Flyscreen Replacement and Installation Costs VIC 2026 - Get Free Quotes

What Flyscreen Work Covers in Victoria

Flyscreen work covers everything to do with the insect screens on a home's windows and doors, from a quick repair to a full set of made-to-measure screens. At the simplest end it is re-meshing, stretching new mesh into an existing frame whose old mesh has torn, sagged or perished, which is the cheapest job in the trade. A step up is supplying and fitting a new screen made to measure for a window, where the frame is built to the exact opening and the mesh chosen to suit. Bigger again are the screen doors, hinged or sliding units on the doors people walk through, and the retractable screens that roll away out of sight on large openings. Across all of it the aim is the same, to let a Victorian home open its windows and doors for air and breeze while keeping the insects, and sometimes the pets, on the right side of the mesh. It sounds trivial until a hot night with no screens reminds you exactly how much a good one is worth. A working screen is the difference between sleeping with the window open and sweating with it shut.

This is one of the few home trades that is not licensed work, which changes how you choose someone. Anyone can lawfully measure, make and fit a flyscreen, so there is no licence to check and no certificate to ask for, and the things that separate a good job from a poor one are the quality of the measure, the neatness of the fit, and whether the right mesh was used. Many flyscreen installers are window-and-door specialists who also handle security doors and screens, sliding doors and the like, so a flyscreen often comes as part of a broader window-and-door visit. Smaller jobs are well within the range of a capable handyman through handyman door repairs. This page is the Victorian guide to the whole subject, what the work costs in 2026 and the safety points that genuinely matter. It is written for the homeowner choosing between a quick re-mesh and new screens, so the focus stays on getting the right thing for the right price.

Victoria's climate and homes make flyscreens more than a nicety. Melbourne summers invite cross-ventilation, and a great many homes rely on open windows and doors for cool evening air rather than running air conditioning all night, which only works if the insects are kept out. The state's mix of older housing brings odd-sized double-hung and casement windows that need screens made to fit rather than bought off a shelf, while homes near water, the bay, the Gippsland Lakes and the coastal towns, contend with midges and sandflies that slip through ordinary mesh. Add the bushfire-prone fringes of the city and the regions, where ember-resistant mesh is part of building for the risk, and a simple-sounding screen has more to it than first appears. A screen is one of those small fittings that turns out to depend on where you live and what you are keeping out.

The sections that follow price each kind of flyscreen work in Victoria for 2026, alongside the mesh choices, the window and door types, and the safety points that matter most. It explains the difference between re-meshing and replacing, the screens that suit different windows and doors, the special meshes for pets, midges and bushfire areas, and the important distinction between a flyscreen and a window fall-safety barrier. The section on window fall safety is the one to read closely if there are young children in the home, because it is where a common and dangerous misunderstanding lives. Taken in order, it runs from the screen, to the mesh, to the cost. The aim is that you can describe your windows and doors clearly and pick the installer who has understood what you actually need. Every figure here is a 2026 Victorian rate and the safety guidance is current, because both matter when you are choosing what to buy and who to trust.

Cost Depth: What Drives Flyscreen Pricing in Victoria

Flyscreen pricing in Victoria is unusual among trades because the material cost is small and almost everything sits in the measure, the fabrication and the visit. A single screen carries the whole cost of somebody travelling to your house, measuring, returning to a workshop, cutting a frame, rolling mesh into the spline and coming back to fit it, which is why one window screen and six window screens are nowhere near a sixfold difference in price.

Re-meshing an existing frame is the cheapest path at $30 to $80 a screen, because the frame, the corners and the clips are already there and only the mesh and the spline are replaced. It suits aluminium frames that are straight, unbroken at the corners and still holding their shape, and on a house full of sound frames it is by far the best value approach to a tired-looking set of screens.

A new made-to-measure window screen runs $60 to $150 and becomes the sensible choice once frames are bent, corroded or missing. Older Melbourne homes complicate this, because double-hung sashes, awning windows with winders, odd-sized openings in period cottages and anything out of square all take longer to measure and fabricate than a modern aluminium slider.

Screen doors are a different category at $150 to $400 for hinged or sliding and $300 to $700 for retractable or pull-down units. The hardware is what carries the price here, since a door needs a frame, hinges or a track, a closer, a latch and adjustment on site, and retractable units add a cassette, a tension mechanism and a guide system that all have to run smoothly.

