Spray Painting Costs SA 2026 - Get Free Quotes

Spray Painting Costs in South Australia

Sprayed application across South Australia generally costs $8 to $18 per square metre for ceilings in an empty building, $9 to $22 per square metre for warehouse and commercial interiors, $12 to $28 per square metre on exterior walls, $12 to $25 per lineal metre per side on fencing and $80 to $250 per door sprayed off site. Hourly rates run $70 to $120 with equipment included. Ask for that to be named on the written quote. A site inspection settles it properly.

Spray is a method, not a product, and it is faster than brushing by a wide margin on the right surface. The misunderstanding that costs people money is assuming speed equals savings. Spraying the surface is quick. Protecting everything you are not spraying is slow, and on a typical suburban house that protection can take longer than brushing the whole job would have. This is why a sprayer will sometimes recommend brushing your house and it is honest advice rather than a lack of equipment.

Where spray really wins is large uninterrupted areas, surfaces with texture or gaps that a brush cannot reach, and anywhere a factory quality finish matters. An empty warehouse, a new house before floors and fittings arrive, a paling fence, a lattice screen, a run of roof sheeting or a set of cabinet doors are all cases where spraying is both faster and better. An occupied home on a narrow allotment with a neighbour's car in the driveway is not. The other thing to settle before work starts is drift. Atomised paint carries much further than people expect, it lands on things nobody intended, and it is the largest single source of dispute in this trade. In Adelaide the afternoon sea breeze makes that a scheduling question rather than an afterthought.

This page covers when to spray, masking, equipment types, back rolling, overspray and liability, wind, solar panels, safety, two pack work and doing it yourself. General background sits in the SA painters guide, with method choices discussed further in exterior painting. Most contractors will confirm it on request. That detail is where two quotes diverge.

When Spray Beats Brush and Roller

The decision comes down to the ratio between area sprayed and area masked. Spray is the clear choice on ceilings in an empty or unfinished building, warehouse and factory interiors, roof sheeting, fencing with palings or lattice, timber screens and fretwork, metal balustrades and gates, textured coatings, and cabinetry and joinery where a brush free finish matters. Worth agreeing before work is booked. Get the method stated rather than implied.

Brush and roller are the better choice inside an occupied home, on small areas, anywhere with a lot of cutting in, on a wall broken up by fittings, and wherever masking would take longer than painting. Fencing deserves specific mention because it is where the difference is most dramatic. A paling fence sprayed takes a fraction of the time it takes brushed, and more importantly the product reaches into the gaps between palings and the edges of each board, which a brush simply cannot do properly. The same applies to lattice, which is close to unpaintable by brush at any sensible cost. Deck and fence painting covers the product side of that work.

New construction is the other standout. A house sprayed before floor coverings, joinery and fittings go in has almost nothing to protect, which is why new home painting is priced so much lower per square metre than a repaint. Many jobs end up using both. Walls sprayed and trim brushed is a common and sensible combination, capturing the speed on the large areas and the control on the detail.

Why Masking Takes Longer Than Spraying

The single most common misunderstanding about spray painting is how the time divides, and it is worth correcting before you read any quote. On a typical interior job, masking and protection account for somewhere between sixty and eighty per cent of the labour, while the actual spraying occupies a couple of hours. That ratio is what makes spray application uneconomic on a single small room and highly economic on a whole empty house, because the setup cost is largely fixed regardless of how much surface follows it. What masking actually involves surprises people who have only watched the spraying. Every window, door frame, light fitting, power point, floor surface, benchtop and fixture that is not being coated has to be covered and sealed, because atomised paint travels and settles on everything in the room. Plastic sheeting, masking tape, drop sheets and film all go up before a compressor is switched on, and the quality of that work determines whether the finish looks professional or whether you spend a weekend scraping overspray off glass.

The economics follow directly from that. Spraying one bedroom in an occupied house means a full setup for a small area, which is why most painters will quote it as brush and roll instead and charge less. Spraying an entire empty house before the furniture arrives spreads the same setup across every wall and ceiling in the building, and the per square metre rate falls accordingly. Occupancy is therefore the largest single variable in a spray quote. An empty house can be masked once, sprayed room by room and finished in days, while an occupied house needs each room isolated, protected and cleaned down before moving to the next. That sequencing can double the labour on the same floor area.

The practical takeaway is to time spray work to a vacancy if you possibly can. Between tenancies, before moving in, or during a period when the household can stay elsewhere are the three windows where spraying makes the most financial sense. Outside those, brush and roll is frequently the better value option and there is no shame in a painter telling you so. The answer tells you how it was scoped.

