Timber Cladding Fitting Services QLD 2026 - Get Quotes

Species, Durability and What Survives Queensland

Australian timbers are rated for natural durability above ground on a four class scale, and that rating is the first thing to establish about any species being proposed. Class one timbers are the most durable, class four the least, and the rating describes the heartwood's resistance to decay rather than the sapwood, which is why grade and how the board was cut matter alongside species. A durable species installed badly still fails, and a less durable species treated to the right hazard class and coated properly performs perfectly well. Species is therefore one input among several rather than the answer on its own.

Spotted gum and blackbutt carry most Queensland hardwood cladding work and both deserve their popularity. Spotted gum brings colour variation from pale brown through to deep red with distinctive markings, blackbutt runs a more even honey gold, and both are hard, durable and widely stocked through Queensland merchants. Their density is also the reason they need pre-drilling and stainless fasteners rather than being treated like softwood. Expect somewhere between eighty five and a hundred and eighty dollars per square metre for supply depending on grade and profile. Both grey down beautifully if left uncoated, which is a legitimate design decision rather than neglect. Their density is also why the fixing rules on this page matter more with these species than with any other.

Cypress deserves more attention than it gets in this state. Queensland and New South Wales cypress is naturally resistant to termite attack, which on a wall in the country's highest termite pressure band is a genuine advantage rather than a marketing line, and it is lighter and easier to work than the dense hardwoods. The colour runs pale with prominent knots, which suits some designs and not others, and it is less dimensionally stable than the eucalypts so the fitting method matters more. Supply sits around sixty to a hundred and fifteen dollars per square metre. Owners who like the look get a material advantage along with it. Cypress also holds its knots visibly, so a wall in it reads as timber rather than as a manufactured profile.

Western red cedar is the traditional choice for a reason and the most expensive mainstream option. It is remarkably stable, meaning it moves very little through wet and dry cycles, it is light to handle, it takes a coating well and it has a warmth that the eucalypts do not. Against that it is soft enough to dent and mark easily, it is not durable enough to leave unprotected in a demanding position, and its price at a hundred and ten to two hundred and forty dollars per square metre puts it above most budgets for a whole house. Cedar rewards sheltered and feature applications more than fully exposed elevations. Cedar is also very unforgiving of galvanised fixings, which stain it quickly and permanently.

Treated pine and modified timbers cover the value and technical ends of the market. Pine profiles treated to hazard class three are the least expensive route into a timber wall at thirty five to seventy dollars per square metre, suited to painting rather than clear finishes, and they need the treatment to match the exposure. Thermally modified and chemically modified timbers, cooked or treated to change the wood itself rather than coating it, offer improved stability and durability at prices between hardwood and cedar. Both are legitimate and both need their specification confirmed. Check which hazard class any treated product carries, since it tells you what exposure it was made for. A product treated for a sheltered position will not last in a fully exposed one regardless of the coating over it.

Merbau remains common and warrants one specific caution. It is durable, readily available and inexpensive relative to Australian hardwoods, and it leaches tannins heavily for the first year or two, which produces dark staining on anything below it including render, paving, brickwork and painted surfaces. Where merbau is used, the surfaces beneath need protecting during and after installation, and washing down early in the weathering period is worth doing. Sourcing varies between suppliers, so it is worth asking whether the stock carries responsible forestry certification. Merbau remains a reasonable choice, and all of this is easier to plan for than to remedy.

Profiles, Orientation and Setout

Profile decides how water leaves the wall and how the finished surface reads. Shiplap and its variants lap or interlock so each board sheds onto the one below, weatherboard and chamferboard profiles do the same in the traditional Queensland language covered on the weatherboard replacement page, and square edge boards with deliberate gaps produce the contemporary open joint look that relies entirely on what sits behind them, usually a drained cavity over a membrane in the way the fibre cement and panel pages describe. Board and batten uses wide boards with narrow strips over the joints, which suits vertical arrangements and rural styles. Each profile has its own fixing rule and its own drainage logic. Choosing a look without understanding its drainage is how the contemporary profiles get into trouble. Establish what happens to water that gets through an open joint before settling on that profile.