Mesh grade moves the figure independently of everything else. Standard fibreglass is the baseline, aluminium costs a little more, fine midge mesh for bayside and Gippsland Lakes properties more again, heavy pet-resistant mesh adds $40 to $120 a screen, and bushfire-rated or security-grade mesh sits in a different bracket entirely with its own standards attached.

Doing the whole house at once is the single largest saving available on this work. At $50 to $120 a window for a full re-screen, the per-unit rate falls well below the one-off price because the measure, the travel and the fitting visit are shared across every opening rather than carried by one.

Screen Types and the Mesh That Goes In Them

Flyscreens come in a handful of types matched to where they go, and knowing the names makes the conversation easier. A fixed window screen is the common one, a slim aluminium frame holding mesh that clips or fits into the window opening, made to suit whether the window slides, swings out or pushes up. A hinged screen door swings like an ordinary door over an entry, while a sliding screen door runs on a track alongside a sliding glass door, and both keep a doorway open to the breeze without the insects. For wide openings, bifold or stacker doors and big alfresco spaces, a retractable screen rolls out from a cassette when wanted and disappears when not, which suits an opening too large for a conventional door. Each type is a different product and a different price, and matching it to the opening is the first decision. A door gets handled every day and a window screen barely at all, so the two are built quite differently even though both are just frame and mesh.

The mesh is the part that does the actual work, and there is more choice in it than people expect. Standard fibreglass mesh is the everyday option, cheap, flexible and effective against ordinary flies and mosquitoes, and it is what most window screens carry. Aluminium mesh is a little tougher and holds its shape well, while finer midge mesh has a tighter weave to stop the tiny biting insects that ordinary mesh lets through, which matters near water. Heavier pet-resistant mesh is woven from tougher strands to survive a cat's claws or a dog leaning on it, and at the specialist end sit the stainless steel security meshes and the ember-resistant meshes for bushfire areas. The right mesh depends entirely on what you are keeping out and what the screen has to put up with. A standard mesh that is perfect on an upstairs window can be the wrong choice on a back door the dog uses, which is why one house often wants more than one mesh.

Frames and finishes tie the screen to the look of the home. Most flyscreen frames are powder-coated aluminium, available in the common window colours so the screen blends with the existing joinery rather than standing out against it, and a good installer matches the frame colour to the windows as a matter of course. The frame profile is chosen to suit the window or door it serves, slim for a fixed window screen, sturdier for a screen door that gets handled daily. On a period home with timber windows, the screen has to be detailed sympathetically so it does not jar against the original joinery. The finish is a small thing that makes the difference between a screen that looks like it belongs and one that looks like an afterthought. On the street front of a home it is worth getting right, since a mismatched screen is the kind of detail that quietly lets the whole frontage down.

Windows, Doors and Awkward Openings

The window type decides the screen, because a screen has to suit how the window opens. A sliding window takes a screen on the opening half, a double-hung window that slides up and down needs a screen across the lower or whole opening, and an awning or casement window that winds outward needs a screen on the inside with the winder accessible through it. Getting this right is the difference between a screen that works with the window and one that fouls the handle or blocks the opening, which is exactly the kind of thing a measure-and-make approach gets right and an off-the-shelf screen often does not. Older Victorian homes are full of windows that are not standard sizes, so a made-to-measure screen is frequently the only thing that fits properly. An installer who measures each opening rather than guessing is the one whose screens actually sit flush. A millimetre or two out on a screen is the difference between one that clicks neatly into place and one that rattles or leaves a gap insects find.

Doors bring their own considerations, since they are used constantly and have to close reliably. A hinged screen door needs a closer to bring it shut so it does not stand open inviting insects in, and a latch that catches every time, while a sliding screen door needs its rollers and track running smoothly so it does not jam or jump off. The screen door also has to suit the way the entrance is used, with a sturdier mesh and frame where children and pets push through it daily, which overlaps with the considerations around a sliding door or front entry door. Where a pet needs its own way through, a flap can be fitted into a screen door through pet door installation in doors and screens. A door screen that closes itself and latches cleanly is worth far more than one left to be pulled shut by hand. The screen left open by a closer that has given up is the one that lets the evening's mosquitoes straight in, which defeats the whole point of fitting it.