Why Masking Is the Real Cost

On most domestic jobs, masking and setup account for a larger share of the hours than spraying does. A sprayer arriving at an occupied house has to protect windows and glass, door frames, gutters and downpipes if they are not being coated, meter boxes and fittings, air conditioning units, paving and driveways, gardens and plants, outdoor furniture, vehicles, and anything on a neighbouring property within drift range. That is hours of work before a trigger is pulled, and it is entirely invisible in the finished result. Ask what happens if conditions differ.

What that means is that spray is not automatically cheaper for a homeowner. A quote that offers brushing at a similar price to spraying is not necessarily a worse deal, and on a complex site brushing may really be the more efficient method. You can reduce the cost by reducing what needs protecting. Move vehicles off the property, take down outdoor furniture and washing lines, clear plant pots and garden ornaments, trim back plants against the wall, and let the neighbours know so they can move their own cars. None of that requires skill and all of it is time you are otherwise paying for.

Ask any spray quote to state what masking is included and who is responsible for moving what. It is the single most useful clarification in this trade and it prevents both a surprise on the invoice and an argument about a marked car. Check it against the written scope. Confirm which product system applies.

Airless, HVLP and What They Suit

Customers hear spray as one thing, and the equipment types produce quite different results. Airless is the workhorse for buildings. A pump forces paint through a small tip at very high pressure, which atomises it without compressed air, and the result is high output and a heavy film build in a single pass. It suits walls, ceilings, roofs, fences and large exteriors, and it handles thick products including textured coatings. It produces more overspray than the finer methods and it is less suited to fine joinery.

HVLP stands for high volume low pressure. It moves a larger volume of air at low pressure, which atomises the paint more gently, producing a finer finish with sizeable less overspray and less wasted material. It is slower and it does not suit heavy products, which is why it belongs on cabinetry, joinery, doors and furniture rather than on a house exterior. Air assisted airless sits between the two, using airless pressure with a small amount of air to refine the pattern, and it is common on commercial joinery and larger fine finish work.

Electrostatic spraying charges the paint particles so they are attracted to an earthed metal surface, wrapping around it and dramatically reducing waste. It is used on metal in commercial and industrial settings, including balustrades, fencing and shopfitting, rather than on domestic buildings. The useful question to ask is not which brand of gun but which method they intend to use on your surface and why. A contractor proposing HVLP for your house exterior or airless for your kitchen cabinets has picked the wrong tool. Cabinet respraying is the clearest case where equipment choice determines the result.

Back Rolling and Film Build

This is a technique question that separates a durable sprayed finish from one that looks right and fails early. Spraying lays paint onto a surface. It does not work the paint into it. On a porous or textured substrate, including render, masonry, bare timber and fibre cement, that distinction matters, because a film sitting on top of a porous surface has less mechanical grip than one that has been worked into the profile. Back rolling is the remedy. The applicator sprays a section and immediately follows with a roller over the wet coating, pushing the product into the surface before it sets.

It is standard practice on first coats over porous exteriors and on textured surfaces, and it is one of the first things dropped when a job is rushed. The finish looks identical on the day either way, which is precisely why it gets skipped. Film build is the related issue. Airless spraying can apply a very heavy coat quickly, and applying too much in one pass causes runs and sags on vertical surfaces, while moving too fast leaves a coat thinner than the specification requires. Neither is visible to an owner watching from the ground.

The check available to you is the quote. A specification naming the product and the number of coats can be compared against the manufacturer's stated spreading rate, and a job that used dramatically less material than that rate implies has been applied too thin. Preparation specialists and applicators working properly will discuss back rolling without being asked. Raise it at the first conversation.

Overspray, Drift and Liability

This is the section that matters most, because overspray causes more disputes in spray painting than every other issue combined. Atomised paint is made of very fine droplets, and fine droplets stay airborne. Even in light conditions a proportion of the material drifts beyond the target, and in any breeze it travels considerably further than the person holding the gun expects. It costs nothing to ask up front.

The things it lands on are predictable. Vehicles, both yours and those parked on the street. Windows and glass. Solar panels.

Swimming pools. Neighbouring fences, walls, washing on a line, outdoor furniture and gardens. Paving and driveways. Overspray on a car is the classic and it is expensive, because removing cured paint from automotive clear coat is specialist work and sometimes requires a respray of the affected panels.