Horizontal fitting is the default in Queensland and it is the easier of the two to get right. Boards lap downward, water runs off the face and out of the laps, battens run vertically behind so any water reaching the cavity drains straight down, and the whole arrangement forgives a great deal. Setout starts at the bottom with a packer or starter strip to set the angle of the first board, and every board above inherits that first line. Checking level every few courses rather than at the end is what keeps a long wall honest. The eye reads a wandering board line from across the street. Starting from a string line rather than from the existing wall is worth the extra half hour.

Vertical fitting looks striking and asks more of the installer. Boards run up the wall, so the battens behind them have to run across it, and battens laid that way dam the drainage route unless they are notched, gapped or covered by a second layer that restores a clear vertical path. Skipping that step is the single most common failure on vertical timber walls, and it shows up as rot behind the boards years before anything appears on the face. Ask specifically how the cavity drains on a vertical installation. An installer who describes counter battens has done it properly before. One who has not thought about it will discover the problem after the boards are on.

Board width changes the fixing rule and owners rarely hear about it. Wide boards move more across their width than narrow ones, so a wide board fixed twice across its width is restrained at both edges and will cup or split as it moves, while the same board fixed once allows the movement to happen. Manufacturers and timber associations publish the widths at which the rule changes, and a competent fitter knows them for the profile in hand. This is precisely the sort of detail that separates a carpenter who fits cladding regularly from one who does it occasionally. Ask how many fixings per board and why. The answer should reference the board width rather than habit.

Setout planning before the first board saves both money and appearance. Working out where board joints land, staggering them between courses, planning around windows and doors so a course does not finish with a sliver, and deciding where the wall starts and stops all happen on paper rather than on the wall. Ordering length to suit the elevation reduces both waste and joints. Good fitters also dry lay a section to check the look before committing. Ten minutes of planning removes most of the compromises that otherwise appear at the last course. Ordering an extra length or two also avoids a fortnight waiting on a single board.

Coating Before Fixing: The Step That Decides Everything

Every board has six faces and only one of them is ever visible again once the wall is up. The front gets coated because everybody can see it, and the back, the two edges and the two ends frequently never get coated at all, which is how water enters a board that looks perfectly finished from the footpath. End grain is the worst offender, since cut ends drink moisture along the grain far faster than any face does, and every board on a wall has two of them. Sealing all six faces before a board is fixed is the single highest value habit in timber cladding.

The mechanism behind it is worth understanding, because it explains the rest of this page. Timber moves as it takes up and gives off moisture, and a board sealed on one face only absorbs from the back while the front holds, which sets up the differential that causes cupping, warping and eventually coating failure on the visible side. Sealing both faces equalises that behaviour, so the board moves evenly and stays flat. Cost runs $18 to $40 per square metre as its own line, which is trivial set against the material. Ask for it explicitly, because it disappears from quotes exactly because nobody can check it afterwards.

Every cut made on site needs the same treatment and this is where discipline shows. Boards get cut for length, around windows, at corners and at every end, and each cut creates fresh unsealed end grain. Competent fitters keep a tin and a brush at the saw station and coat each cut as it happens, which takes seconds and is invisible once the board is up. Crews who cut all day and coat nothing have created dozens of entry points. Look for the tin at the saw when you visit the site. Its absence tells you what is happening to every cut end on the job.

Acclimatisation belongs in the same conversation and gets skipped for scheduling reasons. Timber delivered from a yard carries whatever moisture content it had there, and fixing it immediately on a Queensland site means it then moves substantially in place, opening gaps or pinching joints depending on which direction it goes. Stacking the boards on site with spacers between them for several days lets them reach local conditions before anything is committed. That delay is inconvenient and cheaper than the alternative. Check that the program allows for it rather than assuming it does.

Choosing between oil, stain and paint is a maintenance decision more than an appearance one. Penetrating oils keep the timber looking natural and need recoating on a short cycle, particularly on Queensland's western and northern elevations where ultraviolet is relentless. Solid stains and paints last considerably longer between coats and hide the grain to varying degrees. Leaving hardwood to grey naturally is also legitimate and involves no coating at all, though it is a decision rather than a default. The exterior house painting page covers systems, and deck staining and oiling covers the oil side.

Fasteners, Pre-Drilling and Rust Streaks

Fastener choice on Australian hardwood is not a preference and getting it wrong is visible within two years. Dense hardwoods including spotted gum, blackbutt, ironbark and merbau contain tannins that react with galvanised coatings and with steel generally, producing black or rust coloured streaks bleeding down the board from every fixing. Stainless steel fasteners avoid the reaction entirely, for something in the order of three to eight per cent on top of a typical fixing bill. On a coastal Queensland site stainless is doubly justified, since salt attacks galvanised fixings on its own timetable. The extra cost of stainless is small and the streaking it prevents cannot be undone.

