, and may need the planning permit too.

There is a limited exemption for very small non-habitable outbuildings, and it is the source of a truly extraordinary amount of misinformation. The exemption is defined by specific criteria, including floor area, height, and distance from boundaries. Stepping outside any single one of those takes you straight back out of it, and people step outside them constantly without realising. Do not rely on what a neighbour did in 2003, and do not rely on what somebody in a shed showroom told you while writing up an order. Confirm your position with a registered building surveyor, which costs a phone call and nothing else. Building without a permit that you needed is an expensive way to discover you needed it, and it surfaces when you sell.

Rural land changes the planning picture, and it often changes it in your favour. On land within a farming zone, an outbuilding used for genuine agricultural purposes may enjoy a more generous planning position than the equivalent structure would on a suburban lot. That makes sense, since farming is precisely what the zone exists for and a farm without sheds is not a farm. The building permit requirement generally still applies, however, and that is the part that catches people. There is a persistent belief that on a farm you can build whatever you like, wherever you like, and it is simply not true. It produces enforcement notices, and it produces sheds that have to be modified or removed at the owner's cost.

Overlays override all of that and they are the first thing to check. A Bushfire Management Overlay, an Environmental Significance Overlay, a Land Subject to Inundation Overlay, or a Significant Landscape Overlay will each bring council into the process regardless of the zone. On a rural block in Victoria at least one overlay is more likely than not, so look before you order steel.

Setbacks and siting matter more on rural land than owners tend to expect, precisely because the distances involved feel so generous. The rules still exist even when the paddock is enormous. Distance from boundaries, from the dwelling, from a waterway, and from a road all come into it, and a waterway setback in particular catches people out on properties with a creek. A shed sited to suit the paddock and the tractor, rather than the planning scheme, is a shed that gets refused. Getting the siting right on paper first is dramatically cheaper than moving it later. It also interacts directly with excavation and earthmoving, since where the shed sits determines how much cut and fill you are paying for.

Bushfire Requirements

Large parts of Victoria sit within a Bushfire Management Overlay, and where it applies a planning permit is required for building work. This is not an obscure technicality affecting a handful of properties. It covers a substantial portion of the state, including much of the peri-urban fringe around Melbourne, the ranges, the Peninsula hinterland, and enormous areas of regional Victoria. A great many sheds are therefore affected, and a great many owners find out at the worst possible moment. Check the planning scheme for your address before you do anything else, because it takes ten minutes and it changes everything downstream.

Where the overlay applies, the site is assessed to establish a bushfire attack level. That assessment is based on the surrounding vegetation, the slope of the land, and the separation distance between the two, and none of those three are things you can argue with. The construction requirements then tighten as the assessed level rises. In practice they affect the materials, the cladding, the sealing of gaps around openings, and the treatment of vents and eaves. A shed is not automatically exempt from any of this simply because it is not a dwelling, which is an assumption owners make constantly. Ask the question rather than assuming the answer.

How a shed is treated depends on what it is and where it sits relative to the house, and the answer is not always intuitive. A detached shed standing some distance from the dwelling may be treated quite differently to one built hard against it, because a shed close to the house can become a fire risk to the house itself. A shed intended to be occupied, whether as a workshop or as anything else, is a different question again. None of this is guesswork territory. It is exactly the kind of thing to put to a builder who works regularly in bushfire-prone areas, and to a bushfire consultant if the site warrants one. Guessing here costs money at best.

The practical advice is simple: establish the overlay before you design, not after you have ordered a kit. A bushfire assessment can change the specification, and a change in specification after the steel has been fabricated is an expensive lesson. Check the planning scheme for your property, and if a Bushfire Management Overlay applies, build the assessment into your timeline from the beginning.

Water is worth mentioning in the same breath, because on a rural property a shed roof is a substantial water catchment and it would be a waste to throw that away. A large machinery shed can collect a remarkable volume in a single storm. A tank fed from it serves a domestic purpose and, on a bushfire-prone property, a firefighting one as well, which is not a small consideration. Connecting the guttering into a tank rather than letting it discharge onto the ground beside the slab is one of the more sensible things you can do with a large roof. It is exactly why rainwater tank plumbing so often forms part of a rural shed job rather than a separate one.