The controls are straightforward and a professional operation uses all of them. Assess wind before starting and stop when it picks up. Mask and screen generously, extending protection well beyond the obvious. Use the lowest practical pressure and a suitable tip size, since excessive pressure creates more fine droplets. Choose equipment suited to the setting, with HVLP producing far less drift than airless. And notify neighbours before starting rather than apologising afterwards.

Insurance is the backstop and you should verify it rather than assume it. Ask for a certificate of currency for public liability cover before work begins, and confirm in writing who is responsible if drift reaches a neighbouring property. Consumer protections are administered by the ACCC, and drift onto other property or into stormwater also raises environmental obligations administered by the South Australian Environment Protection Authority. Most contractors confirm it on request.

Adelaide Wind and When to Spray

Weather governs spray work far more tightly than it governs brush work, and Adelaide has a daily pattern that a local contractor plans around. Metropolitan Adelaide sees light mornings with a sea breeze building through the afternoon, particularly through the warmer months. That makes mornings the reliable spraying window and afternoons progressively less suitable, especially on the coastal plain from Semaphore through Glenelg to Brighton where the breeze arrives earlier and stronger. Have it recorded before any deposit.

A contractor who wants to start at seven and finish spraying by early afternoon is working with the conditions rather than being inflexible. Northerly wind days bring a different problem. Hot northerlies carry dust and grit, and airborne particles settling into a wet coating are locked in permanently. The Riverland, the Mallee, the mid north and the upper gulf towns see this more often than the plains, and a day lost to wind costs less than a wall that has to be sanded and recoated.

Heat adds its own constraint. Spraying in high temperatures causes the droplets to lose solvent or water before they land, producing dry spray, which is a rough, gritty, poorly bonded surface. On a 38 degree Adelaide afternoon against a north facing wall the material can be partly dry on arrival. The Adelaide Hills and the Limestone Coast have the opposite issue in winter, with humidity and slow drying extending recoat times and dew risk in the late afternoon. What that means for a customer is scheduling flexibility. A sprayer who calls off a windy day is protecting your neighbour's car and your finish, and pushing them to work through it is a false economy.

Solar Panels and Drift

South Australia has among the highest rates of rooftop solar in the world, which makes this a routine consideration here rather than an unusual one. Overspray on solar panels is a genuine problem. Even a light film of drift reduces the light reaching the cells, and unlike a window it cannot simply be scraped, because the panel surface is a coated glass laminate that is easily damaged by abrasive cleaning or solvents. The written scope should say so plainly.

Removing cured paint from a panel array is difficult, and in bad cases panels have to be replaced. Prevention is straightforward. Panels on the building being sprayed should be covered properly, not just avoided, and panels on neighbouring roofs need to be considered when assessing wind direction and distance. Where a roof is being sprayed, removing the array is often the sensible answer, which is licensed electrical work rather than something a painting crew does.

Raise it at the quoting stage and get it into the written scope, including panels on adjacent properties. A contractor who has walked the site and looked at the neighbouring roofs is doing the job properly. Roof coating contractors deal with this constantly and solar installers handle removal and refitting. Solar hot water panels and evacuated tube systems carry the same issue and are more fragile again.

Injection Injury and Breathing Risk

Two hazards in spray painting deserve to be understood by anyone considering hiring equipment, because one of them is not obvious at all. Airless spray equipment operates at extremely high pressure, in the thousands of pounds per square inch. At that pressure the stream can penetrate skin and inject paint into the tissue beneath, which is called an injection injury. It frequently looks trivial, sometimes appearing as a small puncture with little bleeding and modest pain, and it is a genuine medical emergency requiring immediate hospital assessment and usually surgery. Delay causes serious tissue damage and can result in amputation.

Anyone who suffers a suspected injection injury should go to an emergency department immediately and tell staff what material was injected, taking the product data sheet if possible. Tip guards, trigger locks and never pointing the gun at any part of the body are the basic controls, and relieving pressure before clearing a blocked tip is the specific step most often skipped. This is the strongest argument against a homeowner hiring an airless unit for a weekend. The second hazard is respiratory. Atomised paint is far more inhalable than brushed paint, because spraying deliberately creates a fine mist and that mist reaches deep into the lungs. Suitable respiratory protection is required even with waterborne products, and cartridge respirators are the minimum for most work while air supplied respirators are needed for two pack products.

Solvent based products add a vapour and ignition risk in enclosed spaces, since vapours are heavier than air and pool at floor level near appliances and pilot lights. Workplace requirements are administered by SafeWork SA and health information by SA Health. Ask how the figure changes if it does. A short phone call clears this up.