Pre-drilling near board ends prevents the splits that otherwise appear immediately or within a season. Dense hardwood does not compress around a nail the way pine does, so driving a fastener close to an end without a pilot hole levers the fibres apart, and the split either shows at once or opens as the board moves. Competent fitters pre-drill within a set distance of every end as a matter of course. This slows the work, which is precisely why it gets skipped on a price driven job.

Walking a finished wall and looking at the board ends tells an owner a great deal without any technical knowledge. Splits congregate there when nobody pre-drilled, so a wall with clean ends along every course is one where somebody made a pilot hole every time. It is the easiest installation fault to spot unaided and among the most telling. Ask to see an older wall the fitter did and look at the ends on that one.

Fixing count follows board width, and this is the rule broken most often of all. Restrain a board along both edges and it has nowhere to go, so rising moisture content drives it to either cup off the wall or tear between the fasteners, and the wider the board the more force there is behind that. Narrower boards tolerate two fixings while wider ones need a single central fixing so the board can move around it. Timber suppliers and industry associations publish the crossover widths for each profile.

A fitter who can state the rule for the board being installed is telling you they work from a specification rather than from memory. One who says it depends on how it looks is working from habit, which produces a wall that behaves like a guess. The rule exists because timber moves with moisture, and that movement is indifferent to appearance. It costs nothing to ask the question before the first board goes up.

Fastener head treatment and placement finish the appearance. Nails driven flush rather than punched below the surface, heads consistently placed so the lines read evenly along the wall, and secret fixing where the profile allows it all contribute to a wall that looks deliberate. Overdriven heads crush the fibres and create a dish that holds water at every fixing. Where a fastener must be filled, the filler needs to suit both the timber and the coating. Consistency matters as much as concealment on a long elevation.

Cyclonic Queensland applies its own schedule to all of this. From around Bundaberg north, wind classification governs fastener type and spacing along with batten sizing, and the schedule for an exposed coastal site differs substantially from a sheltered inland one. Quotes that name the wind classification are pricing the right house, which is the sorting question this series keeps returning to. Corrosion and wind requirements compound in the same coastal band. Northern fitters handle both as routine practice.

The Cavity Behind the Boards

Timber needs to dry from both faces, which is why a drained and ventilated cavity behind the boards is not optional on this material. Battens fixed over the wall wrap hold the cladding off the membrane, creating a gap that lets any water reaching it drain away and lets air move so both faces of every board can dry. Boards fixed directly onto a membrane trap moisture against the back face indefinitely, which is the fastest way to destroy an expensive wall. The layers and their sequence are covered in full on the exterior wall cladding page and apply here without modification.

Openings at the top and bottom of the cavity are what make it work. An enclosed gap with no air movement is a humid box rather than a drying cavity, so the base needs a vented closure that lets water out and air in while keeping vermin and insects from getting in, and the top needs an equivalent exit. Purpose made vented closures exist for exactly this and cost very little. Fitters who use them produce walls that dry, and fitters who seal the cavity produce walls that do not.

Ask what closes the bottom of the cavity, because the answer is short and revealing. A vented closure costs very little and does two jobs at once, letting water and air out while keeping insects and vermin from getting in. An unvented strip of timber or a bead of sealant along the base does neither. This is the sort of detail that never appears on a quote and decides how long the wall lasts.

A flashing, which is a shaped strip of metal fitted at a junction so water gets directed back out over the face of the cladding instead of behind it, decides whether water ever reaches the cavity in any quantity. Window and door heads, sills, jambs, junctions with other materials, the bottom of the wall and any junction where cladding meets a roof all need flashing that sends water out over the cladding face rather than behind it. The single most common source of hidden rot in a timber wall is a window head without a flashing or with one that was installed the wrong way round. Where windows are being replaced in the same program, coordinating both means every flashing is designed once. That coordination is covered on the house recladding page.