The awkward openings are where a flyscreen specialist earns the call over a hardware-shop kit. Arched windows, very large panes, high windows over a stairwell, and the big alfresco openings created by bifold and stacker doors all need a tailored answer rather than a standard frame, and the retractable and motorised options exist precisely for these. A wide opening served by stacker and bifold doors is the classic case for a retractable screen that pulls across when wanted. Patio and outdoor living spaces sometimes call for the larger outdoor blinds and patio screens rather than a window screen. The harder the opening, the more a measure-and-make installer is worth over a one-size kit that never quite fits. A big opening done badly is far more frustrating, and more expensive to put right, than the same opening done properly the first time.

Flyscreens and Window Fall Safety

This is the most important thing on the whole page, so it is worth stating plainly: a flyscreen is an insect screen, not a safety barrier, and it will not stop a child falling from a window. A flyscreen is designed to hold mesh against insects, not to take the weight of a person, so a child leaning on one will push it straight out of the window, which is a known and tragic cause of falls from upper-storey windows. No flyscreen, however well made, changes this, and treating a screen as if it makes an open window safe for a child is a dangerous mistake. The mesh keeps mosquitoes out, and that is all it is built to do. Believing otherwise has cost lives, which is why this point is worth labouring rather than mentioning in passing.

The real protection against window falls is a different device, and the building rules require it where the risk is real. The National Construction Code requires that windows in certain rooms, particularly bedrooms, where the floor is high enough above the ground outside, either restrict how far the window opens or be protected by a barrier, so a young child cannot fall through, and these requirements sit within the building rules overseen by the Building and Plumbing Commission. A window opening restrictor that limits the gap to a safe amount, or a proper guard, is what actually prevents a fall, and these are separate from any flyscreen. If there are young children in the home and the windows open wide above ground level, the restrictors or guards are the thing to ask about, not a heavier screen. A reputable flyscreen installer will tell you this honestly rather than letting you believe a screen does a job it cannot. It is one of the clearest tests of whether you are dealing with someone trustworthy, because the honest answer costs them a sale of a heavier screen they cannot in good conscience offer as a fix.

Understanding the line keeps everyone safer. A flyscreen does its insect job perfectly well and is worth having on every window you want to open, but it sits alongside fall safety rather than providing it, so the two should be thought about together rather than confused. Where window fall safety is the concern, the right answer is restrictors or guards, often arranged when windows are installed or replaced through window installation and repairs. Combining a good flyscreen for the insects with a proper restrictor for the children gives you both, which is what a sensible home aims for. Guidance on child safety and window falls is part of the building requirements, and a careful installer points you to it rather than glossing over it. For a home with toddlers and high windows, sorting the restrictors is far more urgent than any screen, and the two are simply different jobs.

Pets, Midges and Bushfire Mesh

Pets are the most common reason people upgrade beyond standard mesh. A cat that climbs a screen or a dog that leans and scratches at one will shred ordinary fibreglass mesh in no time, so a heavier pet-resistant mesh, woven from much tougher strands, is the sensible choice on any door or window an animal uses. It costs a little more than standard mesh but saves re-meshing the same screen every few months, and it still lets the air and the insects' exclusion do their work. For a screen door a pet pushes through daily, pairing pet-resistant mesh with a pet flap fitted into the screen often solves the whole problem at once. The mesh that survives a determined cat is a small upgrade that pays for itself in a household with animals. It is also kinder on the nerves, since you stop bracing for the sound of claws going through the back-door screen every afternoon.

Midges and fine biting insects are a Victorian reality near water, and they defeat ordinary mesh. Along the bay, around the Gippsland Lakes, and in coastal and riverside towns, the tiny midges and sandflies that bite at dusk are small enough to pass straight through standard fibreglass mesh, so a finer midge mesh with a tighter weave is what actually keeps them out. The trade-off is slightly less airflow and visibility through the tighter mesh, which is a fair price where the alternative is a room full of bites. For homes in these areas, midge mesh is not an indulgence, it is the only screen that does the job. An installer who knows the local insect problem will recommend it without being asked in the spots that need it. Anyone who has lived near the water through a still summer evening knows exactly why the finer mesh is worth the small trade-off in airflow.