Choosing a Builder

Ask what wind classification the shed has been designed to, and expect a specific answer with a report behind it. This is the single most useful question on a shed, and it separates builders who have engineered the structure from those who have picked a standard kit and hoped your site is ordinary. A vague assurance that everything is built strong is not an answer, and it should send you elsewhere.

Check the registration yourself rather than accepting a claim. The Building and Plumbing Commission maintains a register of building practitioners, and confirming that the person you are about to pay is registered in the right class takes minutes. A legitimate builder hands over the number without hesitation, and hesitation is itself informative.

Ask who is obtaining which permit and write the answer down. Some builders handle the building permit and any planning permit as part of the service, some handle the building permit only, and some quietly assume you are dealing with all of it. On a rural block with an overlay this question is not administrative, it is the difference between building this year and next.

Ask for the engineering certification and keep it, because it is your proof that the shed was rated properly. It matters when you sell, it matters if you ever make an insurance claim after a storm, and it matters if a subsequent owner or a council officer ever asks. A builder who cannot produce it has not done the work, whatever they say.

Finally, ask what soil classification the slab has been designed to, and expect a letter and a report rather than a shrug. Reactive clay is widespread across Melbourne's western and northern suburbs and across much of central Victoria, so this is a live question for most owners rather than an exotic one. Clay swells when it gets wet and shrinks as it dries, moving through the seasons. A slab designed for stable ground will crack on it, and because a portal frame is bolted rigidly to that slab, the movement drags the frame out of square and the doors stop closing. A soil test costs a few hundred dollars and turns a guess into a number. That is exactly what the concrete slab under a heavy steel frame actually needs.

The Process

A builder visits the site, looks at the ground, the access, the exposure, and the boundaries, and establishes both the wind classification and the soil type. Everything in an honest quote rests on that visit. A builder who prices a shed over the phone has not done it and cannot have done it, whatever the number says. On a rural block they will also want to talk seriously about siting, because the paddock and the planning scheme frequently have different opinions about where a shed belongs, and only one of them gets a vote.

The shed is then engineered to the wind classification and the soil, and that engineering supports the building permit application. Where an overlay applies, the planning application runs first and takes months, and a bushfire assessment may be required. Nothing should be ordered until both permits are in hand, and this matters more on a shed than on most structures, because the steel is fabricated to order.

The contract is signed once the scope is settled, and Victoria's rules apply from that moment. The deposit is capped at 5 per cent once the contract reaches $20,000, the payment stages have to relate to real work, and a cooling-off period of five business days applies after signing a major domestic building contract. Read the exclusions list, because on a shed the site works are where they hide.

On site, the pad is cleared and levelled, and any cut and fill is done first. The formwork and reinforcement go in, with the hold-down bolts positioned precisely to the engineering drawings. The surveyor inspects before the pour, and then the slab goes down. Those bolts have to be exactly where the engineering says they should be, to the millimetre, because the steel frame is fabricated in a workshop to fit them rather than the other way round. A bolt group set out even slightly wrong is a genuine problem on the day a truckload of steel arrives, and it is not a problem anybody solves quickly.

The frame is stood on the cured slab, and on a shed this stage moves quickly because everything has been made to fit. The cladding and roof go on, the doors are hung, and the guttering is fitted and connected. Electrical work must be done by a licensed electrician rather than by anybody with a screwdriver. Run the conduit before the slab is poured, because cutting a chase into finished concrete afterwards is expensive, ugly, and entirely avoidable. Most people learn that lesson exactly once, and it is worth learning from somebody else, related to what electrical services can practically achieve after the fact.

What Affects the Cost

Size and height together drive the base number, and height is by far the underrated half of that pair. Every extra metre of wall height carries longer columns, more cladding, a taller and considerably dearer door, and more wind load acting on a bigger sail. It therefore costs disproportionately rather than proportionally, which is worth knowing before you specify it. Decide the height around the tallest thing you will realistically own within the life of the shed. Not the tallest thing you own today, which is a completely different and much more disappointing number. Nobody has ever complained that their shed was too tall.