Ground clearance at the base of the wall matters more with timber than with any other cladding. Boards close to soil, mulch, paving or a garden bed wick moisture continuously and sit in the zone termites use, and no coating survives that position for long. Keeping the bottom of the cladding well clear of finished ground, sloping the surface away and resisting the urge to build a garden bed against the wall costs nothing at design stage. Owners who plant against a new timber wall undo a considerable amount of careful work. Splashback from hard paving is the other overlooked source at that level. A strip of gravel or a drainage channel along the base solves it cheaply.

Bushfire Mapped Land and Termites

Bushfire prone land covers a substantial portion of Queensland and it constrains which timbers can be used externally. On land carrying a bushfire attack level, the standard governing construction in those areas lists specific timbers that may be used outside at each level, with several Australian hardwoods appearing on that list precisely because their density and behaviour under radiant heat perform better than lighter species. Blackbutt, spotted gum, red ironbark, silvertop ash, turpentine and merbau are among the timbers recognised for this purpose. Which apply to your rating is a question for your certifier or designer rather than a supplier.

Find out what rating applies to the property before anybody settles on a species. A design settled on cedar or treated pine and then assessed as requiring a listed species means going back to the start, which is both slower and more expensive than asking first. Where no bushfire rating applies, the species choice opens right up. Vegetation management around a rated property also matters alongside materials, and the bushfire vegetation clearance page covers that side. Fire safety information for Queensland households is published by Queensland Fire and Emergency Services.

Termites are the constant Queensland consideration on any timber wall. The state sits in the country's highest pressure band, the subterranean species work through hidden galleries, and cladding that reaches the ground hands them the sheltered approach they look for. Cypress carries genuine natural resistance, treated stock performs to whatever its treatment provides, and the durable eucalypts hold off decay far better than they hold off termites. A management system designed for the building is still required on top of any of that. The frame behind the cladding is the real target rather than the cladding itself. Protecting the frame is what the management system is for, whatever the wall is wearing.

Inspection access is the practical control and it depends on what the builder leaves visible. Management installed to the Australian Standard relies on a clear strip at the slab edge or around the stumps that somebody can walk around and examine for mud trails, and cladding taken down to ground level, paving laid hard against the wall or a garden bed built up against it all defeat it. Keeping that zone clear is free during construction and awkward afterwards. A current termite inspection before and after a cladding project is worth having, and termite damage repairs handle anything found in the frame.

Maintenance, Recoating and Letting It Grey

Timber cladding needs attention on a cycle and Queensland shortens every interval. Penetrating oils on an exposed elevation commonly need redoing within a year or two, while solid stains and paints stretch a good deal further, and the walls facing west and north always fall due ahead of the sheltered ones. Owners who recoat before the finish has broken down do a wash and a fresh coat, while owners who wait until it has failed do preparation as well, which is where the cost sits. That difference is the whole maintenance argument on this material. Booking the recoat by elevation rather than all at once spreads both cost and disruption. It also means the wall that needs attention gets it when it needs it.

Letting hardwood grey is a legitimate choice and worth understanding before committing. Uncoated durable hardwood weathers to a silver grey over a year or two, which many owners prefer and which eliminates the recoating cycle entirely, though the greying is uneven where shelter varies and going back to a coated finish later requires substantial preparation. Durability rather than appearance is what makes it viable, so the species has to suit an uncoated life. A trial section left uncoated for a season tells you whether you like the result. Decide this at the outset rather than a year in.

Washing down is the maintenance nobody schedules and the cheapest item on the list. Dust, pollen, salt and general grime accumulate on a timber wall and hold moisture against the coating, and an annual wash with water and a soft brush extends every coating interval measurably. Pressure washing is the wrong tool on timber, since it drives water into the grain and raises the surface. Gentle washing on a warm day is the whole technique, and pressure cleaning is better reserved for hard surfaces. Tannin bleed on new hardwood also washes off far more easily in the first months than later. Protecting paving and render below a new merbau wall through that first period is worth doing.

Spot repairs on timber cladding are genuinely straightforward, which is one of the material's real advantages. A damaged or rotted board can be cut out and replaced individually, unlike sheet products where a patch is visible, and a fitter can match profile and species on most walls with a short lead time. Putting aside several offcuts and a couple of full lengths at the time makes that trivially easy years later. The cladding repairs page covers board replacement, and carpentry services covers finding the trade. Replacing one board before the rot travels is the difference between a morning and an elevation.