Two Pack and Booth Work

The finest sprayed finishes come from two pack systems, and they carry a boundary that matters to a homeowner. Two pack polyurethane cures by chemical reaction between a resin and a hardener rather than by drying, and it produces the hard, smooth, chemically resistant surface seen on factory finished cabinetry and joinery. Nothing brushed comes close to it. These products contain isocyanates, which are respiratory sensitisers. Once a person is sensitised, further exposure at very low levels can trigger a severe reaction, so they require proper spray booth conditions, extraction and usually air supplied respiratory protection.

The practical consequence is simple. Two pack should not be sprayed inside an occupied home, and an offer to do so is a reason to look elsewhere. The normal arrangement is that components go off site to a booth. Doors, cabinet fronts, joinery and furniture are removed, transported, sprayed under controlled conditions and returned, which also produces a better result because a booth gives filtered air, controlled temperature and dust free curing. Most Adelaide spray shops operate booths in the industrial areas around Wingfield, Regency Park, Lonsdale and Edwardstown, and a hybrid arrangement with removable components done off site and fixed work done on site in a waterborne product is the standard approach on a domestic job. Waterborne enamels have improved to the point that they are a credible on site alternative for most residential work, offering low odour and safe application with reasonable ventilation.

What Actually Gets Sprayed

The range is wider than most people picture, and knowing what suits the method helps you ask for it where it makes sense. On buildings: exterior walls in render, fibre cement or weatherboard, ceilings in unfurnished spaces, roof sheeting, eaves, and full interiors in new construction before fitout. On outdoor structures: paling and lattice fencing, timber screens, pergolas, carport frames, gates and metal balustrades. This category is where spraying delivers its biggest time advantage and its best coverage.

On joinery: kitchen and bathroom cabinetry, wardrobe doors, internal doors, window frames and furniture, generally in a booth off site. On commercial and industrial work: warehouse and factory interiors, structural steel with protective systems, shopfitting, and hygienic coatings for food production and winery environments across the Barossa, Clare, McLaren Vale and the Riverland. Commercial painters handle that end of the market. Textured coatings are a specific case to name, since they are applied by spray almost universally because their thickness and aggregate content make brushing impractical. They consume considerably more material per square metre, which is why the rate is higher. Texture coating is priced as its own system.

Floor coatings sit adjacent and use different equipment again, with rollers and squeegees more common than spray on domestic garage work. Garage floor coating covers that. Put the question in writing if unsure. Established operators answer this readily.

Hiring a Sprayer Yourself

Airless units are available from hire outlets and the temptation is obvious, since the equipment looks straightforward and the time saving is real. The honest position is that this is the least suitable painting equipment for an inexperienced user, and the reason is the injection injury risk described above rather than finish quality. Beyond safety, the practical failures are consistent. Inadequate masking is the first, because a novice underestimates drift range by a wide margin and discovers it on a car. Poor pattern control is the second, producing stripes, runs and dry patches that take longer to fix than brushing would have taken. And equipment handling is the third, since airless units need correct priming, tip selection, pressure setting and thorough cleaning, and a machine returned unclean attracts a charge.

There are reasonable DIY spray applications. A fence in an open rural setting with nothing downwind, a shed, or garden furniture on a still morning are all manageable with a smaller unit and proper eye and respiratory protection. A house exterior in a suburban street is not, and the potential cost of getting it wrong exceeds the saving by a wide margin. If you do hire, read the manual on pressure relief before clearing a blocked tip, never put a hand near the tip with the unit pressurised, wear proper respiratory protection rather than a dust mask, and check the wind before starting. Smaller painting contractors often quote reasonably on the jobs people consider hiring equipment for.

What a Sprayed Finish Actually Gives You

Spray application produces a finish that brush and roll cannot match, and understanding exactly where that difference shows helps you decide whether it is worth paying for on your job. The coating is atomised and deposited as a continuous film with no applicator texture, so there are no brush marks, no roller stipple and no lap lines where one section met another. On a flat, close-range, well-lit surface that difference is obvious to anyone. Where it matters most is on joinery, doors, cabinetry and any gloss or semi-gloss finish. Those surfaces are viewed closely and reflect light directionally, which is exactly the condition that reveals applicator texture. A sprayed door and a rolled door sitting side by side in the same colour look like different products.