The wind classification is the multiplier that people never see coming, because nobody sells sheds on it. A higher rating means heavier steel sections throughout, deeper footings, more concrete in the ground, more bracing through the structure, and heavier hold-down bolts anchoring the columns. On a genuinely exposed site it can add many thousands of dollars to an otherwise identical shed. Every dollar of that is legitimate engineering rather than a markup somebody has invented. It is the honest reason your farm shed costs more than your cousin's suburban one, and it is worth understanding well enough to explain it to yourself at three in the morning.

Clear span costs money and it is worth being deliberate about rather than defaulting to it. A shed with internal columns is considerably cheaper than a clear-span shed of exactly the same footprint, because each frame carries less load and the steel can be lighter. If the shed is genuinely for storage, columns may not trouble you in the slightest. If a tractor, a truck or a caravan has to move around inside it, columns are not an inconvenience but an outright failure. That is a decision to make before quoting rather than after the steel has arrived, and it is worth thinking honestly about how you will actually use the building rather than how you imagine you will.

The slab is a real line in the budget and it is driven by the soil beneath it rather than by the shed above it. Reactive clay demands a stiffer and considerably more expensive slab, and the gap between a slab designed for stable ground and one designed for highly reactive clay runs into thousands of dollars. That clay is widespread across Melbourne's west and north and across much of central Victoria, so it is a live question for a great many owners. Separately, a shed that will carry heavy machinery or vehicles needs a thicker slab than one storing garden tools and a bicycle. That should be specified deliberately rather than assumed, because nobody thickens a slab out of generosity, and concrete pumping may be needed where a truck cannot reach the pad.

Site works are the last variable and they are the most commonly excluded from a quote. A sloping block needs a site cut before anything else can happen. That cut may then need retaining to hold the bank up, and both of those cost real money before the shed itself has begun. Poor access means the concrete has to be pumped rather than poured directly and the steel has to be carried rather than craned. On a rural block a long run from the road to the pad can add a surprising amount to every single delivery. This is where retaining wall builders and excavation quietly enter a shed budget that nobody had allowed for them in.

Shed Builder Costs Across Melbourne

Melbourne shed pricing separates on soil, access, and exposure rather than on postcode. The established suburbs offer good shielding from surrounding houses and mature trees, which keeps the wind classification down. They also offer narrow side access, which pushes the labour cost straight back up again. The growth corridors offer precisely the reverse: easy access, competitive builders, and some of the most reactive clay in the state sitting under the slab.

The peri-urban fringe is where Melbourne owners most often get caught out, for a simple reason: it looks suburban and it plans like the country. A block in the Yarra Valley, the Macedon Ranges, the Dandenongs or the Peninsula hinterland is very likely to carry a Bushfire Management Overlay. That means a planning permit, a bushfire assessment, and a construction specification that reflects the assessed attack level. None of it is optional and all of it takes time. Check the planning scheme for your address before you design anything, because finding out afterwards costs months.

Shed Builder Costs in Regional Victoria

Regional Victoria builds sheds cheaply and builds a great many of them, and the reasons are entirely practical. Blocks are large, machinery reaches the pad without difficulty, and materials can be stacked wherever they land. Labour rates are lower than in Melbourne, the trades are less stretched, and a simple concreting crew is easier to book. Against all of that, exposure is higher and the wind classification climbs with it, while freight and travel add real money on genuinely remote properties.

Exposure is the defining regional cost and it is not open to negotiation. Open farmland across the western district and the plains around Ballarat carry genuinely high wind classifications. A shed built there is a physically heavier structure than the same shed in a Melbourne backyard, with more steel in it and more concrete under it. Anybody quoting the two at the same price has not looked at your site, and that is a reason to be cautious rather than pleased.

Bushfire is the other regional constant, and across much of central and eastern Victoria a Bushfire Management Overlay is more likely than not. Where it applies, a planning permit is required, an assessment is done, and the specification tightens. Build that into your timeline from the start, because it can add months, and it can change the shed you end up with.