Bushfire areas bring a different and more serious mesh requirement. On the bushfire-prone fringes of Melbourne and across regional Victoria, a home assessed for bushfire risk may need ember-resistant screens, made from corrosion-resistant steel or bronze mesh with a fine aperture, fitted to windows and doors to stop wind-blown embers entering, and these requirements come from the bushfire construction standard applied through the building rules. This is genuine fire-safety hardware rather than insect protection, and it is specified according to a property's assessed bushfire attack level. A standard flyscreen does nothing for ember protection, so in these areas the right mesh is part of building or upgrading for the risk. A home in a designated bushfire area should treat its screens as part of the fire plan, and an installer familiar with the requirement can advise what is needed. This is one area where it genuinely pays to use someone who works in bushfire construction rather than a general screen fitter, since the mesh and the fixing both have to be right.

Repair, Re-mesh or Replace

Most flyscreen jobs start with a simple decision: repair, re-mesh, or replace entirely. Re-meshing keeps the existing frame and stretches new mesh into it, which is the cheapest option by far and the right one when the frame is sound but the mesh has torn, sagged or gone brittle with age and sun. Replacing the whole screen makes sense when the frame itself is bent, corroded or no longer square, since new mesh in a tired frame will not sit well, and when you want to upgrade to a different mesh or a better-fitting unit. A repair, refitting a screen that has popped out or fixing a door closer, sits between the two. Knowing which your screens need is the first step, and a quick look usually tells the story. A frame that still sits square with only tired mesh is a re-mesh, while one you can flex in your hands has had its day. The corners are the giveaway, since that is where an aluminium frame loosens and corrodes first. Once the corners have gone, a re-mesh will not hold, and the frame is simply past saving.

The age and condition of the frame is what tips the decision. An aluminium frame in good order can be re-meshed many times over its life, which makes re-meshing the sensible default for a sound screen with bad mesh, while a frame that has corroded at the corners or lost its shape is past saving and better replaced. Sun is the great enemy of old mesh, making fibreglass brittle until it tears at a touch, so a house full of screens of the same age often reaches the point where re-meshing them all at once is the efficient move. Doing a batch together usually brings the per-screen price down. The cheapest path overall is usually re-meshing sound frames rather than replacing screens wholesale. Holding on to good frames and refreshing only the mesh is the quiet economy that an experienced installer will steer you toward.

Doing it yourself is genuinely an option for the simplest cases, with a caveat. Re-mesh kits are sold for the handy homeowner, and stretching new mesh into a straightforward window frame is within reach of many people, which is part of why this trade is unlicensed and accessible. The catch is that a poor re-mesh that sags, ripples or pulls out of the spline looks worse than the torn screen it replaced, and made-to-measure screens for odd windows or screen doors with closers and tracks are better left to someone who does them daily. For a single sound frame the do-it-yourself route can save a little, while for a house of awkward windows the installer's measure and finish are worth paying for. The honest answer is that the easy ones are doable and the fiddly ones repay a professional. There is no shame in doing the simple front windows yourself and calling someone for the awkward stairwell screen and the back door.

Security Screens and Where Flyscreens Stop

It is worth being clear about what a flyscreen is not, because the words get muddled in the shops. A flyscreen keeps insects out and offers no security at all, since its light frame and mesh can be pushed in or cut through in seconds, so it should never be mistaken for protection against an intruder. A security screen is a different and much stronger product, built to a security standard with a heavy frame, a strong stainless steel or structural mesh, and proper locks, and it is the thing that actually adds security to a door or window. The two can look similar from a distance, but they are built to do entirely different jobs at entirely different prices. Confusing the two, and paying flyscreen money expecting security, is a mistake worth avoiding. Just as costly is the reverse, paying for security screens on upstairs windows where insects are the only real concern.

Where security matters, the right product is a certified security screen rather than a flyscreen. Security doors and window screens are made and tested to recognised standards, with the better ones carrying ratings for the force and attacks they resist, and they belong on the entrances and accessible windows where you want both airflow and protection. This is the realm of security doors and screens rather than flyscreens, often paired with proper locks through locksmith and lock repairs. A home can sensibly mix the two, security screens on the doors and ground-floor windows, plain flyscreens on the upper windows where insects are the only concern. Matching the product to the actual need, insect exclusion or security, is what stops you overpaying or under-protecting. A good installer helps you draw that line room by room rather than selling the same product across the whole house.