Where it matters least is on textured walls, ceilings and anything viewed from a distance or in diffuse light. A ceiling in flat white gains very little from spraying beyond speed, and a textured render exterior hides applicator marks entirely. Paying a premium for spray application on those surfaces buys you time rather than appearance. Film thickness is the other genuine advantage and it is less visible but more useful. Spraying lays down a more consistent film than a roller does, particularly into profiles, mouldings and corners where a roller cannot reach evenly, and consistent film build is what determines how long a coating lasts rather than how it looks on day one.

Back-rolling is the technique that bridges the two, and any competent operator will raise it. Spraying the coating on and immediately rolling it out works the material into porous substrates like new plasterboard and bare render, which spray alone does not do well, and it gives the adhesion of rolling with the speed of spraying. Ask whether back-rolling is included on porous substrates, since it is the step most often dropped under time pressure. On new plasterboard and bare render it is what makes the difference between a coating that bonds and one that sits on the surface.

Overspray and the Neighbours

Exterior spray painting creates a problem that no other painting method does, which is that atomised coating travels on the slightest breeze and lands on whatever is downwind. On a detached house on a large block that is manageable, and on a typical Adelaide suburban block with a neighbour four metres away it is the defining constraint of the whole job. Overspray on a neighbour's car, roof, solar panels or washing is a civil matter, and the cost of rectification dwarfs any saving spraying delivered. Planning for it is what separates a job that passes without incident from one that ends in a conversation with the neighbours.

Wind is the controlling factor and competent operators simply do not spray in it. A breeze that feels mild at ground level carries atomised paint a surprising distance, and most spray systems specify a maximum wind speed for exactly that reason. A contractor who proposes to spray an exterior on a gusty Adelaide afternoon is either inexperienced or indifferent to the consequences. The Adelaide sea breeze pattern makes mornings the reliable window through most of the year.

Containment is the second control and it is visible in the quote. Screening the work area, sheeting adjacent boundaries, and shutting down when conditions change all cost time, and an exterior spray quote that is priced the same as an interior one has probably not allowed for any of it. Ask specifically what containment is planned. Ask specifically what screening is planned and where it will be positioned.

Talking to the neighbours beforehand is worth more than most owners expect. Asking them to move vehicles, bring in washing and close windows on the scheduled days costs nothing, builds goodwill and removes the most common sources of complaint before they occur. It also means that if something does happen, the conversation starts from a better place. A note in the letterbox a few days ahead does most of the work.

Solar panels deserve a specific mention in South Australia given how many roofs carry them. Overspray on panels is difficult to remove without damaging the surface, reduces output while it remains, and is a claim nobody wants to be making. Where panels are present on your roof or a neighbour's, raise them at quoting stage rather than on the day. Overspray on a panel array is difficult to remove and reduces output while it remains, so raise it at quoting stage rather than on the day.

What Drives the Price

Masking dominates on domestic work and it is the reason spray does not automatically save money. Occupancy and site density follow directly, since an empty building with clear surroundings is the cheapest possible spray job and an occupied house on a narrow allotment is the most expensive. Surface complexity changes the ratio, because a plain wall sprays in minutes while one broken up by windows, pipework and fittings needs each element masked. Material consumption runs higher than brushing because atomisation wastes some product, and textured or high build systems raise that further. Weather windows affect the program and therefore the price on exterior work, since a job that can only proceed on calm mornings takes more days than one that can run all day. Equipment and containment add a distinct layer on commercial and industrial jobs, and booth work carries transport and handling on top of the spraying itself.

Spray Painting Costs Across Adelaide

Adelaide pricing tracks site conditions more than suburb, and the biggest variable is how much is standing near the thing being sprayed. An empty house and an occupied one of the same size can differ by half again, because the masking does not scale down. Ask the painter what the quote assumes about occupancy. That single assumption moves the figure more than anything else.

The inner suburbs through Norwood, Unley, Prospect and Goodwood carry a specific complication, which is narrow allotments with neighbouring houses close enough that drift management dominates the planning. Newer estates and rural blocks are considerably simpler. Narrow blocks put neighbouring property within easy drift range, which lifts the containment requirement on every exterior job. Budget for that rather than treating it as an extra.

Regional South Australia

Country spray work is often easier than metropolitan work, because the sites are more open and there is less nearby to protect. Larger blocks mean fewer neighbours within drift range and less containment. The trade-off is travel, which is why bundling work into one visit matters more outside Adelaide. Ask when the operator is next working in your area.