What Timber Cladding Fitting Costs in Queensland

Supply and fitting are worth pricing separately because they move independently. Timber supply runs from thirty five dollars per square metre for treated pine profiles to two hundred and forty for western red cedar, with Australian hardwoods in the middle at eighty five to a hundred and eighty. Fitting labour including battens typically adds eighty five to a hundred and seventy dollars per square metre depending on the profile, the orientation and how straightforward the wall is. Vertical installations cost more than horizontal because of the counter batten work. Complex elevations with many openings cost more again.

The coating lines are the ones owners most often miss when comparing. Sealing all faces before fixing runs $18 to $40 per square metre, and the finish coats afterwards add $30 to $65, which together approach the fitting labour on a cheaper timber. A quote showing only supply and fix is not the number you will pay to have a finished wall. Ask for both coating stages priced as their own lines. Stainless fixings add a few per cent more and are worth every cent on any hardwood.

Whole wall figures help more than rates when budgeting. A single elevation of around forty square metres in Australian hardwood, fully coated and fitted horizontally with stainless fixings, commonly lands somewhere between nine and sixteen thousand dollars complete. The same elevation in treated pine finished with paint runs considerably less, and cedar or a vertical arrangement considerably more. Scaffolding for upper storeys sits on top and is priced by the elevation rather than the area. Those figures assume sound framing behind and a membrane already in place. Where they are not, the reclad sequence rather than the cladding rate governs the budget.

Owners are often surprised that a single elevation in timber can carry the same paperwork obligations as a much larger job. Once the contract value passes the statutory figure a licensed contractor is required, and the insurance premium attached to the work should be shown as paid rather than described as being arranged. The QBCC keeps a public register that confirms a licence in well under a minute. Guarantees on the goods and the workmanship sit under Australian Consumer Law and are administered by the ACCC. Neither check is a formality on a wall that will be exposed to weather for decades.

Two details are specific to buying timber. The invoice should name the species and the grade rather than describing the product generically, since hardwood covers a wide range of prices and appearances. Licensing and approval information for building work is indexed at ABLIS, with your council the authority on any overlay affecting the elevation. Keep the delivery docket with the contract, because it records what actually arrived.

Arguments about timber walls turn almost entirely on things nobody can see once the boards are up. Whether the backs and the cut ends were sealed, whether the cavity drains, whether the battens were arranged as described: none of it can be established after the fact without pulling boards off. That makes images captured during the work the only evidence that will ever exist. Put any complaint to the contractor in writing before anything else, since the formal avenues expect that step to have happened, and a domestic dispute left unresolved can reach QCAT in time. Hardly any board job travels that distance.

Around Queensland

Brisbane and the southeast supply the deepest market for timber cladding work, with merchants stocking the common species and profiles and a good supply of fitters who do this regularly rather than occasionally. Planning overlays across the older inner suburbs push street facing elevations toward traditional profiles, which suits timber well, and the Queenslander home painting page covers period appropriate schemes. Steep blocks add access cost on upper elevations. Feature walls and entry elements in hardwood are a steady application on contemporary work. Owners here have the widest species choice and the shortest lead times. Three quotes on the same specification are easy to obtain in this market.

Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast conditions make the fastener and coating decisions sharper. Salt laden air attacks galvanised fixings on its own schedule regardless of tannin reaction, so stainless is specification rather than upgrade within a few kilometres of the water, and coating intervals shorten under combined salt and ultraviolet load. Humidity also raises the value of a properly drained and vented cavity. Beachfront and canal front positions sit at the harsh end of that scale. Local fitters price all of it as ordinary practice.

From Bundaberg north, cyclonic classification governs fastener type, spacing and batten sizing, and the wet season governs the calendar. Timber walls also work harder in the tropics, where humidity swings are wide and coatings age faster on every elevation rather than just the western one. Booking installation into the dry months avoids fitting boards that are wetter than they will ever be again. Species availability narrows a little further north and freight becomes a real line. Northern fitters treat the engineering and the calendar as routine.

Toowoomba, the Darling Downs and the western centres bring the widest daily temperature ranges in the state, which works timber harder than coastal sameness does. Boards move more between a cold night and a hot afternoon, which raises the value of acclimatisation and correct fixing count, and cypress performs notably well out here. Dust accumulates on walls and shortens coating life unless washed. Freight on timber matters because it is heavy, so batch ordering is worthwhile. Regional fitters price travel as an honest line and owners should expect it.