Comfort and energy round out what screens contribute to a home. By letting windows and doors stay open for breeze, good screens reduce the need to run cooling on mild evenings, and pairing them with the right window furnishings helps a home manage heat and light, which is where blinds and curtains and proper draught proofing and sealing come in. A screen that lets a Melbourne home be aired on a warm night is doing quiet work for comfort as well as for keeping insects out. None of this is the screen's main job, but it is a real side benefit of being able to open up a house. Thought of as part of how a home breathes and stays comfortable, screens earn more of their keep than their modest cost suggests. For a household that would rather open a window than reach for the remote, they are a quietly worthwhile fitting.

What Drives Flyscreen Pricing in Victoria

Pricing starts with the type of job, since a re-mesh, a new window screen and a screen door are very different things. Re-meshing an existing frame is the cheapest work in the trade, a new made-to-measure window screen costs more because the frame is built and the screen fitted, and a screen door costs more again for the door, the closer and the track. The mesh feeds in next, with standard fibreglass cheapest and pet-resistant, fine midge and especially bushfire and security meshes costing progressively more. The size and shape of the opening matter, since a large or awkward window takes more frame and more care than a small standard one. Two screen jobs described in the same breath can land far apart once the type, the mesh and the size are counted. A back door with a heavy pet-resistant screen and a closer is a different proposition from a single upstairs re-mesh, even though both are flyscreen work.

The number of screens and the way they are done together moves the price in your favour. A single screen carries the full overhead of a visit, while a whole house of windows re-screened or replaced at once spreads that overhead and usually brings the per-window price down noticeably. This is why it often pays to do all the tired screens in a house in one go rather than one at a time as each tears. Measuring is part of the job too, and a made-to-measure approach for odd windows costs a little more than a stock size but actually fits. Bundling the work is the simplest way to get the price per screen down. It also means one visit, one measure-up and one tidy finish rather than a string of small call-outs spread over a summer. For a whole house of tired screens, that single coordinated visit is both cheaper and far less hassle.

Geography and the special requirements round out the picture across Victoria. Pricing is competitive through metropolitan Melbourne, while jobs in Geelong, Ballarat, Bendigo, the Latrobe Valley and Gippsland, Shepparton, Mildura, the Mornington Peninsula and the broader regions carry travel, especially for a single small job where the call-out is a large part of the cost. A coastal home needing midge mesh, or a bushfire-area home needing ember-resistant screens, pays for the specialist mesh that does the job a standard screen cannot. Retractable and motorised screens for big openings sit at the top of the range. The cheapest quote that uses thin mesh, a poor fit or the wrong mesh for your situation is no saving once it tears or fails to keep the insects out.

Value in flyscreen work is easy to judge because the result is plainly visible. A screen that fits flush, uses the right mesh for your insects and pets, and on a door closes and latches itself, is cheap against the comfort of being able to open the house and the years it lasts. The little saved on thin mesh or a rough fit is repaid in a screen that sags, tears or never quite sits right, which is more annoying than the saving was worth. Spread against the comfort of an aired home through a Victorian summer, good screens are a small and sensible cost. Done well, they are the quiet fittings you forget about because they simply do their job. A screen you never notice is a screen working exactly as it should, every warm evening of the year.

What to Look Out For

The clearest filter on a flyscreen installer is honesty about what a screen does and does not do. A trustworthy operator will measure each opening rather than guess, recommend the right mesh for your pets, your insects or your bushfire area, and tell you plainly that a flyscreen is not a fall-safety barrier or a security screen. Be wary of anyone who implies a screen makes an open window safe for a child, or who sells a flyscreen as if it offers security, because both are dangerous misunderstandings to encourage. An installer who never asks about pets, young children, or whether the home is near water or in a bushfire area has not really listened to the job. The one who measures, asks the right questions and is straight about the limits is the one to hire. That straightness about what a screen can and cannot do is the single best sign you are dealing with a professional rather than a salesperson.

Even on a small job, the detail in a flyscreen quote is what shows the quality. A useful flyscreen quote says what each screen is, the mesh it uses, whether it is a re-mesh or a new unit, and for a door whether a closer and latch are included, and it should price a whole-house job per window so you can see the rate. The classic vague spots are the mesh grade left unstated, the door closer treated as an extra, and the measuring assumed to be your responsibility. A single lump with no breakdown is hard to judge on a multi-screen job. Ask for the mesh type and the per-screen rate to be named, because an installer who knows their product will state them without hesitation.