What to Look Out For

The first thing to watch is a shed quoted without a wind classification, because that single number is what the entire structure depends on. A builder who has not established it has priced a standard kit for an average site and quietly hoped that yours is average. On a sheltered suburban block they may well get away with it. On an exposed block in regional Victoria that assumption is dangerous rather than merely optimistic, and the consequences arrive in a storm rather than in a letter. Ask for the classification, ask for the engineering certification that goes with it, and do not accept reassurance in place of either.

Watch the kit price, because it is comfortably the most misleading number in the category. An advertised figure of a few thousand dollars is supply only, and the exclusions do most of the work. It leaves out the slab, the site preparation, the erection labour, the building permit and engineering, the guttering, and every scrap of electrical work. Adding all of that back in lands you exactly where a built quote already was. A kit price compared against a built price is not a comparison at all, and plenty of people have signed on precisely that basis and worked it out later.

Do not assume that a rural block means no permits, because that assumption is both extremely common and simply incorrect. A building permit is generally required regardless of the zone your land sits in. An overlay will bring council into the process even on a working farming property, and on a rural Victorian block at least one overlay is more likely than not. The belief that on a farm you can build whatever you like, wherever you like, is widespread and it is wrong. It produces enforcement notices, it produces sheds that have to be modified or removed at the owner's expense, and it produces very awkward conversations at the point of sale.

Watch the deposit, because Victoria's cap is a good deal tighter than most people expect and it is exceeded routinely in the shed trade. On a contract of $20,000 or more the maximum lawful deposit is 5 per cent of the contract price. On a $50,000 farm shed that means $2,500, and not a dollar more. A builder asking for ten or fifteen thousand dollars up front, which happens constantly and is often framed as being needed to order the steel, is asking for several times what the law permits. Say no. A builder who cannot fund the fabrication of your steel without a large unlawful deposit is telling you something important about their business.

Finally, be careful with an old shed that has to come down first, because anything built before 1990 should be assumed to contain asbestos until testing proves otherwise. Fibro sheeting on shed walls and roofs was completely standard for decades, and old farm sheds are among the most reliable places in Australia to find it. It was not fully banned in this country until the end of 2003, which is far more recent than most people assume. Removal is licensed and regulated work, and the waste has to go to a facility lawfully permitted to receive it rather than into a paddock or a general skip. Get it tested before you accept a demolition quote, because a price given without testing will be revised the moment the sheeting comes off. That makes asbestos removal a line item rather than a weekend job with an angle grinder, and asbestos testing and inspection the cheapest few hundred dollars in the project.

What to Look for in a Quote in Victoria

A quote worth comparing comes after somebody has physically stood on the site and looked at the exposure, the ground, and the access. On work over $10,000 it should be a major domestic building contract rather than a page of numbers with a total at the bottom. It should set out the contract price and a deposit within the legal cap, with payment stages tied to real work. It should name the wind classification the shed is engineered to and the soil classification the slab is designed to. And it should state the clear span and the wall height, who obtains each permit, what site works are included, the guttering and its connection, a full exclusions list, and a programme somebody actually believes.

Get three quotes and then make sure they are actually pricing the same shed, because on sheds they very often are not. One will have engineered for your real wind classification and another will have assumed a standard rating without ever visiting. One will include the site cut and the other will have left it out entirely. One will have priced a genuine clear span while another has quietly slipped a column into the middle of what was supposed to be your machinery bay. Those are not small differences and none of them show up in the headline number. Normalising all three onto one agreed scope is where the real decision is made.

Confirm registration and insurance rather than accepting a claim. Ask for the Building and Plumbing Commission registration number and check it, and ask for the domestic building insurance certificate before paying a deposit on work over $16,000. Ask for the engineering certification too, and keep it somewhere safe.

Describe the job properly when you seek quotes. Tell builders the size and the wall height you need, what you will be putting inside it, whether you need a clear span, how exposed the site is to wind, whether the ground slopes, whether you know the soil type, what the access is like for a concrete truck, whether the property carries a Bushfire Management Overlay or any other overlay, whether it is a farming zone, whether you want power and a tank connection, and whether an old shed needs removing. On The Quote Yard you can describe it once and get quotes from several registered builders across Victoria.