Choosing a Timber Cladding Fitter

This is carpentry rather than general building and the difference in outcome is substantial. A carpenter who fits cladding regularly knows the fixing rules by board width, pre-drills without being asked, keeps a tin at the saw and can explain how the cavity drains, while a capable general builder may do most of that and not all of it. Find out what they fitted most recently and which species it was. The specificity of the answer tells you a great deal.

Photographs of finished walls are worth more here than references. Look at board lines across a long elevation, board ends for splits, fixing lines for consistency, the base detail where the wall meets the ground, and the corners and window surrounds where the detailing shows. A fitter with a folder of timber walls has done enough of them to have a method. Ask to see one that has been up for several years rather than only fresh work. Timber shows its installation quality over time rather than on handover day.

Make the quote carry its method rather than a rate. Species and grade named, profile and orientation, batten and cavity arrangement with how it drains, coating of all faces before fixing as its own line, fastener type and material, fixing count per board, pre-drilling, flashings, ground clearance at the base, finish coats and who applies them, wind classification where relevant, and the acclimatisation allowance in the program. A quote answering that list describes a wall built to last. A rate per square metre describes a delivery of boards and some labour.

What to Look Out For

The clearest warning sign is a fitter who leaves all coating to the painter afterwards. Boards fixed uncoated will never have their backs, edges or ends sealed, and the wall then behaves as described earlier in this page, cupping and failing from a direction nobody inspects. Ask when the boards get coated and listen for all six faces before fixing. That answer alone separates the field.

Be cautious about galvanised fixings on hardwood, regardless of what they cost to change. Tannin reaction produces streaking that cannot be cleaned off and cannot be coated over convincingly, and the only real remedy is replacing the fixings and the affected boards. The premium for stainless is small enough that no honest reason exists to avoid it on spotted gum, blackbutt, ironbark or merbau. Confirm the fastener material in writing. Coastal sites have a second reason for the same decision.

Watch for a vertical installation with no counter battens described. Boards running vertically need battens running horizontally, and horizontal battens block the drainage path unless the arrangement deliberately keeps a vertical route open. A quote for a vertical wall that says nothing about how the cavity drains has not engaged with the main technical problem of that orientation. Ask the question directly and expect a clear answer. Rot behind a vertical wall is invisible until it is extensive.

Treat boards fixed straight off the delivery truck as a scheduling decision made against the wall. Timber that has not acclimatised moves substantially in place, which opens gaps, pinches joints and stresses fixings within the first season. Confirm that the program allows days for the stack to sit on site with spacers. A fitter who builds that into the program has thought about the material rather than only the labour.

Put a folder together and store it where the house papers live. It wants the species and grade with the supplier name, the profile and where it came from, both coating products with their colour references, what the fasteners were made of, images of the battens, the cavity and the back coated boards taken before the wall closed up, and a few spare lengths kept flat in the shed. Timber is a material that rewards knowing its own history, since the next repair in ten years starts from that information. Anyone conducting building inspections on the property will treat the file as evidence the wall was built with care.

How to Get Comparable Quotes

Send photographs of every elevation involved, the wall area and heights, a note on orientation so the ultraviolet exposure is understood, and your postcode so wind, salt and bushfire context arrives with the enquiry. Say which species you are considering and whether the look is coated or weathered, since those change the recommendation. Mention whether the framing and membrane are already in place or whether this is part of a larger reclad. Note the storey count so access can be priced. Those details turn an estimate into a price.

Ask every fitter the same structured set of questions so the answers line up. Species and grade, profile and orientation, cavity and batten arrangement, coating of all faces before fixing, fastener material, fixings per board, pre-drilling, flashings, base clearance, finish coats, wind classification and the acclimatisation allowance. Add the coating timing question to every conversation. A uniform brief quietly filters for fitters working to a method rather than to habit, which is the sorting mechanism this whole series relies on.

Set the methods side by side before you look at the bottom lines. Where two fitters have named the same species, the same coating stages, the same fastener material and the same cavity arrangement, whatever separates their prices is genuine competitive difference. Where one lands lower by precisely the back coating, the stainless fasteners and the counter battens, it has priced a different wall, and the earlier sections describe what that wall looks like by its third wet season. Pay for the approach and the timber holds up for as long as you keep coating it.