Because the trade is unlicensed, the protection sits in the workmanship and the consumer law rather than a certificate. A capable installer stands behind the fit and the mesh, fixes a screen that sags or pulls out, and uses mesh suited to the job rather than the thinnest option. Anyone who fits screens that do not sit flush, uses the wrong mesh for your situation, or disappears when one tears within weeks is one to avoid. The consumer guarantees administered by Consumer Affairs Victoria and the national protections overseen by the ACCC still require the work and the goods to be of acceptable quality, even with no licence involved. A clear written quote and a tidy result are what you are really judging here. Reviews and a look at the installer's past work fill the gap left by the absence of a licence.

How to Get Useful Quotes

The most useful thing you can tell an installer up front is the count and the context. Say how many windows and doors need screens, whether they are re-meshes or new screens, and what you are keeping out, ordinary flies, midges near the water, or a determined pet, because that points straight to the mesh. Note whether any screen doors are involved, since those carry the closer and track, and whether the home is in a bushfire area, which changes the mesh entirely. A few photos of the windows, the existing screens and the doors help an installer scope the job, and the suburb matters for travel. The clearer the picture, the closer the quote and the fewer surprises when the installer measures up.

For more than a single screen, a measure-up sharpens the quote and is usually free. An installer who comes and measures each opening can price the frames, the mesh and the fit accurately, where a number given off a rough description tends to move once the real sizes and conditions appear. Use the visit to ask the questions this guide has raised, which mesh suits your pets, insects or bushfire area, whether your windows need made-to-measure screens, and, where there are young children, to confirm that fall safety is handled by restrictors rather than the screen. Ask for the mesh grade and the per-screen rate in writing, so the quotes describe the same thing. Comparing quotes on the same mesh and the same openings protects you in a way comparing bare numbers does not. Once everyone is quoting the same mesh, the differences come down to fit, finish and price, which are easy to weigh.

Rather than chasing installers one by one, a single post on The Quote Yard reaches several Victorian flyscreen installers at once. Set the replies against the same points, the number of screens, the mesh grade, re-mesh against new, any screen doors with closers, and GST, and they finally describe the same thing. If one figure undercuts the others sharply, asking what mesh it uses, or whether the closer and measuring are included, usually explains the gap. The quote worth backing names the mesh and prices the job per screen, and collecting a few costs nothing, which is especially worthwhile on a whole-house re-screen.

Quality, Consumer Law and Getting It Right

Because flyscreen work is unlicensed, the things that protect you are the quality of the goods, the workmanship and the consumer law, rather than a permit or certificate. A good screen is judged on whether it fits flush, whether the mesh is right for the job and well tensioned, and whether a door screen closes and latches as it should, and these are visible the day the work is done. Keeping the quote and any written warranty on the mesh and frame matters, since better meshes and frames carry manufacturer warranties against perishing and corrosion. The few documents worth holding are the quote, the mesh details and any warranty, which together are what you rely on if a screen fails early. A tidy, well-fitted result is the real assurance on a job like this.

The consumer guarantees apply to screens as they do to any goods and service, which is the backstop where something goes wrong. Under the framework administered by Consumer Affairs Victoria and the national protections overseen by the ACCC, the screens supplied must be of acceptable quality and the work carried out with due care and skill, so a screen that tears in weeks or never fitted properly is something you can take up with the installer. Where screens are part of a wider window-and-door project, the work ties into window installation and repairs and glass repairs and window replacement, so the whole opening can be considered together. The broader regulatory picture, including the building rules around window safety and bushfire mesh, is available through the Victorian Government. Knowing your rights makes an unlicensed trade just as safe to buy from as a licensed one.

The one place to be uncompromising is safety, because that is the part a screen cannot deliver. A flyscreen is an excellent insect screen and a poor barrier, so where young children and high windows meet, the answer is a window restrictor or guard, not a heavier screen, and where security or bushfire risk is real, the answer is a certified security or ember-resistant product, not an ordinary flyscreen. Getting the insect screen right is easy and worth doing well, but it should never be mistaken for the safety hardware that does a different job. An installer who is clear about this line is one who has your interests at heart rather than just a screen to sell. Choose someone who measures properly, recommends the right mesh and is honest about the limits, and a simple, unlicensed job is one you can buy with complete confidence.