Rural fencing is where regional spraying earns its keep. A long run of post and rail or paling fence with open paddock either side has no drift risk and no masking, so the method delivers its full advantage. Sheds and farm buildings are the other natural fit, particularly large steel structures where brushing would be impractical at any sensible cost. The Barossa, Clare, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and Riverland wine districts generate specialised spray work in production areas, where hygienic wash down resistant coatings are applied to walls and ceilings and the program has to fit around the vintage calendar. The constraint in the far west and north is availability rather than conditions, since fewer contractors carry the equipment and travel a long way to use it. Grouping several structures into one visit makes a trip viable that any single item would not.

When Brush and Roll Is the Better Choice

A good spray painter will sometimes tell you not to spray, and that advice is worth more than a quote. Spray application suits particular jobs very well and suits others poorly, and a contractor willing to talk you out of the more expensive method is demonstrating something useful about how they work. Knowing the cases yourself means you can raise it first. Take that advice seriously rather than reading it as reluctance.

A single room in an occupied house is the clearest example. The masking and protection required for spray application does not scale down, so spraying one bedroom costs nearly what spraying three would and delivers no visible advantage on a flat wall in diffuse light. Brush and roll is faster, cheaper and produces an equivalent result on that surface. Most painters will quote it as brush and roll without being asked.

Touch-up and patch work is another. Spray cannot be feathered into an existing finish the way a roller can, so repairing a damaged section of wall generally means coating the full wall to a corner regardless of method, and on a small repair the setup cost dominates. Painting to the nearest corner is the reliable answer either way, and on a small repair the setup cost dominates whichever method is used. Ask for both to be priced if you are unsure.

Occupied houses with furniture, floor coverings and belongings in place tilt the balance the same way. Everything not being painted has to be sealed off rather than simply covered, and the risk of overspray reaching something it should not is real. Where the household cannot vacate, rolling is usually the sensible answer. Where a vacancy is possible, timing the work to it changes the economics completely.

Textured surfaces and ceilings in flat finishes gain very little from spraying beyond speed. The texture hides applicator marks entirely and flat paint shows none, so the advantage that justifies the setup on joinery simply is not present. Paying a spray premium there buys time rather than appearance, which may still be worth it on a large area but should be a conscious choice. On a large ceiling area the speed may still justify it, but it should be a conscious choice rather than a default.

What to Look Out For

Ask whether spraying is actually the right method for your job, and take a recommendation to brush seriously. On a complex occupied site brushing is frequently faster and cheaper once masking is counted. Get the masking scope in writing, including what the contractor protects and what you are expected to move. This single clarification prevents most disputes in this trade.

Verify public liability cover with a certificate of currency before work starts, not after something is marked. Overspray damage to a vehicle is expensive and it is the most likely claim on a spray job. Ask about neighbouring property specifically, including cars, solar panels, pools and gardens, and confirm the neighbours will be notified before the day rather than on it. Accept a weather postponement without argument. A contractor who calls off a windy afternoon is protecting your finish and someone else's car, and pressuring them to proceed shifts the risk onto you.

Ask about back rolling on porous and textured exteriors. It is the step most often dropped under time pressure and its absence is invisible until the coating fails. Finally, check the licence. Painting and decorating is defined as building work in South Australia and anyone contracting to carry it out must hold a building work contractor's licence issued by Consumer and Business Services, with no dollar threshold, and the licence can be limited to painting and decorating.

What to Look for in a Quote in SA

A spray painting quote worth comparing states the method, the masking, the product and the conditions. Specifically: which surfaces are being sprayed and which are being brushed, the equipment type, the product and the number of coats with the spreading rate implied, whether back rolling is included on porous or textured surfaces, exactly what masking and protection is provided and what the client is expected to move, how neighbouring property will be protected and whether neighbours will be notified, what happens if weather delays the job, the access method, and confirmation of public liability cover. When you enquire, describe the site rather than just the surface. Say what is nearby, including driveways, vehicles, pools, solar panels on your roof and adjacent roofs, gardens and the distance to the neighbouring house. Say whether the property will be occupied and whether anything can be moved. That detail changes the quote more than the square metres do.

Get three quotes and check whether all three propose the same method, because a sprayed quote and a brushed quote are not comparable on price alone and either may be the right answer for your site. Keep the product details and colour codes with your records, and note which surfaces were sprayed and which were brushed, because the next contractor will want to know what they are matching and how it was applied. You will also find interior painting contractors here for the work that suits a brush. If one proposes spray and two propose brush, ask each of them why, since the reasoning tells you more than the price does.